Does anyone disconnect the motor while sailing?

[Moe]

John, the photographs on page 20 and 21 show my bar, but with the threads at the motor end (like yours). However, the drawing shows the threads near the rudder bracket (like mine). So I guess it doesn't matter.

The text says, "We offer a linkage bar that connects the rudder to the engine" so I assume, that as with the M, it was optional.

It also says, "The threads also allow the bar to twist as the engine is retracted or lowered" so there isn't a problem with that.

I'll bet that if I ever need another one, Bill at Boats4Sail would have it at a better price than anywhere else.

All this being said, and given the Mac's leeway, I'll just leave the motor arm connected, and the motor down, especially near a leeward shore or in heavy boat traffic.
--
Moe

[Frank C]

Agree w/ Moe regarding my model 2000. The factory changed the rudder mounting bolt to a threaded post for exactly this purpose - disconnecting the motor's weight while sailing. I've used mine from time to time, never dropped anything, but it's a pain. Also, there's little advantage on my particular motor setup - the motor doesn't really flop, either raised or not, and there seems little drag, I just don't sweat it.

That much said . . . every motor installation is different. Some motors bind on the linkage, sometimes their hinge points cause flopping, sometimes they add much stiffness to the steering, ad infinitum. I like the looks of the BWY link, and at $45 (as Sloop attested) it's not a bad price for the swivel-ball joints. (In the racing world, they're call Heim-joints, eh Kev?)

[Catigale]

Here is what mine looks like - notice the protection I put on the the rudder post and the threaded rod to stop it from unscrewing



You can order this kit from me for 29.99 plus S&H - please state your Model, Year, Blue or White Hull so I can correctly cut the electrical tape to size ....thats Marine Grade electrical tape, of course.

Looking back in my log on this thread, I did not secure the motor up and on the post - I did not like the torque on the linkage in this position.

I just left it down for extended sailing and lived with the epsilon-drag.
My guess is the drag is turbulent and goes even weaker than V- squared but that's another thread.

Here is another attack angle - you could disconnect the motor linkage and sail tie or spare dockline it to either stanchion after you have flopped it to one side to keep it in place.

YMMV

Stephen

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[Catigale]

Apologies - pix are not uploading - oh, well, nothing new to see anyway. I will see if I can post later tonight.

Stephen

[Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL]

When I first got my '95 26X, the steering connector bar was not available from MacGregor. If you had the rudders connected, everytime you tacked, the OBM would flop to the other side. So, I made connectors with a SS turnbuckle body, threaded rod, and ball joints. Worked very well.
On my second 26X I ran the steering cable directly to the OBM and hooked up the rudders to the OBM with my connector. I think this was a much better system.
I prefer to keep both my rudders and OBM hooked up all the time. I think this gives the helm a more solid feel. I, personally can't think of any good reason to disconnect the OBM. But this is another one of those personal preference issues

[Tom Spohn]

Norm,
We never disconnected the motor on our 98X. Of course the steering was a little heavier, but the Tohatsu 50 just didn't weigh enough to make sailing difficult.

On our M with the Suzuki 70 it does make a difference. We have the exact same set up Duane showed above and it works very well and very quickly. With motor locked in place (no side to side) you can steer the boat, but for docking we like to connect everything back up and drop all the foils to get into our tight slip.

I think you should try it and see how it works. Personally I wouldn't do it without a quick disconnect similar to the BWY unit.

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Using an autopilot helps a lot with the motor flopping over while sailing issue. With the sportpilot, there is always enough drag on the steering to keep it from flopping over. When I used my boat a few times with the AP off (was in for overhaul), the steering was finger control easy, but then the motor flopped over real bad. Once I put the AP back on, it stopped flopping, whether the AP is engaged or not.

I find that the extra drag at sailing speeds is a couple of tenths, but thats enough for me to tilt the motor up when I'm going to be sailing for more than a mile or so. Every little bit helps. If I'm on a long trip and the wind is marginal, I end up "motor sailing" quite a bit. Like for example, there is enough wind to sail at 3-4 mph, but I augment with the motor to get up to 6-8 mph. This turns out to be pretty fuel efficient and I wouldn't be surprised if I get 10-15 mpg doing this. You have to trim the sails in more than usual due to the increase in apparent wind.

[BK]

I agree with Dimitri that the drag of the engine when down while sailing is small. I always leave it down while sailing as many times I would hit a lull in the wind or I needed to move out of the way fast and I would start the engine. Where I sail in the Long Beach area there are many container ships, oil pump islands and many other boats where quick action of a motor is sometimes needed.

[Moe]

I eliminated the motor flopping to one side or another when tilted up by SLIGHTLY applying some tension with the tensioning bolt on the back side of the steering rack. Yeah, the force of the motor trying to flop to one side or the other is now carried by the rack and pinion teeth, so if that bothers you, don't do this.

--
Moe

[Idle Time]

we unhook ours all the time. Only hook it when we are motoring or getting into an area where we might need it. Jim replaced the ringding with a pin, kinda looks like a big hairpin. He has a small bungee that flips up over the arm after he puts it on the other pin. See Moe's photo and the red arrows. Makes steering much easier when sailing. Even lets the boat sail itself it the sails are set right.

[Sloop John B]

Idle time: I want to do this.

A large hairpin? To me that's a long pin with a round piece at one end.

Okay, change to motor locked: Flip a small bungee over the arm after inserting the hairpin and hooking to the other pin.

Oh, I want so much for the boat to sail itself.

Faint of brain, I confess my failure to grasp all of this.

When women give me directions, I go cross eyed and get nauseous.

That's not your problem, it's my problem.

I'll bring my Mate in tomorrow morning when she wakes up and she'll read this and she'll say, "Hey, dink, lets go out and I'll show you how this works."

[Moe]

Is it a Hair Pin Cotter Pin?

[Sloop John B]

Thanks Moe.

My Mate told me at the same time that it's the pin that keeps the hitch in the truck. Hair pin?

I'm humiliated.

Edit: Also, my post departs from the board's spirit and could be considered rude and stupid. I'm going to try harder and thank you for your patience.

[Bill ( My Pleasure)]

I once had the large ring-ding on the motor control pivot fall off in the marina approaching my slip. This was not a good thing because I lost all control The motor tilted to one side and could not be put in the right position from the boat. Luckily, a friend waded through the muddy, cold, weedy water, to tilt the motor into position so that the steering arm could be replaced. Thankfully no damage was done. It helps to have a brave soul aboard!

[Norm]

Thanx for all the insight and info folks!:) I'll probably end up trying it disconnected once just to see how it feels. In a way, I miss the feel of the tiller on my old Mac25. But in a bigger way, I do not miss having to constantly tend to the steering, i.e. take your hands off the tiller for 2 seconds, and the boat rounds up to the wind. It's nice to be able to go below for a cold one and come back to the boat still sailing on course! I've had my X boat for 2 years now and I'm still not quite used to the stiff wheel I guess.