bottom paint and epoxy touch-up

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

I have some areas of the hull where the bottom paint consistently scrapes off. I'm not sure if there was an epoxy barrier coat put on when it was originally bottom painted or not.

My question is, has anyone ever used any sort of epoxy as a touch-up, to make the bottom paint stick better and not rub off so easily?

I'm probably going to paint the whole bottom this summer. I don't want to scrape off all the paint and start over, but I want a better way for trouble spots not to get bare so quickly. My idea was to put some epoxy on the bad spots, then go over the whole thing with bottom paint.

[craiglaforce]

Mine does the same thing. I think the previous owner that did the original bottom paint job neglected to removed the residual mold release wax from the hull. Each spring I scrape off around those areas, wipe it with a rag and paint thinner, then reapply bottom paint. It gets a little better each year. Sure would have been easier if the clod hopping dufus had dewaxed the hull before painting it.

[Jim Bunnell]

we racers are pretty anal about having perfect bottoms

....just think about it....

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

I used to use Petit Trinidad on my O'dayand it is a great bottom paint (especially the red), but I thought it was ablative. To tell you the truth, that stuff is so expensive, I usually shop the WM half price type sales. I have a gallon of Interlux Ultra that I got for half price and it was still 80-90 bucks for a gallon. I'll have to use that up first. I think the harder paints could be a problem in Florida though. We need the paint made for heavy fouling.

Are the trouble spots due to trailering or beaching?

Probably a bit of both I would guess. I don't do much trailering lately, I leave it in the water most of the time, I mostly use the trailer to clean/paint the bottom these days. I expect everytime it goes on or off the trailer, it rubs a bit of the paint off though. With the recent broadside beaching though, I would say that twice as much came off as usual. I usually try to stop in no less than 20 inches of water...but I got tricked by a powerboat wake in a dead calm. The Mac does have a shallow V shape until just behind the CB slot where it flattens out more...I suppose its just hard to keep the paint there along the center...especially if it wasn't applied right in the first place.

I wish I had the time to strip off all the paint, but that sounds like too big of a job. I definitely have a rule about spending a lot more time out sailing that I'm spending maintaining. Thats actually one of the main reasons I traded for a Mac...when I started spending more time maintaining my O'day than sailing it.

Hopefully, if I keep making the bad spots better and keep the bottom off of the sand, it will get better. Maybe I should try sanding the bad spots and applying a primer first.

[Jack O'Brien]

Dimitri:

Do I recall correctly you keep your boat in the water behind your house?

If so, I envy you. Mine is 20 miles from home. But, I digress.

Do a cheap boat lift and skip the paint. http://www.airdock.com/frame_1.htm

It would not be hard to make a half-a** airdock from PVC pipe, scrap conveyor belt, 55 or 30 gallon drums and a low pressure electric air pump. Or buy a junk pontoon boat and use the pontoons. Or buy either a used metal & cable lift or make one. Think of the happy Saturday morning junk yard trips scrounging for parts.

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Jack, cool link. I have actually thought about a lift, but thought that my only options were "conventional" systems which run a lot of money (5-10K). I'd be a bit concerned having an airdock made out of the same material as an inflatable boat. With the harsh sun and marine growth, I doubt it would last 5 years...guess it kind of depends how much they cost.

Interesting suggestion about a junk pontoon boat, might look kinda tacky though. And just how would you propose raising and lowering the makeshift drydock?

[Jack O'Brien]

Each air container (drum, pontoon, culvert with closed ends, whatever) has an open bottom hole and a top hole with a hose to the air pump. Works like a submarine. If ya wanna get fancy, use one or more float valves (like for bilge pumps or basement sump pumps) and one or more air pumps to regulate height of one or more sections.