Maiden voyage

Frank C · Post by **Frank C** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:22 pm

argonaut wrote: . . . Mast raising seems a 2 person job regardless,
. . . It's just creepy with the standard raiser going down, with one loop around the winch, knowing if you slip and let go you're in the "kill zone".
... Anyway it take's all 180 lbs of me and another person doing the pinning to get it done.
... found a Loos gauge on board, I fear the PO may have experimented with adjusting the rigging making my forestay tighter than you'd ordinarily find.

I agree that it's a 2-person job, at least in your early days with the Mac. However, after awhile, the call o' the deep will convince you to learn solo. I doubt anyone can get the forestay "too tight." We're all probably running it a little too loose. Change to an adjustable backstay, and then learn to use your foot to finish-n-pin the forestay. And, IMO, the M-style winch-pole is a good answer for solo mast duties.

Rolf · Post by **Rolf** » Fri Dec 03, 2004 7:54 am

If you trailer regularly and often you might want to reconsider the furler, it is a lot of trouble IMHO. Shroud adjuster covers are a must to prevent kinking, and I find no ballast with no rudders at greater than 7 mph is easier for steering. Mast raising couldn't be easier solo as well. You just need more practice and trips and everything will become automatic.
Rolf

Dimitri-2000X-Tampa · Post by **Dimitri-2000X-Tampa** » Fri Dec 03, 2004 1:34 pm

If you are worried about being in the kill zone, you may be able to partially deploy a bimini as extra insurance. My bimini can be "up" but not unfolded. With the captains seat up and clipped to the lifeline, the bimini fits right in the little curve of the uplifted seat and won't drop down. It also won't interfere with the crutch/mast. This way, even if the mast were to fall, the 2 bows of the bimini would take the brunt of the crash...and would be a lot easier to replace than broken fiberglass or broken heads. Of course, everyone installs their bimini a bit differently, i think mine was installed by the original dealer.

Also, make sure to tie the tail of the raising line off to a cleat or stanchion (as well as being secured in the camcleat) before going up front to unkink something. IF you are using the same side as the CB line, you could run the line through 2 camcleats for extra protection.

Also the key to single handing the mast raising is making sure that the furler stays off of the deck. I put mine in a milk jug with the bottom cut out so that it can't scratch the deck. I used to use a long bungee attached to the bow pulpit, but after some advice from this board, I've found that just passing the furling line through the bow fairlead and applying tension to it as the mast comes up...is a very efficient way of keeping it off of the deck. Going down with the mast, you slowly release the tension on the furling line. Once you manage the furler like that, single handing is a cinch. My wife helped me the very first time I raised the mast without the mast raising system (P.O. had temporarily lost it)..but after I got the mast raiser, I've done it by myself every time afterwards...which is probably about 10 times now since I've gotten the boat.

And finally...up until a month or two ago, I didn't have an adjustable backstay. I had the stock vernier adjuster set in the very last hole. People here had been saying for a long time that an adjustable backstay would make pinning the forestay much easier but I was a bit skeptical since there wasn't all that much tension on it. But I confess, after putting in Duane's adjustable backstay mod and letting it slack for my last mast raising, it is MUCH easier to pin the forestay...basically no effort at all. (thanks Duane!) Now of course, I feel that my shrouds are too loose so I'll be adjusting them again sometime soon...finally got my loos gauge. Only thing left to decide is whether I want to shorten the forestay some to reduce weather helm some...still haven't decided yet..maybe time for a new poll.

Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL · Fri Dec 03, 2004 1:58 pm

Dimitri - If you are going to shorten the forestay anyway, and even if you're not, consider installing a Johnson Marine Quick-Release Shroud Lever (p. 1015 in West Marine cat.) on the bottom of your forestay. It sure simplifies getting the forestay tight. I even put one on my 26X with RF; had to have the sail re-cut so I had room for it.

Duane Dunn, Allegro · Post by **Duane Dunn, Allegro** » Fri Dec 03, 2004 2:09 pm

Seems to me it would be easier to add the quick release at the bottom and then raise the forestay connection at the top. A few inches higher really shouldn't have much effect and you can still use the sail, furler and forestay as it is. One new hole and all the problems are solved.

Dimitri-2000X-Tampa · Post by **Dimitri-2000X-Tampa** » Fri Dec 03, 2004 2:12 pm

Thanks Bill, sounds like a good suggestion. Although I have noticed that I can tighten up the forestay some with my new adjustable backstay. One of the things I'm curious about is whether these mods require either re-cutting of the sails, or shortening the RF sleeve, etc.

Not meaning to hijack Argo's thread here...so, I started a new topic with poll over HERE.

Frank C · Post by **Frank C** » Fri Dec 03, 2004 5:14 pm

Rolf wrote: . . . I find no ballast with no rudders at greater than 7 mph is easier for steering.

Not disagreeing w/ Rolf, but a caveat ... speed and handling cannot be generalized.

Speed & handling under power differs greatly among Macs depending upon the outboard horsepower & characteristics (diameter & pitch) of prop. For example, I think Rolf is much happier with a 90-horse & 15" prop than his earlier 50-horse & 12" prop.

norbert · Post by **norbert** » Mon Dec 06, 2004 5:48 am

shroud adjuster covers, backstay release, longer forestay pin ... and mast raising is easy even single handed on the water. did it many times on inshore lakes. even now i never wait longer thas 1/2 hour for bridge opening but lower the mast and leave all the big boats behind

!

so i see no need for a forestay lever. consider that repositioning of the forestay will have some probably negative effects on your rigg geometry. the sail will be higher from deck > more heeling. raised attachment point on the mast top > less spar stability (while shroud and forestay loads will not act at the same point) and loss of mast bending ability. i would not do this mod.

Jack O'Brien · Post by **Jack O'Brien** » Mon Dec 06, 2004 6:20 am

Clear vinyl hose from The Home Depot works for me. Got it on all the shroud adjusters and baby stays, bottoms and tops, and now they do not kink. I drilled holes through the hoses and put nylon ties through the hoses and adjusters to keep them in place. Put a 6-inch pendant and pelican hook in the backstay which makes pinning the forestay much easier, as does a long forestay pin either "store-boughten" or made from a bolt. Next I'm gonna try the foot-in-the-sail-tie idea.

Letting out four inches of centerboard line drops the CB to where the top aft corner of the board is just emerging from the trunk/slot so the board can act as a skeg. Greatly improves slow speed steering control and at least one rudder down is a necessity.

Catigale · Post by **Catigale** » Mon Dec 06, 2004 4:45 pm

I spent an afternoon a few weeks ago with Catigale in the driveway trying to get my side shrouds up to 300# tension and still pin the forestay myself

No mast raising gear. It was difficult to get to 300#

The backstay tension made no difference with regards to pinning forestay that I recall - even left it off.

I might try the adjustable forestay and raising the genoa up the mast since its a reversible mod, less the extra two holes in the mast up higher...

The foot in the sail tie trick works great!!

Stephen

MacGregorSailors.com

MacGregorSailors.com

Maiden voyage

Shroud-Adjuster Covers