chain rode

[iredrider1177]

another question, probably out of my price range anyways. is it worth it to buy stainless steel chain? im thinking not for a trailer sailor. but maybe im missing something

[Crikey]

OK, I'm standing corrected here! The snubber goes on the chain end, not the deckside..... Whoa boy, I had a picture of trying to do a slip knot at the end of the rode while trying to tag the bungee onto the bowspit!
I use (correction - am currently using) those truckers rubbers on my rudders, and find they don't last too long out in the elements. Something that could fail but not jeopardize anchoring as long as the main system is in place.

Dave, I'm agreeing with you on the chain lifting cancelling most (if not all) of the shock - I run 30ft . But I've been out there in some big ones (well OK, lake Ontario then) - and had a few moments with sleep deprivation! The average Mac loaded is probably pulling 4500+ lbs. Not quite a balsa wood glider.....

[Catigale]

Redrider......you don't need SS chain in fresh water...

[chuck]

A Sentinel is a big help when you do not have enough chain. I use one in the San Juans and Puget Sound all the time.

"Using an anchor weight, kellet or sentinel

Lowering a concentrated, heavy weight down the anchor line – rope or chain – directly in front of the bow to the seabed, behaves like a heavy chain rode and lowers the angle of pull on the anchor.[23] If the weight is suspended off the seabed it acts as a spring or shock absorber to dampen the sudden actions that are normally transmitted to the anchor and can cause it to dislodge and drag. In light conditions, a kellet will reduce the swing of the vessel considerably. In heavier conditions these effects disappear as the rode becomes straightened and the weight ineffective. Known as a "anchor chum weight" or "angel" in the UK"

Chuck

[Divecoz]

I was in Protected Harbor Pelican Bay when I discovered my need ( in spite of my 30' of 5/16 bb chain) and found a solution that works for me .... They are cheap and its not like they go unnoticed if they Begin to degrade.. JSYK the sell them made of Black Silicon.. $$

OK, I'm standing corrected here! The snubber goes on the chain end, not the deckside..... Whoa boy, I had a picture of trying to do a slip knot at the end of the rode while trying to tag the bungee onto the bowspit!
I use (correction - am currently using) those truckers rubbers on my rudders, and find they don't last too long out in the elements. Something that could fail but not jeopardize anchoring as long as the main system is in place.

Dave, I'm agreeing with you on the chain lifting cancelling most (if not all) of the shock - I run 30ft . But I've been out there in some big ones (well OK, lake Ontario then) - and had a few moments with sleep deprivation! The average Mac loaded is probably pulling 4500+ lbs. Not quite a balsa wood glider.....

[Catigale]

The anchor load is weakly related to the mass of the boat....in 50 knots of wind, a Mac will probably load the rode about 1300 lb force, rough SWAG

I've only been anchored in conditions like this once, but thankfully was prepared with a second anchor out on a 150 foot rode.

[mastreb]

another question, probably out of my price range anyways. is it worth it to buy stainless steel chain? im thinking not for a trailer sailor. but maybe im missing something

Hot dip galvanized (typical chain sold as anchor chain) will last decades even in saltwater. No need for stainless IMHO.

I use a galvanized 7lb. Grapnel as a kellet, which works wonders for eliminating shock loading. It runs down the rode and stops at the chain, keeping the chain completely on the bottom. That with a fortress 11 is all I've ever needed in the sandy and rocky bottoms of SoCal. Everything fits inside the chain locker with room for docklines. I have 25 feet of chain and 150' feet of rode.

[Harrison]

another question, probably out of my price range anyways. is it worth it to buy stainless steel chain? im thinking not for a trailer sailor. but maybe im missing something

Hot dip galvanized (typical chain sold as anchor chain) will last decades even in saltwater. No need for stainless IMHO.

I use a galvanized 7lb. Grapnel as a kellet, which works wonders for eliminating shock loading. It runs down the rode and stops at the chain, keeping the chain completely on the bottom. That with a fortress 11 is all I've ever needed in the sandy and rocky bottoms of SoCal. Everything fits inside the chain locker with room for docklines. I have 25 feet of chain and 150' feet of rode.

I agree. Both my chains are galvanized. Fresh, salt, 7 years, still no rust.

[seahouse]

Because of its high freeboard, and it tendency to “wag”, the snatch load that a Mac (X,M) delivers to an anchor rode is greater than other boats of similar size with less freeboard.

Envision you’re at anchor, swung facing 30 degrees to port off the prevailing headwind, your rode is tight on the anchor (hypothetically for simplicity here, no kellet, no catenary, no shock absorbers etc).

The wind shifts and suddenly swings the bow around until …bang! At 30 degrees to starboard off the prevailing headwind the rode tension spikes and the bow snaps to a halt, with the full force of the wind applied over 60 degrees of rotation, and the full yaw momentum of the boat behind it.

I think the various means of cushioning/ bridling/ preventing this are even more important in our boats than others.

- Brian.

[Divecoz]

Gentlemen I look at it this way.. for $5 or less you can prove me wrong or be among those who are glad they tried what I suggested..
Even without trying it , you should be able to imagine how and why it works...
You have 15 to 30 feet of chain laying on the bottom.. before your boat has a chance to Yank on the chain it first pulls against a rubber shock cord allowing for another 3 to 5 feet of chain to be gradually paid out.. and then to be gradually paid back .. to a major degree without you ever feeling it happening.. To Each His own..
Before I knew better I bought 1/2" Line / Rode for our because it fit my hand better than 3/8" .. What did I know? I never thought about shock values.. the fact that too large a rope would cause my boat to act poorly at anchor.. Its was several years before I learned the difference..
Bigger Is Not .. always better.. Same goes with Shrouds..

[bartmac]

We use a "anchor buddy" just google...twists onto your line and slides down and should be held above the bottom and creates a shock absorber and makes your anchor more effective....and no need for a bigger anchor.An big anchor being lifted is not as effective as a smaller one being pulled along the bottom.Mind you my reason for purchase was the Australia distributor was quitting his stock so much cheaper

[DaveB]

Chuck,
Useing a small (5-8 lb) rubber coated mushroom anchor at the rope to chain splice with 30 ft. of chain will give you a much better shock and holding power in heavy wind & waves. I assume this is much like you mentioned. The rubber coated will save deck damage.
Dave

A Sentinel is a big help when you do not have enough chain. I use one in the San Juans and Puget Sound all the time.

"Using an anchor weight, kellet or sentinel

Lowering a concentrated, heavy weight down the anchor line – rope or chain – directly in front of the bow to the seabed, behaves like a heavy chain rode and lowers the angle of pull on the anchor.[23] If the weight is suspended off the seabed it acts as a spring or shock absorber to dampen the sudden actions that are normally transmitted to the anchor and can cause it to dislodge and drag. In light conditions, a kellet will reduce the swing of the vessel considerably. In heavier conditions these effects disappear as the rode becomes straightened and the weight ineffective. Known as a "anchor chum weight" or "angel" in the UK"

Chuck

[Catigale]

...and the requirement that anything on board provides three functions is met by:

1 Anchor kellet as Dave notes

2 Rear anchor to reduce the Mac Dance

3 Anchor for tender

[Divecoz]

2 out of 3 aint bad.. ( #1 & #3 ) I say that because I would have to see it to believe it, that a small rubber coated mushroom anchor would do anything for a boat such as a 26' Mac..Even to tame the dance.. I say that because it / they didn't work on my 17' ski boat..

...and the requirement that anything on board provides three functions is met by:

1 Anchor kellet as Dave notes

2 Rear anchor to reduce the Mac Dance

3 Anchor for tender

[DaveB]

Divecoz,
Your missing the point, a small dingy mushroom anchor is lead with a plastic coating, you need to attach this at the rope to anchor splice.
What this does is to drop the center of force to the end of of rope chain splice on lets say a 30 ft 1/4 proof coil chain.
This is like adding 5/16/3/8 chain on your normal chain that is hard to retrive because of it's weight, adding a muchroom anchor when you know your going to get blasted with High winds.
This system is only used in poor holding grounds or high winds and waves.
We don't have Anchor Windlass on our boats , we want to retrive a light rope and anchor.
Thats why a small mushroom works great in a blow.
Center of effort is now located 30 ft. behind the anchor and has a much more diging of anchor and reduces big time on breaking the anchor loose.
Dave

2 out of 3 aint bad.. ( #1 & #3 ) I say that because I would have to see it to believe it, that a small rubber coated mushroom anchor would do anything for a boat such as a 26' Mac..Even to tame the dance.. I say that because it / they didn't work on my 17' ski boat..

...and the requirement that anything on board provides three functions is met by:

1 Anchor kellet as Dave notes of a 30 ft.

2 Rear anchor to reduce the Mac Dance

3 Anchor for tender