MacGregorSailors.com

In addition to the risk that Chip mentions, by not having it all the way into the Vblock, you are putting significantly less weight on the trailer tongue which could give you trailer sway problems.

It's not by any means unique to the Mac. I've been doing it for over thrity years, on two previous boats (both power); in fact, I've never towed a boat that didn't require it.

I don't agree with this statement as I have had 3 speedboats (16, 17, and 19 foot) which never had this problem. I think the Mac issue is due to the length of the boat and also perhaps because it is not supported all the way to the stern. Do people who have replaced the stock trailer with longer trailers (preferably with rollers too) have this "bump" problem?

Btw, one (less violent) trick to get the boat mostly into the stop is to incrementally winch the boat as you are pulling it up the ramp. Ie, pull it up about a foot, stop, winch the boat some more, pull it up another foot, stop and winch again, etc. If you do this 3 or 4 times, you will notice that you are only about 1 inch from the stop instead of 3-4 inches. I still do the bump after this, but it is a much more subtle bump to only have to move the boat 1 inch instead of 4.

Dimitri, you can't disagree with the statement. It's fact.

I didn't state or mean to imply that it's necessary with all boats; only a significantly smaller subset of boats: those that I've owned or towed.

Ok Chip, if you want to nitpick me, let me correct my statement to say that I disagreed with the implication that this was required with all boats

But hey, I was agreeing with you on the overall importance of getting the bow all the way to the V rubber! Although come to think of it, I don't believe I ever see anyone doing the "bump" with other boats at the ramp. There is one safety issue to consider...make sure there is no one behind you when you do it...I usually have my wife walk behind the boat to make sure no one starts riding my tail and ends up with a outboard skeg stuck in their radiator...."sorry officer, a deer jumped out in front of me and then ran off"... This one may be hard to sell in Florida...unless you are on Deer Key...may be better to try the ole alligator story instead.

Just one thing....I tried powering onto the front bunk and sheered the port hand one straight off!! That's my lesson learned!
Max

Chip Hindes wrote:[You should be worried about this.

Thanks for your advice Chip. I probably didn't make myself clear. It is not my "front bracket" as such that I fear is weak. i.e the bit that stops the boat ending up in the back of my Car.

But rather the front bunk. It isn't THAT weak I just don't want to push my luck.

I also operate two different scenarios.

1. The recoverd boat is staying at the marina/slip storage. I really don't mind being two or three inches back - it makes it easy launch next time and does no harm. I am never going to do more than 10 mph

OR

2. I am de-rigging the boat and liable to be doing 70 mph for possibly several hundred miles. THEN I make sure the boat is within a inch of the front bracket. We normally acheived this by - "-re-launching" and re-covering. The "Anyboat bump" still seems quite violent to me ? Not sure it is something I want to do everytime. I can get the boat well up being relaunching which seems easier on boat and bunks to me IMHO

Many thanks to everyone for such helpful advice what a brilliant forum!

I cant remember where I got the idea of the rope attachment from possibly one of the people selling a Mac when I was shopping round but I am well and truly warned off the idea now.

The UK trailer has a single axle with surge brakes which are also fitted with a handbrake. This is to help with manoeuvring but strictly not for long term parking because the brakes would seize on (I can confirm this is true). The front and back bunks on the UK trailer are 21 inches above ground measured up to the lowest point of the top face (the middle bunk is a bit lower).

I will measure the drop on the slope when Im there next I think its probably fairly average so armed with all the advice I have been given I am now rather more confident about tackling my first recovery.

Just put on a bigger winch. I got a winch with a second set of gears and it is easy to just winch the boat that last few inches.
Ken

That's a good suggestion, I think the existing winch is just a bit to weak. On our last trip right after I pulled up the ramp I stopped and cranked on the winch. To my surprise I was able to winch the bow those last few inches. Everything must have been just wet and slick enough as this hasn't worked before. If there was a bit more muscle in the winch it could probably do the job every time. I do think I will switch to a strap as well, that rope just looks too weak for the job the way it is straining.

The boat is so difficult to slide across its bunks, unless something drastic happens on the road, it's unlikely to slide aft once the bunks dry out. My habit now is to release the last click or two from the winch pawls after the boat is bumped fully forward, easing that tension on the winch line just a little. I also loop a short length of safety chain around the winch post and clip to the boweye.

Mark Prouty wrote:Try some


Available at West Marine and here.

I use this a couple of times per season. The Mac Bump is no longer required. I can winch the boat easily in the V with the standard winch.

Duane Dunn, Allegro wrote:That's a good suggestion, I think the existing winch is just a bit to weak. On our last trip right after I pulled up the ramp I stopped and cranked on the winch. To my surprise I was able to winch the bow those last few inches. Everything must have been just wet and slick enough as this hasn't worked before. If there was a bit more muscle in the winch it could probably do the job every time. I do think I will switch to a strap as well, that rope just looks too weak for the job the way it is straining.

Good point made Duane regarding the strap. Danny at PowerSailing did a re-do on my trailer for my Mast 28 from using a cable to using a strap-much easier with the strap. It doesn't "overwrap as easily so it's easier to both launch and retrieve using the strap. A more secure thing to look at a 3" wide strap as you're pulling on a 4000# boat.

Hi here a few things that i have experienced this summer when retreiving my

1. bent winch and strap is now fraide, trying to get the last two inches to the bumber, solution Mac bumb lightly. Will also go to a bigger winch this winter.
2. traveled over 2000 km at 120km no problems.

3. My slip is on a river with a 3knot current, once the boat is hooked up to the strap I put a fender between the back post and the hull on the downward side of the river, this alows the boat to be centered on the trailer while i slowly pull it out of the water. I use this every time i take it out of the water by myself.

4 If possible always come to the dock against the current, I find this a much easier way to control the boat.

Sailing you gota love it.

Moe wrote:I was a bit surprised to see that MacGregor uses a 1200# winch for the 26X, when Boston Whaler uses a 1500# one for a 15' Whaler. Guess Roger expects you to do the drive-on/drive-off thing.

I totally agree, Moe, and I've got the proof in my driveway... my BW Harpoon has a larger winch on it than my MacX, and my Harpoon is only 15'. I was surprised when I got the Mac that it was so small!

Here's some food for thought....Maybe the smaller winch is on there because the bow eye attachment is not designed to pull the boat across the trailer bunks?

That would be pretty poor, wouldn't it. But I don't think it would surprise me.