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kevinnem wrote:I am in the "state" of alberta, up in canada.

The plan for me is ot bring it in on friday night, clean the inside, and out, then by saterday after noon be trying to figure out the rigging.

One thing I am Still confussed about is where the line is to lower the swing keel- this is driveing me nuts.

Look at the base of your mast, there is a line coming up out of the cabin top, it should lead around the out side of the sliding hatch, then back to a cam cleat at front of the cockpit near winches.
Mine has about 14 ? inch of travel on the line between keel up and keel down

Alberta state? How provincial of you.....

DaveB wrote:JT,
One of the most important items on your boat should have the rudders on a quick release cam. This allows anything hitting your rudders to auto release cam and lift up the rudders. Duckworks have these and tho max line is 1/4 inch it has worked very well for me past 2 years.
It saves your rudder and bracket in case of grounding or any thing else that may be floating.
Mine has actived the lift many times mostly from debree and shallow un charted waters. No Damage.
Dave
Copy that Dave, I'll make some marks on my CB line so I can gauge it easily next time.

JT

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Next on the list....quick release rudder cams. I currently have them on cam cleats just like my sheets but I know they wouldn't auto release if impact occured. Does anyone have a good source or even a part number for these? My friend with an told me he made this mod and lives fairly close by so I can take a drive and check his out. Thanks again guys....very good information.

JT


BTW how do I post a photo?

Gater Dunn wrote: Look at the base of your mast, there is a line coming up out of the cabin top, it should lead around the out side of the sliding hatch, then back to a cam cleat at front of the cockpit near winches.
Mine has about 14 ? inch of travel on the line between keel up and keel down

Thanks for the info - so the line is on the OUTSIDE of the boat (26x). I will have a look - I think I saw a little line I thought it was part of the mast raising system.

Cheers.

Thanks for the info - so the line is on the OUTSIDE of the boat (26x). I will have a look - I think I saw a little line I thought it was part of the mast raising system.

Cheers.[/quote]



Nope, the line is not on the outside. It runs from the centerboard up through the inside of the stainless pole (in the cabin by the table) through the cabin top near the mast step. It then goes 90 degrees toward the starboard side and from a block back to the cockpit.

JT

kevinnem wrote:Thanks for the info - so the line is on the OUTSIDE of the boat (26x). I will have a look - I think I saw a little line I thought it was part of the mast raising system.

dive4it wrote: Nope, the line is not on the outside. It runs from the centerboard up through the inside of the stainless pole (in the cabin by the table) through the cabin top near the mast step. It then goes 90 degrees toward the starboard side and from a block back to the cockpit.

Here's a pic showing the CB line. It comes out of the compression tube inside the cabin just aft of the mast, crosses the cabin roof to starboard, and runs along the sliding hatch track on the starboard side to the cockpit, where it's passing through a cam cleat to the left of the starboard winch. I believe that arrangement is OEM, but I don't know that for sure.

Cam cleat rudders, you need two.

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/cl ... /index.htm

Dave


Copy that Dave, I'll make some marks on my CB line so I can gauge it easily next time.

JT [/quote][/quote][/quote]


Next on the list....quick release rudder cams. I currently have them on cam cleats just like my sheets but I know they wouldn't auto release if impact occured. Does anyone have a good source or even a part number for these? My friend with an told me he made this mod and lives fairly close by so I can take a drive and check his out. Thanks again guys....very good information.

JT


BTW how do I post a photo?[/quote]

Perfect, thanks Dave. I just ordered a pair.

JT

Dave,

Do those cleats work ok to hold the rudders in the up position as well? Did you keep the cleats to secure the rudders, or remove them and install these?

Seems like it would take some trial and error to set the tension correctly. I guess the fact that the line goes aft then down significantly does not hinder the operation...........

Up to now, I've used ball bungies to put tension on the rudder line, holding them in place, and HOPING that if the rudders hit bottom, the bungie will break before the rudder. I used to not secure them down, but I've noticed some wear on the rudders where they have moved fore/aft in the down position--I need to repair that sometime.

Ron

Ron, I only use the cams when traveling the intercoastal waterways and shallow water. Out in the open Gulf I by pass them and fasten lines to stearn cleat.
Even when I have the lines on a cam I pick up access line and do a half hitch on fixed cleat so the line doesn't get near propella,this gives enough line slack when the rudder does kick up.
I would have serouse damage with rudders or brackets if the rudders were fixed. Floating debree or hitting a sand bar that was uncharted or makeing a stupid mistake and not lifting rudders up when beaching in time.
I have the tension at max. think 50 lbs. They will kick up very quickly at max. setting.To bad they don't work in reverse backing stearn to beach.
Trailering I always cleat on the fix mount and do not use a tru bolt for second hole in rudders unless I go on a long trip.(ease of set up time launching)
Dave

captronr wrote:Dave,

Do those cleats work ok to hold the rudders in the up position as well? Did you keep the cleats to secure the rudders, or remove them and install these?

Seems like it would take some trial and error to set the tension correctly. I guess the fact that the line goes aft then down significantly does not hinder the operation...........

Up to now, I've used ball bungies to put tension on the rudder line, holding them in place, and HOPING that if the rudders hit bottom, the bungie will break before the rudder. I used to not secure them down, but I've noticed some wear on the rudders where they have moved fore/aft in the down position--I need to repair that sometime.

Ron

You will need 1/4 inch braided line. Even going to that diamiter it is easy to lift up rudders. I wish they made larger ones but these do work well after 2 years.

dive4it wrote:Perfect, thanks Dave. I just ordered a pair.

JT

Reading this with interest, on my 99X I have been just dropping the rudders and not securing them in the down position. The rudder line does dangle which is a cause for concern but I didn't know I should be pulling and securing the slack. I thought normal operation was to not secure down so they would be free if I were to hit something.

Gerry

They should be cleated off , Gerry. If you don't do this, at any sort of forward speed the rudders will swing aft , which will drastically increase the load on the steering box, beyond its design limit

Gerry, These rudders are designed to be fully all the way down and secured by fixed cleat or break away cam cleat . If you just have a partial 10 degree rudder or more you will know it as the forward movement will make steering tougher and lose speed.
Slop on the rudder can be reduced by adding large Durlin plastic washes on both sides of rudder and tighten locknut so rudder goes up and down with no slop but free movement.
Dave

ginks wrote:Reading this with interest, on my 99X I have been just dropping the rudders and not securing them in the down position. The rudder line does dangle which is a cause for concern but I didn't know I should be pulling and securing the slack. I thought normal operation was to not secure down so they would be free if I were to hit something.

Gerry

ginks wrote:Reading this with interest, on my 99X I have been just dropping the rudders and not securing them in the down position. The rudder line does dangle which is a cause for concern but I didn't know I should be pulling and securing the slack. I thought normal operation was to not secure down so they would be free if I were to hit something.

Gerry