Just ask mike

A forum for discussing boat or trailer repairs or modifications that you have made or are considering.
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Compromise
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Post by Compromise »

aya16 wrote:compromise
So tell me exactly how its running now.
does it still run good after so many rpm's?
It cranks up perfectly. Before he did the carbs, if I revved too quickly in nuetral, it would cut out. It does not do that anymore, seems to run fine in nuetral. Once I put it in gear, it 'splutters' for lack of a better word, from 1100rpm through about 23-2500 rpms, but then it runs smooth. But as I said earlier, it's hard pushed to go beyond 35-3900rpms.
But the floats may be the issue if the mech. didnt check them (he should have (carb 101)
I'm beginning to think this may be the issue too. Either that or the choke possibly sticking?
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Compromise
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Post by Compromise »

aya16 wrote:over full oil (dont laugh this happens alot). too much oil will force it into the cyl.

Believe it or not, that thought has crossed my mind. Wouldn't this result in a blwn head gasket?
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aya16
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Post by aya16 »

also look if we find out for sure its oil getting into the piston area (for sure) and its valve guides. get a manual (shop) and fix this yourself, and save thousands. These engines are not that complicated. If its a ring or someting major like that (we need to know for sure before you tear into it)
you have choices so we will talk about that if and when. But lets make sure first.

whats the chance 2 stroke oil got into your gas? some marina gas stations have premix for sale did they maybe top off your tank with premix by mistake?
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aya16
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Post by aya16 »

see now we are getting into major speculation (blown head gasket) and the stuff I wrote. We need to perform some tests compression and spark plug first.
But yes a blown head gasket will make the engine run rough and smoke also you may have water in your oil.
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aya16
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Post by aya16 »

easy to tell about the choke look into the carb intake and theres a brass
plate in the throat. if the plate is blocking the entrance when you didnt activate the choke then its closed. work the choke a couple times as you watch this area and you will see what Im talking about.

with the engine off have someone move the throttle full and back to neutral a few times as you watch. the carb plate should move wide open
when you do this. if one isnt you found your problem.
Last edited by aya16 on Sat Jun 23, 2007 3:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Compromise
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Post by Compromise »

aya16 wrote:see now we are getting into major speculation (blown head gasket) and the stuff I wrote.
O.K. well let's aim for simple! When I was working with the first mechanic, I had asked if he would change the oil at one point which became lost in all the other craziness. Now I'm thinking, hoping, you're onto something.
Now given that you made me 'feel better' earlier, let's shoot for that again 8)
Let's say the first guy changed the oil and replaced it with too much oil, you said earlier this could get into the cylinder and result in smoke, foul the plugs and make the engine run rough.
The simple solution I'm hoping for here Mike, is if I drain the excess oil back to normal level, could this possibly resolve my issue? Or am I being 'simple'?
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aya16
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Post by aya16 »

if there too much oil and it is getting past the rings because the pressure is too high yes it should solve the problem. but its real simple to check the oil level to eliminate this.

to me it almost sounds like your running on one less cyl. then you have.
that would explain low rpm at wide open throttle and rough running at low rpm. This can be checked when you check for spark on all cyl.
and pull the plugs looking for oil. also could be as simple as a plug wire not making full contact.

so I would start with spark test, then check oily plugs oil level then
compression. but I would make sure the gas is perfect before anything.
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Compromise
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Post by Compromise »

WOT is when it continues to run smooth, it just can't seem to get passed the 3900 rpm range.
Mike, you really have given me hope here. I just assumed the guy changed the oil and put the correct amount back in. I really had not checked this. I was so consumed by the bloody carbs!
I'm heading out now, but will be at the boat first thing in the morning with a fresh can of gas and a rag to clean off the dip stick!
Keep your fingers crossed for me.
And thanks again. I'll try to post tomorrow evening.
Brian
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aya16
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Post by aya16 »

some it up lets check all the easy stuff first.

check oil level

check for good gas

check spark

look at the choke make sure its working right

check plugs for oil

squeeze the gasline bulb hard and watch there is no gas coming from carbs

check compression

then we go from there.

What rpm did you get at full throttle before these problems happened?
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Compromise
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Post by Compromise »

Mike,
Just got back home. As you suspected the oil level was too high. I drained the excess oil to the top of the dipstick. Brought a fresh tank of gas 93 octane rating, went to pull the plugs but had the wrong wrench size :(
She cranked up fine but again, once I put her in gear and headed out, shes running rough in the same rpm range. No smoke this time! My thinking at this point is maybe one of the plugs is fouled because of the oil! I'm hoping to get back out tomorrow with the correct wrench size. I'll keep you posted.
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aya16
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Post by aya16 »

X my fingers for ya. make sure when you pull the plugs and replace them
that the wires to the plugs dont have cracks or broken connector. In fact try running the motor next time with the motor hood off, If someone else can drive as you watch around the plugs and coils that there is no lose spark. If at idle hood off night time you can tell also.

Bet you have a bad wire shorting out some where to one cyl...........

how you can tell if all cyl. are firing: run engine at idle for a few min.
with hood off. turn the engine off. touch all the cyl. one at a time where the spark plug is screwed in. It shoild be pretty hot on each one. It wont
burn your skin off but if the cyl. was firing you wont want to keep your finger there long. If its cold it isnt firing.

what was the highest rpm you got before the problems???? If you tell me 5000 I say you have one cyl. not working now.

at idle the engine will run a little low rpm wise if a cyl isnt working. at mid range you will feel a miss big time, at full throttle it will smooth out and
hard to tell except your high rpm will be way down.

as much as we want it to be to much oil, I dont think unless the thing had 2 extra quarts it would do much to the plugs. and if it did, the plug now that its not getting oil pushed through the rings would most likely clear
or burn itself clean. Unless its just soaked. But if its the plug then it will most likely be the bottom one. but put all new plugs in


oh listen if when you change the plugs and start it and the motor just starts smoking like hull, let it, dont turn it off in fact rev it a little. It means that one cyl was full of oil and its now burning off. But you will be able to tell as soon as you pull the plugs, If the plug is just soaked with oil then count on the cyl. being full of oil too. you can pump the oil out by turning the engine over without plugs. have a towell handy you dont want to pump it into the bay
good luck
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ZANDRAMADAS
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ballast question

Post by ZANDRAMADAS »

Ok Mike this is a silly question, i know, but it worries me.....as soon as i get the boat in the water, i fill the ballast...every time...but, we motor alot...around 6knots..average, kids and wife like to go slow....it handles the waves better and the wakes from the powerboats too...is this a good thing to do? i've read that runnning to slow for too long isnt good....and i simply don't know...electronics is my specialty NOT engines....could i be damaging it? thansk for the help...
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aya16
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Post by aya16 »

Zandramadas
you didnt say what type engine you have. But it doesnt matter.
Ballast full and going slow. Doesnt hurt a thing. just make sure that when your out in the open you pull the rudders and dagger board up so you wont damage them. if you have a two stroke or four it wont hurt anything.
some impressions made on this board is the engines are made to run wide open and that thats best for them. What they mean is when running wide open its best to reach peak rpm. Thats true. so having the right prop to reach the highest rpm is important, but just cruising along is better for the motor because your not working as hard like any motor.
your right these boats do ride nice at 6 mph and they do handle best with ballast in. Where the boats handle better without ballast is when on plane. once on top of the water the boat will steer nice and track straighter.

also when you cruise at 6mp with your crew and a large boat passes you
or goes by you close at speed the wake effects the mac in a shocking way.
so quarter the wake. In other words turn into the wake and hit it at a 1/4
angle not head on or from the side. I have been knocked down from a wake before. its not unsafe just a bit of a scare.

It wasnt a silly question. A silly question would be
" when I hit 63 mph in my mac and the mast seems to bend a little and we seem to get a lot of air when we hit a wake. should I speed up or slow down?"
well you caught me at the right time I just checked the board before heading to the boat. Off to nirvana
Mike
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aya16
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Post by aya16 »

eleven thousand eight hundred views..is that a new record???????
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Compromise
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Post by Compromise »

aya16 wrote:eleven thousand eight hundred views..is that a new record???????
I would think so. Congrats and thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us peons 8)

p.s. Got rained out here yesterday so my engine issues will have to wait until next weekend.

Brian
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