Leaky X and a wiring question

[hiram6]

Since there's another current thread titled "Leaky M", I thought I'd take a shot at some of my leaks as well. Also a wiring question.

Here are my questions:

Leak 1 I need to remove the aluminum rail on the starboard side of my sliding hatch, the one that holds the lip of the hatch down on the topside of the cabin. I have a leak in one of the mounting screws behnd the light that is over the dinette table. Pic at http://web.mac.com/hirammcdaniel/iWeb/S ... hotos.html You can see a drop of water just hanging there. My question is this, how do I get access to the bottomside of the bolts that are hidden/covered by the head wall? When sitting at the rear dinette seat, the wall behind your head perfectly covers the spot where there should be a pop-off cap to get to one of the bolts for the hatch rail. Am I missing something here?

Leak 2 How do I remove the two black plastic panels from the inside roof around the compression pole? I have a slow leak here as well, and want to narrow down where it's coming from before I start slathering 5200 around my mast.

Okay now the wiring question. I recently added a shore power connection and need to finish fishing wire around to add a couple of GFCI outlets. In running the 14/3 marine cable along the liner on the port side, I know from my searches here on this site that the preferred method is to run cable under the top pliner until you reach the chainplates, and then head down behind the raised area there. My issue is, I can't seem to get past the raised area on the top liner above the galley area. Hard to explain here , but look at one of the last pics here on this page to see my question:http://web.mac.com/hirammcdaniel/iWeb/S ... hotos.html

Thanks in advance for your help. Oh, and by the way, the links above are to my new site. Feel free to look around using the navigation links across the top of the site, and let me know what you think!

[Catigale]

Hiram - I tried to get my shore power wire through that same point for two afternoons unsuccessfully with cord, fish tape, etc....no luck

I eventually came down from the plug, ran along the bottom of the liner inside the boat forward to the chainplate, then back outboard of the inner liner down the chainplate area to the AC distribution panel aft of the galley.

I figured I would tape the AC wire along the bottom of the liner to dress it up, but the Admiral said it looked fine so I never did that.

I was getting leery of damaging the AC cord with all the resistance I was getting in between the liner and deck...a damaged AC line cord is not good on a boat imho.

[kmclemore]

Leak 1How do I get access to the bottomside of the bolts that are hidden/covered by the head wall?

Geez, I thought for sure you could ge to all of them.. I need to go out to my Mac to check.

Leak 2 How do I remove the two black plastic panels from the inside roof around the compression pole?

These just pry off - the factory used double-sided tape on mine. Use a stiff kitchen knife blade (or putty knife) wrapped in masking tape to prevent scratching the liner. I got rid of the tape and used a small dab of clear silicone to stick'em back - makes it easier to pull them off next time.

[Catigale]

Hiram - I would drop that light fixture (with the hanging drop) and have a look under the liner to really focus on finding the leak source

I bet it is no where near the screw where you indicate, but water is coming in and making its way along the liner to the light fixture.

You may only have the one mast leak with water getting into a couple places!!

[hiram6]

Hiram - I would drop that light fixture (with the hanging drop) and have a look under the liner to really focus on finding the leak source

I bet it is no where near the screw where you indicate, but water is coming in and making its way along the liner to the light fixture.

You may only have the one mast leak with water getting into a couple places!!

Actually I have dropped the light before. It is 100% coming from the through-bolt on the end of the hatch rail, the one that has the centerboard block on top. When I took the light off to see inside the liner, you could clearly see the drop form and fall from that one bolt. It must line up with that corner of the interior light, so it always drips from that one corner attachment bolt.

I figure the only way to really do this right (read: do it once) is to completely remove the aluminum rail and reseal all the bolts.

[hiram6]

Leak 1How do I get access to the bottomside of the bolts that are hidden/covered by the head wall?

Geez, I thought for sure you could ge to all of them.. I need to go out to my Mac to check.

Leak 2 How do I remove the two black plastic panels from the inside roof around the compression pole?

These just pry off - the factory used double-sided tape on mine. Use a stiff kitchen knife blade (or putty knife) wrapped in masking tape to prevent scratching the liner. I got rid of the tape and used a small dab of clear silicone to stick'em back - makes it easier to pull them off next time.

I'm 97% sure one of my aluminum rail nuts is hidden. Thanks for the answer on the compression pole panels. I thought that was the case, but didn't want to break them in case there was some top secret fastener hidden in there somewhere. Once cracked a panel I was trying to remove from my car bacause of a hidden screw, which the repair manual didn't mention or count, so now, $300 poorer, I tend to make sure something really does just "pop off".

[Catigale]

I figure the only way to really do this right (read: do it once) is to completely remove the aluminum rail and reseal all the bolts.

Hiram - I would just spin out the one leaking bolt, reseal, and leave the others be...its not unreasonable to think that the assembler just left sealer off the one bolt and that is your only problem. The others will let you know if they want to leak.

[waternwaves]

leak 2

Hiram, mine (96x) were only held in place with adhesive, same as where the post goes to the floor.

[Craig LaForce]

Hiram, I had exactly the same leak under the centerboard block mounting bolt. I simply removed it, put 5200 in there and replaced the fastener. No more leaks.

On the other leak, check the stupid perko electrical thru deck connector.
Mine was leaking. I simply removed it and ran new wiresthorough the hole and globbed 5200 over the hole. I left about 2 feet of wire stick through and use simply twist lock connectors to hook up the mast and then tape the extra wire to the mast with black electrical tape. no more leaks.

[Don T]

Hello,
On my 95X the screw you are talking about is a sheet metal screw. All the others had nylok nuts and washers. I had the exact same leak at the dinette light. It was the screws through the turning block for the centerboard hoist. I would take just those out and check. You will find the deck is sloped under there and the screw may be bent. There may also be a stack of washers. I made nylon spacers with the same angle ground on it so the nut and screw tightened straight. Some 5200 to seal it up.

[hiram6]

Hello,
On my 95X the screw you are talking about is a sheet metal screw. All the others had nylok nuts and washers. I had the exact same leak at the dinette light. It was the screws through the turning block for the centerboard hoist. I would take just those out and check. You will find the deck is sloped under there and the screw may be bent. There may also be a stack of washers. I made nylon spacers with the same angle ground on it so the nut and screw tightened straight. Some 5200 to seal it up.

Don, just to clarify, you're saying the connector "hidden" by the head wall is a screw instead of a bolt/nut, right?

I still may just take both your and others suggestions and remove the centerboard block bolt and 5200 that one to see if it stops the leak. But it would be good to know how to remove the aluminum rail if and when I need to. Sooner or later it will leak somewhere else!!