MacGregorSailors.com

I'd rate it as one of the top quick and dirty mods done to the boat so far...engine weight off the steering while sailing makes it very relaxing and no more hard overs if you let go of the wheel like before. In fact now you can find the wheel's happy spot and I've let it run without touching it for half hours at a time or steer by sail trim.

I know most everyone loves disconnecting the motor, but I have come to like a different option. From the reading here I thought it was a must have and put a disconnect on my Honda 50 before I ever put it in the water. It was OK, I used it some of the time. I used it a little more with the heavy 90, but never "loved" using it. I agree when running the cable to the wobbly linkage, then rudders, then having the motor drag along the on the mac system its far from ideal. Eventually trying to eliminate slop I ran the steering cable direct to the motor. I can't comment on M linkage, but for an X it works. The motor and steering cable are designed by their manufacturers to be connected directly and have no play or backlash. Running the cable to the rudders first and having the heavy motor follow causes a host of issues that are eliminated when you reverse the order and have the light rudders after the heavy motor, making a disconnect no longer necessary.

there is an advantage in the M-system.
The cable does not go direct to the rudder. this gives more play to the rudder. But the cable in this system stays dry INSIDE the boad and does never get salt water!

Jeff,

Blue Water sold me the piece separately. When I bought our 1998 X it had all the pieces installed except the piece to set the quick release on to keep the motor stationary.

Darren

I realize this is an old post but I thought for future searches it might be worth mentioning that the BWY quick disconnect linkage can be made for about 40 bucks. The 3/8 quick disconnect ball joints can be bought online for about $8 apiece. Then all you need is a about an 8 inch long piece of 3/8 stainless steel rod, a 3/8-24 die and a couple of jam nuts. The centering lockout post can be made by bending a piece of stainless flatstock or using a piece of aluminum U-channel. Made and installed mine in less than a day and saved a 100 bucks!

BellyRat wrote:I realize this is an old post but I thought for future searches it might be worth mentioning that the BWY quick disconnect linkage can be made for about 40 bucks. The 3/8 quick disconnect ball joints can be bought online for about $8 apiece. Then all you need is a about an 8 inch long piece of 3/8 stainless steel rod, a 3/8-24 die and a couple of jam nuts. The centering lockout post can be made by bending a piece of stainless flatstock or using a piece of aluminum U-channel. Made and installed mine in less than a day and saved a 100 bucks!

Sweet tks

G

darrenj wrote:Jeff,

Blue Water sold me the piece separately. When I bought our 1998 X it had all the pieces installed except the piece to set the quick release on to keep the motor stationary.

Darren

I've been wanting the motor quick disconnect setup. I've seen it on multiple boats. I searched through BWY's entire parts list and didn't see it or know what they called it. Do you remember the nomenclature for it; or, know if they still sell them?

Thanks!
Doug

Just give them a call. I ordered it from Ezra. It's not listed as far as I know

Doug W wrote:I've been wanting the motor quick disconnect setup. I've seen it on multiple boats. I searched through BWY's entire parts list and didn't see it or know what they called it. Do you remember the nomenclature for it; or, know if they still sell them?

It's still there, on the accessories page, for both the and the .

http://bwyachts.com/web%20catalog%20312 ... eering.htm

I got mine last year, and I like how it improves what little feel there is in the helm. Makes the steering lighter.

When using the quick disconnect, has anyone kept the motor in the disconnected state, and just used the rudders to control the boat? If so, how did that work out up to about 6 to 8 kts? I have a 26M.

Chuck

I've done that with our 26X, by mistake. After sailing and having the steering disconnected from the engine, I dropped sails and started motoring. The boat steered fine while underway, but when I got in, close to the dock, the steering seemed strangely unresponsive. That's when I realized that I was just steering with rudders, with the engine pushing straight ahead. You don't realize how valuable that directional outboard thrust is until it's not there. I do intentionally steer with just the rudders when I'm powering the boat with the 2.5 hp kicker, which I do when I'm trolling with the downrigger or if the main engine isn't working and I'm having to limp into the dock. I lock the kicker into straight ahead position and then steer with the rudders. It works fine, as long as the wind and/or current don't cause too many problems. If so, I have to lean over the stern and help turn with the kicker.

Chinook wrote:I've done that with our 26X, by mistake. After sailing and having the steering disconnected from the engine, I dropped sails and started motoring. The boat steered fine while underway, but when I got in, close to the dock, the steering seemed strangely unresponsive. That's when I realized that I was just steering with rudders, with the engine pushing straight ahead. You don't realize how valuable that directional outboard thrust is until it's not there. I do intentionally steer with just the rudders when I'm powering the boat with the 2.5 hp kicker, which I do when I'm trolling with the downrigger or if the main engine isn't working and I'm having to limp into the dock. I lock the kicker into straight ahead position and then steer with the rudders. It works fine, as long as the wind and/or current don't cause too many problems. If so, I have to lean over the stern and help turn with the kicker.

LOL Been there ,done that too . It's a what The Hull moment for sure. Glad Your loop trip is still doing well Ron.

like every other week! I lock and raise the outboard when we leave for the week; We usually get down to the boat Friday evening and leave 5 or 6 the next morning to head south for the weekend; Too many times I've cast off and same thing as Chinook describes, not quite the steering ability with it disconnected and at 5 am in tight quarters always wakes me up in a hurry. I just throttle down now connect the steering then power back up, takes literally two seconds to reconnect and we're off.

Interesting to know, I would think running with the motor locked forward would elevate the risk of the rudder hitting the prop when hard over.

At the time of purchase the dealer said he found that with the E-tec 60 that disconnecting the motor was unnecessary. I skeptically accumulated the parts to make a quick-disconnect (except for the ball connections) but found out that he was right, there is enough friction (my linkages have been modified at several points to reduce lash) and the motor balanced on-centre enough that I didn't need to disconnect. Other than to maybe reduce wear on the mechanism. In actual sailing conditions the steering input is through a smaller arc where the motor weight is near centred. Using the full range of steering is done more often when the motor is down.

Just another POV.

I double checked to make sure the rudders don't come close with the ob locked and lowered. However a few years ago I had the ob locked and up and went to lower the rudders with the steering hard over and accidentally let the rudder rope slip and it sure made contact with the prop and took a nice allbeit little chunk out of my starboard rudder. Nothing a little 5200 couldn't fix. Pretty sure if the OB was down and running the rudder would've been a foot shorter.

That would be an interesting Mod a shoal Rudder ??

J
PS I,ve often thought about makin a mod that would make my rudders lift vertically instead of horizontally would allow the rudders to be used in shallow water @ eng depth