M tiller mod

[jbousquin]

I just put enough tension on the wheel so it can't be backdriven, then trim the sails and balance the CLR and COE. From there take my hand off the wheel, sit back and relax, and let the wind and sails control the boat.
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EZ,

What's the process of balancing CLR (Center of Lateral Resistance) and COE (Center of Effort)? Not familiar with how you do that on a sailboat in general, and the Mac specifically.

Thanks, Joe

[mastreb]

...the inability to -effectively- single hand with the wheel.

What specifically is difficult. All my lines lead aft to the helm. I have no trouble single.

The biggest thing for me is the helm flopping all over by itself. I do a lot of sail trimming to keep consistent heel and speed which is pretty much required for these boats. The bay I sail in has consistent winds but they change direction depending on where you're at within a very short period of time as you move through the different areas. There's also an enormous amount of traffic here to be dodged, so you're tacking a lot more than you'd like some times. It takes quite a bit of sail handling, and that means a dedicated helmsman is pretty much necessary.

Granted, I don't have the BWY steering linkage and I know the outboard causes a bit of the steering problem, but I don't mind the heavy helm at all. I think taking away the inertia of the motor would make a nervous helm even more nervous, and I like not having to crawl down to engage it. The only issue is that I've got to have my hands on the wheel at all times. I bought a steering tensioner and decided I wasn't going to like it. I've used screw type before on rental boats and they're too fiddly to get engaged and disengaged in a hurry.

I'm just going to put a wheel pilot on it and call it good.

[Russ]

Good points about the wheel tension.

Sounds like you've thought this through. I like the screw wheel brakes on other boats. Wish we had one for our Mac. I guess not for everyone.

My wheel has a LOT of weight when I tilt the motor up while connected to the linkage. I will YANK the wheel out of my hand and it makes a loud THUD when it goes all the way over. As you mentioned, the BWY linkage is awesome. We only keep the motor attached to the linkage when docking and need extra steering. Otherwise, it's centered and not attached to the steering.

[Boblee]

Really can't see the point but it's your boat and your cost if no one wants it when you sell or if you don't like it, certainly wouldn't consider it myself, have a boat full of goodies that suit me and my style of use but no one is interested in paying for them, so may just end up using it a bit longer especially now am getting new knees.

[Steve K]

mastreb,

Well, I guess I'll be the outsider........ the rebel, on this one, but here's my thought.

I hated the wheel on my Mac26X and always thought about doing, exactly the same mod (except I was just going to put a single kicker on one side). I had a sport pilot on it which made the old style steering even stiffer. There was no feedback whatsoever. Never knew where the rudders were

I always preferred tiller boats (on boats below 40 or 50 feet in length).
After I removed the helm seat, the extra room in the cockpit was great and I thought long and hard about how big and roomy that cockpit would be without that wheel/pedestal.

I wasn't getting the use out of the boat and could no longer justify the payment and property taxes, while it just sat in the back yard all year until I had my big, one week, sailing trip (this was because of my work, not the boat itself). So I ended up selling the X.

A couple years later, having more time, I found my D...... paid cash and now get out a little more often.

Anyway, to get to the point, I think this mod would work very, very well. I think with the right rudder design, it would sail and handle better than ever.
And planing doesn't seem to be an important point for you, so I say, try it

The fastest 26X (under sail) I ever knew, was one that had a single 10hp outboard on the stern. The owner had built his own rudders that also worked better than the originals (pre-dating Ida/ruddercraft).

The dual rudders need to be perfectly aligned, or one is always producing some degree of drag, and the Mac rudder linkage is not really precision, in that respect.

I would guess, you will want to build a high aspect rudder and I would suggest designing it so the leading edge is even with, or slightly forward of the pivot point. This seems to work well on most transom hung rudders.
you can search the web for "26D" rudder, rudder mods, Mac 26D rudder mod" or similar variations to see how many D owners have improved their own rudders. (where IDA got the idea, or started the idea, not sure which)

The foil should be a NACA 012 and I don't think I would make the chord width much more than 12 inches.
Also, having modified my rudder, may I suggest making the bottom and tapered, semi round style. Mine is, (and so are many), pretty flat and cut off like the dagger board and I'm not sure this is the best design. My next one (which I hope to build this winter) will have a more efficient end. (will do some more study on it in the meantime)

I don't think this would be a big deal either. Seems to me it would be easy to remove the rudder linkage and rudders, add some pintles in the center, without drastically modifying the boat. Save the original parts, as you say, and I don't really believe there will be a resale value problem. It could be a great selling point, if fact, because there are more of us tiller lovers out there than one would think.

One more thing......
On my D boat, I have built a very simple link (made from an old piece of aircraft linkage) to connect outboard and rudder, so I steer both with the tiller during slow motoring and maneuvering. (slips right off to tilt the ob up, for sailing)

Oh did I mention, I use less than 6 gallons of gas in a week long trip, on the average. Think of the gained storage space there. On the M, I'm picturing a cockpit beer cooler under there

I actually hope you try this mod

Best Breezes,
Steve K.
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"

[Catigale]

.....and you can always lock the tiller with a gate hasp....

[RobertB]

G As you mentioned, the BWY linkage is awesome. We only keep the motor attached to the linkage when docking and need extra steering. Otherwise, it's centered and not attached to the steering.

Does anyone have a picture of the BWY linkage - testimonials are great but I need to understand better before considering.

[Russ]

Does anyone have a picture of the BWY linkage - testimonials are great but I need to understand better before considering.

Jim made an excellent video of it.

Click Here

I take this thing for granted as it came with my boat. It really should be standard from the factory.

[capt grumpypants]

EZ, What's the process of balancing CLR (Center of Lateral Resistance) and COE (Center of Effort)? Not familiar with how you do that on a sailboat in general, and the Mac specifically. Thanks, Joe

Hey Joe,

The theory of boat balance is conveyed by this explaination:

If your center of effort is in line with your center of lateral resisitance, then the boat is balanced, and will steer straight.
If your center of effort is behind (aft of) your center of lateral resistance, then the stern will swing away from the wind.
If your center of effort is before your center of lateral resistance, then the bow will swing away from the wind.

A more involved explaination (by Ted Brewer) can be seen herehttp://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_servi ... alance.php

So in theory you would use reduction in sail area and/or movements of the centerboard to get these effects.

Fair Wiiinds (and thanks for the help).

James H.


Others will chime in, but I believe only half the area of the rudder is used when calculating the CLR. Weather helm would be the pic on the right, where the bow tends to turn upwind. Lee helm in the center pic.