The trailer bunks on my one year old 2005 M trailer are turning to mush and have to be replaced. The front bunk broke loose the last time I retrieved the boat. While making an emergency repair, I discovered that the bunk was completely rotten. It litterally crumbeled in my hands. The trailer has been exposed to salt water for a dozen or so launchings and retrievals. My Mac is 200 miles away. Does anyone have the lengths for the rear, center and front bunks. I would like to cut the 2X4s to length and seal them before I go down to the boat.
Is there any reason to not use "Trex" type composite 2x4s instead of treated lumber? If I use the composite material, sealing should not be an issue. I plan to use larger galvanized bolts and fender washers that are recessed. This should keep the bolt heads from pulling through the bunks when the Mac hits a little hard. The larger galvanized bolts should last longer than the rust prone trailer. I try to keep the rust at bay with periodic painting. I always spray the trailer with "Salt Away" after retrieval. Comments and suggestions are welcomed. Thanks to all of you. I do not post often but I read almost every post daily.
Trailer Bunks on M Trailer
When I replaced the front bunks, I went back with much larger bunks, to help guide the bow down into the Vee. I think the standard bow bunks are ~1'. I went back with ~2'.
These had been secured with just flush head bolts. I replaced them with carriage bolts. I didn't countersink the bolt heads, the 'normal' way. Rather, I just cranked on the nut, pulling the bolt head down through the board. I seemed to get the job done. Finally, I wrapped the bunks in the carpet and stapled the carpet in place...
There are also other bunks, near the fenders which look like ~1'. I know there are also some longer ones, but I can't picture them...
These had been secured with just flush head bolts. I replaced them with carriage bolts. I didn't countersink the bolt heads, the 'normal' way. Rather, I just cranked on the nut, pulling the bolt head down through the board. I seemed to get the job done. Finally, I wrapped the bunks in the carpet and stapled the carpet in place...
There are also other bunks, near the fenders which look like ~1'. I know there are also some longer ones, but I can't picture them...
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K9Kampers
- Admiral
- Posts: 2441
- Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:32 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: NH, former 26X owner
In addition to the Trex idea, a material I've worked with in the past for a heavy duty dock bumper is called, if I remember correctly, Schlagle. It is a dense black rubber that is inches thick, can be cut with a power saw & was thru bolted to the marina docks & tugboat. Very durable stuff. Cost-???
I'm considering the same thing for my '01 X trailer bunks. On my first retrieval, apparently the forward V-bunks were too high and the boat bow pushed one off & bent the 1/4-20 bolts. Since repaired & with the trailer deeper on the ramp, no problem, but I'm thinking of a mod to add a roller just aft of that bunk - I think somebody else did this on a Mac trailer but I can't seem to find it in the archives.
I'm considering the same thing for my '01 X trailer bunks. On my first retrieval, apparently the forward V-bunks were too high and the boat bow pushed one off & bent the 1/4-20 bolts. Since repaired & with the trailer deeper on the ramp, no problem, but I'm thinking of a mod to add a roller just aft of that bunk - I think somebody else did this on a Mac trailer but I can't seem to find it in the archives.
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Win
- Deckhand
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 2:00 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Birmingham AL 05 M 60HP Yamaha
K9Kampers, I plan to add the roller also.
My main purpose for posting was to alert everyone to the premature disintegration and to hopefully obtain the length of the rear bunks. If my rear and center bunks are as bad as my front ones, the Mac will be sitting directly on the steel trailer soon. The weight of the boat will crush the rotted wood.
My main purpose for posting was to alert everyone to the premature disintegration and to hopefully obtain the length of the rear bunks. If my rear and center bunks are as bad as my front ones, the Mac will be sitting directly on the steel trailer soon. The weight of the boat will crush the rotted wood.
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parrothead
- First Officer
- Posts: 426
- Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 7:25 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Former vessel: '05 M "Blue Heaven" - Nissan 50 TLDI --- Now owner of a Gemini 3400
trailer. The front pair are 10.5", both the center and rear pairs are 30" (total of 4 that length), and the little ones on the sides at the rear are 7" (2 that length).Hey Guys,
I put a roller just aft the forward vee bunk. Makes a big difference. The boat can be pushed off a little when launching and it then just rolls off. No need to rev the engine hard for launching or retrieving. With the roller, the winch pulls the boat up easily, no risk of over stressing the fiberglass around the eyebolt etc. I put a 6 inch wide roller on mine, but if I do it again, it will be wider, perhaps 2 x 6 inch rollers side by side. The narrow roller requires somebody to position the bow correctly. A wider setup would let the bow self centre as it strikes the Vee berth. I galvanised the trailer as well - everyday, I'm still glad for doing that job - 100% saltwater use for me.
Cheers
Craig
I put a roller just aft the forward vee bunk. Makes a big difference. The boat can be pushed off a little when launching and it then just rolls off. No need to rev the engine hard for launching or retrieving. With the roller, the winch pulls the boat up easily, no risk of over stressing the fiberglass around the eyebolt etc. I put a 6 inch wide roller on mine, but if I do it again, it will be wider, perhaps 2 x 6 inch rollers side by side. The narrow roller requires somebody to position the bow correctly. A wider setup would let the bow self centre as it strikes the Vee berth. I galvanised the trailer as well - everyday, I'm still glad for doing that job - 100% saltwater use for me.
Cheers
Craig
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LOUIS B HOLUB
- Admiral
- Posts: 1315
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 7:40 am
- Location: 1999 Mac-X, Nissan 50 HP, Kemah, TX, "Holub Boat"
...I just dont understand why ROGER won't do a better job with Mac Trailers...bunks should be treated lumber so they would last longer 
And surely, the trailers could be "dipped" or "painted" with a better non corrosive solution.
My former boat, a 26S, had a trailer that was dipped or sprayed with some sorta "plastic" stuff by the former owner. Ive since sold it, but wish I knew what was used on that trailer. It was very resistant to rust.
And surely, the trailers could be "dipped" or "painted" with a better non corrosive solution.
My former boat, a 26S, had a trailer that was dipped or sprayed with some sorta "plastic" stuff by the former owner. Ive since sold it, but wish I knew what was used on that trailer. It was very resistant to rust.