Topping lift question

[yukonbob]

I have 1/8 line with two brass snaps, one for not sailing (shorter) and one for under sail (longer) and attach to an eyelet at the end of the boom. Super simple unless you forget to clip it back on when sailing cause it swings way out and you have to catch it as it comes rocketing back toward you.

[Y.B.Normal]

Gyroplane:
In order to go with ss cable, you need to do a structural analysis,prove it isn't going to change any flight or handling characteristics, do a weight & balance, add to the equipment list, complete a Form 337 in triplicate (or get a field approval from the nearest FSDO) and have it signed off by an A&P with an IA.

Sorry....I just flashed back to me old A&P days. (You going to OSH this year? I live near the top of the lake; been gong there since 1970.)

A good line works best!

[Ixneigh]

Did I read some place about attaching said topping lift to the mast head with a nut and bolt?
Not quite sure how you plan to do that but remember if you haven't already to keep things loosey goosey up there. If it's bolted down tightly any movement will be taken by the wire itself which will fatigue and break probably within days or even hours of sailing. And keeping things loose means dealing with metal to metal chafe and the mast is softer and more expensive then the wire. My mast is already scarred , on a brand new boat, because the dealer was not careful with the hardware.
A few other observations.
Do NOT hoist any heavy things with the topping lift or mainsail halyard. Use the jib halyard. It's the only line up there well supported by three stays. The manual even states that somewhere.
Hoisting someONE onto one of these boats in anything but flat calm conditions would be an exercises in terror I could well do without. Trying that with an average adult in any kind of wind would likly lay the boat flat. And break the mast off at the upper shrouds if attempted with the topping lift or main halyard.
Rope or line if protected from excessive chafe is very strong. I tied the jib halyard block to the mast after failing to find a way that that funky block and flat stainless plate from the factory would not bugger up the aluminum mast. That lashing is probably stronger then any of the wire on the yacht.
Wire also rusts. Even the stainless wire on my new boat has surface rust after three months in the briney blue. I would not want that contacting the sail if I did not need to.

Ixneigh

[gyroplanes]

Gyroplane:
In order to go with ss cable, you need to do a structural analysis,prove it isn't going to change any flight or handling characteristics, do a weight & balance, add to the equipment list, complete a Form 337 in triplicate (or get a field approval from the nearest FSDO) and have it signed off by an A&P with an IA.

Sorry....I just flashed back to me old A&P days. (You going to OSH this year? I live near the top of the lake; been gong there since 1970.)

A good line works best!

HEY, it's not a type certificated Macgregor......... it's a homebuilt !

I am an A&P with Inspection Authorization, and quite proudly, a Designated Airworthiness Representative. (I issue airworthiness certificates)

It sounds like you have a bit of aeronautical experience too.

I co-chaired Oshkosh back in the 80's. Never missed the show until I started having difficulty walking distances. I spent the entire week there in 2007 working the Xenon gyroplane booth. I am thinking about returning for a day this year. If you love aircraft EAA's AirVenture is the only place to be.

[vizwhiz]

I'm jealous - wanna go! I live in Lakeland and we have the Sun-n-Fun, but it can't compare to the real Osh-Kosh...

Anyway, someone posted that they used a stainless cable with a short piece of rope at the end (and a pulley and cheek block and etc.). I'm thinking that you could save a bundle by doing something similar - most of it be cable - and leave a two-foot section at the bottom made of rope - use a cleat or something on the end of the boom so you can adjust it - and you have the best of both worlds. You have the cable, so that costs you nothing, you probably have a three-foot section of line sitting around somewhere, so that would cost you nothing, and you get the best of both worlds.

I'm sure the X/M are different than the S I have, but my mainsail doesn't seem to touch the topping lift ever...is there something I'm missing? I'm not sure what chafing you'd be referring to...
I have a stock Doyle mainsail (which may be why).

[Sumner]

I like the flexibility of a line going through a block at the top and back down to a cleat on the mast side.

You can hold the boom at many different heights...





...If you also have a short side line with a loop off of the back stay above the cockpit you can hold the boom up with that on anchor and then use the topping lift to run up an anchor sail, a flag, a WiFi antenna or your wash up the backstay.

We now have a separate line parallel to the topping lift and use the topping lift line to hold the boom up out of the way off to the side of the cockpit with the main sheet and also a preventer at the bottom of the boom.



The second line is for the anchor sail.

I know more weight aloft, but believe me, Ruth and I will never know it is there for the type of sailing we do and having the boom out of the way at night and held up while hoisting or reefing the main and being able to run the anchor sail up or down in just a minute for out way the loss of a quarter knot or less of speed.

More on the mod here....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... ing-3.html

Sum

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links