in florida shallow waters

[March]

I have been using an alternative method, posted earlier on on this site: pinch the rudder line and squeeze it UNDER the cleat, in the little space between the two screws. The line is just about the right gauge (can't remember what it is) and it takes a little while to squeeze it in. Leave a loop under the cleat. Now when the rudders hit an underwater obstacle, the line would take the slack off the loop, or even pull the line out.

I've never seen it in action, but it seems logical enough and I am sure it'll work. No extra hardware involved

[McTexan]

I gave up on the stock rudder and got the flip-up rudder from IdaSailor. Can't beat it.

Hi, I have a 91 Mac and have always saied in deep waters but now I am in Fla and am wondering if there is a way to rig my rudder so that if I hit something my rudder snaps up vs breaking the cable. Hope someone can help. Thanks Peter

[rick_26S]

The stock rudder flips up also. It's what hold's it down that we're talking about. I know four people that used to have idasailor rudders. They threw them away when they broke off for no apparent reason.

[Night Sailor]

Posted elsewhere in the archives is an arrangement using bungee cord sections in the hold down lines. I recentlly installed this mod and like the way it works instantly and easily. I have to contend with stumps, and other junk in the lakes where I sail.
I made a loop in the cleat end of the line since tension is maintained by the bungee cord and no adjustment is required. It's easy to grab and pull the loop over the cleat horn. Even a first time passenger can do it.
I also followed the advice of the poster who recommended soaking the bungee cord in 303 UV protectant periodically to protect the cord from sun exposure.

[TAW02]

I have been using an alternative method, posted earlier on on this site: pinch the rudder line and squeeze it UNDER the cleat, in the little space between the two screws. The line is just about the right gauge (can't remember what it is) and it takes a little while to squeeze it in. Leave a loop under the cleat. Now when the rudders hit an underwater obstacle, the line would take the slack off the loop, or even pull the line out.

I've never seen it in action, but it seems logical enough and I am sure it'll work. No extra hardware involved

Mmm ... sounds plausible. What if you where to place a 'break-a-way' fuse in the loop? Like maybe a twigg or a wooden dowel that has been partially sawed through? You can figure out which design works best and make-up a few dozen of them and keep them on hand when ready to use.

Gee ... Here is how I envisioned this. March says to squeeze a loop of rudder down-haul line thru the center of the rudder-haul cleat. This leaves a small loop of line (which is adjustable). If the rudder hits something, the loop will be pulled free of the cleat allowing sufficient line to feed out to the rudder ... and thus allowing it to swing out-the-way (a little Eubonics here)

Maybe it has been thought of and tested before ... but seems to me that this set-up while working in conception could very well work in reality. My only thought is, the tension needed to hold the rudder against its stop while opposing forces (such as sailing and low-speed motoring), may be too much force for a loop of line to hold a cinch.

This is where a dowel of material could be inserted into the loop to help supply the needed cinch-stop while providing the break-away protection to the rudder.

[rick_26S]

Why not just spend the measly 22 bucks and buy the auto-release cleat. Done!

I can't see myself dinking around with dowels or twigs while I'm sailing. With the cleat, it pops, reset it, cleat the line and continue on. Simple and effective. No need to re-invent the wheel.

Rick

[Québec 1]

Why not just spend the measly 22 bucks and buy the auto-release cleat. Done!

I can't see myself dinking around with dowels or twigs while I'm sailing. With the cleat, it pops, reset it, cleat the line and continue on. Simple and effective. No need to re-invent the wheel.

Rick

* Report this post
* Reply with quote

Postby BK on Sun May 30, 2004 9:17 am
I just returned my auto release cleats to West Marine. I did not want to switch my rudder lines to the quarter inch line that the cleat requires. I would wait until a auto releasing cleat with a larger line is available.
Duane said 2 things about this, one; the black hole bolt the rudder line goes through is made to come off if you hit something. This will allow the rudder to come up without damage to the rudder. Next, wrap the rudder line around the cleat in a way that the line holds tight but will release in you hit something. I tried this method and hit some seaweed and my rudder came up so I know this works.

BK
First Officer

Posts: 473
Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2004 1:47 am

* Private message

[BK]

Duane has posted a couple of times a way to wrap the rudder line around the cleat so it releases when the rudder hits something. It is in the archives.

[TAW02]

Postby BK on Sun May 30, 2004 9:17 am
I just returned my auto release cleats to West Marine. I did not want to switch my rudder lines to the quarter inch line that the cleat requires. I would wait until a auto releasing cleat with a larger line is available.
Duane said 2 things about this, one; the black hole bolt the rudder line goes through is made to come off if you hit something. This will allow the rudder to come up without damage to the rudder. Next, wrap the rudder line around the cleat in a way that the line holds tight but will release in you hit something. I tried this method and hit some seaweed and my rudder came up so I know this works.

The auto-release cleats are cool indeed. While I have found them up to 1/2 inch, I have also found them not to be of any use on the rudder line due to high loads needed to maintain normal rudder operation.

I am just going to have to experiment with the twigs

Big T

[BK]

I found Duanne"s suggestion for "tied line release," it was posted May 31, 2004 at 2:31pm "As Tied Line Release Rudder."
It is the same as March's posted above. I'll post again anyway.
You lead the hold down line through the hole in the center of the cleat between the bolts. Pull it tight. Then take the tale of the lift up line around the cleat under the horns a few times. This is pinching the hold down line against the deck.There should be a free loop on the hold down line. This shoulod hold down your rudders in normal conditions. When you hit something because the hold down line is not cleated, the rudder will swing up out of the way once the force is greater than the friction of the of the hold down that is pinched.

[James V]

I do not use it. I keep the dagger board lower than the rudders and when needed I raise all. The daggerboard takes the longest but I am usally stoped by then. Florida is mostly sand and mud.