Problem With Raising&Lowering Wheel At Front Of Trailer
- NiceAft
- Admiral
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- Location: Upper Dublin,PA, USA: 2005M 50hp.Honda4strk.,1979 Phantom Sport Sailboat, 9'Achilles 6HP Merc 4strk
Problem With Raising&Lowering Wheel At Front Of Trailer
First of all, does anyone know the nomenclature for that wheel and post at the front of the trailer? I would like to do a "search" on the problem I am having.
The problem is that when I turn the handle to raise/lower the trailer to/from the hitch ball, when the post, that the wheel is at the end of is at full extension, the gear at the end of the handle starts to slip (not engage the gear it is supposed to turn). If I have someone stand on the end of the tongue and jump up and down, the added weight will help in lowering the trailer to the hitch. It gives grief the other way also.
Anyone else have this problem?
Ray
The problem is that when I turn the handle to raise/lower the trailer to/from the hitch ball, when the post, that the wheel is at the end of is at full extension, the gear at the end of the handle starts to slip (not engage the gear it is supposed to turn). If I have someone stand on the end of the tongue and jump up and down, the added weight will help in lowering the trailer to the hitch. It gives grief the other way also.
Anyone else have this problem?
Ray
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Frank C
I'd have tried Trailer Jack, but that yields 122 hits.
Searching on Nose wheel generates 42 hits. ... reading req'd.
A search on rollpin delivers only one thread:
Trailer Tongue Jack disassembled itself
Tongue Jack delivers a more manageable 32 hits, the one above plus one additional seem on-point.
Your title was a good stab at the search ... sorry, but can't think of many more ways to slice at it.
Searching on Nose wheel generates 42 hits. ... reading req'd.
A search on rollpin delivers only one thread:
Trailer Tongue Jack disassembled itself
Tongue Jack delivers a more manageable 32 hits, the one above plus one additional seem on-point.
Your title was a good stab at the search ... sorry, but can't think of many more ways to slice at it.
- Duane Dunn, Allegro
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You should be able to tell pretty quickly by just poping off the plastic cap and looking inside. If there is a bunch of metal parts and filings you are in trouble. Mine was getting really stiff and was starting to elongate the holes where the crank goes through. I opened it up and added a bunch of grease to everything I could. It's back to being real smooth again and no longer wearing on the sides of the holes. Even so I think I will replace it in the near future. It seems whimpy (like most things on the trailer). Much heavier units don't cost all that much. Too bad they welded it on, I'll have to cut it off.
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Frank C
- kziadie
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I had problems with my jack from it was about 3 months old with it alternatively being stiff and sometimes slipping. It got to the point of being non-operative and I could not move the trailer. Bill from Macgregor sent me a replacement under warranty, but I ended up putting on a $30 Fulton jack from West Marine which clamped on to the tongue and simply removing the guts from the welded on cylinder of the factory unit and leaving the cylinder in place. IMHO the Fulton jack is a far superior and heavier unit, plus I did not have the hassle of cutting of the factory unit and welding the new one. The replacement unit I got from Macgregor is sitting in my garage. Anybody that wants it is welcome to it for the cost of shipping.
Kelly
Kelly
- tangentair
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I had trouble with mine not working under weight, till I started spraying it regularly with white grease (moly?? and that is all I can spell of it), and the plastic top is metal and spot welded on mine. I do agree that it is under rated for the weight, that is why I toss concrete blocks under the tongue when parked.
no matter how I word that first sentence it sounds obscene.
no matter how I word that first sentence it sounds obscene.
- kmclemore
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Molybdenum disulfide, perhaps? This is a black grease, and is really good for lubrication, but not very good for stuff that gets wet.tangentair wrote:...I started spraying it regularly with white grease (moly?? and that is all I can spell of it)....|
My suggestion is to use white lithium-based grease (like "Lubriplate" or similar)... much better for wet environments. This grease can also be used for trailer wheel bearings to cope with water there, too.
- tangentair
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- pokerrick1
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soap
If you use blue soap - - - it will come off faster!tangentair wrote:and generally needs orange soap to get it off the hands.
Rick
- kmclemore
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Re: soap
Yes, but all the scratches you ever got on your hands will suddently appear.... and stay there for the rest of your life!pokerrick1 wrote:If you use blue soap - - - it will come off faster!tangentair wrote:and generally needs orange soap to get it off the hands.![]()
Rick![]()
- KayakDan
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Re: soap
Those aren't scratch marks on the hull...those are hash marks as you rise in rank on the Mac board!kmclemore wrote:Yes, but all the scratches you ever got on your hands will suddently appear.... and stay there for the rest of your life!pokerrick1 wrote:If you use blue soap - - - it will come off faster!tangentair wrote:and generally needs orange soap to get it off the hands.![]()
Rick![]()
