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I have a 26M. The transom drain kept plugging up, so I installed a larger drain and hose and disconnected it from the sink drain.
It makes it easier to blow out each drain. I do like the screen idea and will do that before I launch the boat next Spring.
I pulled mine out last Saturday

I had good success with using a white plastic kitchen sink drain strainer. I pulled the center plug out leaving just the strainer basket. Added to that a plastic plug from the hardware store, similar to the ones all over the interior of the boat. I installed it upside down over the hole using 3M super trim adhesive tape. This allows plenty of drainage and is still cleanable via the removable plug. The white plastic blends in.

As far as clearing the drain before installation, I was a bit more adventuresome. I had someone hold the sink drain plug in place and hit the transom drain hole with compressed air. A bit more powerful impulse than a water hose.

Has anyone considered/tried replacing that catheter entirely with a dedicated 1.5" PVC drain or the like running straight out? Or is that how you did it? Actually I do wonder why the well should be drained through the hull at all, and not just out a channel. I guess there must be a reason it was done that way, but I can't figure it.

- Nick

Max Entropy wrote:Has anyone considered/tried replacing that catheter entirely with a dedicated 1.5" PVC drain or the like running straight out? Or is that how you did it? Actually I do wonder why the well should be drained through the hull at all, and not just out a channel. I guess there must be a reason it was done that way, but I can't figure it.- Nick

I really like this idea but the fact that we have two different fiberglass shells we want to link with a solid conduit without leaking inside the boat is problematic.

RobertB wrote:

Max Entropy wrote:Has anyone considered/tried replacing that catheter entirely with a dedicated 1.5" PVC drain or the like running straight out? Or is that how you did it? Actually I do wonder why the well should be drained through the hull at all, and not just out a channel. I guess there must be a reason it was done that way, but I can't figure it.- Nick

I really like this idea but the fact that we have two different fiberglass shells we want to link with a solid conduit without leaking inside the boat is problematic.

I agree, seems to me that a rebate in the well allowing it to drain directly wd have been a simpler design, but doing that retroactively is not simple at all.

I never like the "T" piece so I replaced it with a " Y " piece which seems to make a reduce the blockages

If you haven't got a hose pipe handy any old water fire extinguisher up the hole works wonders.

You might try this preventative remedy.
A continuous loop line ( maybe 1/4" thick ) tied thru the drain from the motor well down and out the transom exit hole, and back up to the motor well, ends tied together, with the knot small enough to pass thru the drain as well. Leave it only loose enough to pull with your hands, but not so as to get fouled in the motor prop or linkages.
Work the line back and forth thru the drain when it becomes clogged, the knot's passage thru a test of the drain's being clear of obstructions. Worked great for mine, which was subject to leaves and pine needles accumulating.

Ours isn't linked to the sink anymore as I installed a seperate one but whenever it blocks just reverse flush with a hose either from mains or from the water pump in the boat via our shower fitting, could pay to put some netting over the drain hole but I haven't bothered.

This drain was a disaster right from the go. It clogged with everything. I contemplated all the suggested fixes, but then just made of flat turkshead knot, and dropped it over the drain. No more problems. Its out of 3/8 line, and I guess I could add a few spots of velcro to hold it down, but it seems to do ok as is. been on the trailer for months, and no more full well, with mosquitos breeding in it. I would use a braided line next time, not three strand. Easy t clean and cheap to replace if needed.
Ix

FAIRLY EASY TO JUST GET RID OF IT.In my case I reduced the depth of the transom well to just below the mount bolts for engine, so it is only about three inches deep with a 1/2" drain hole bored directly thru the transom, the only messy part is inside the boat where you need to do a little glass work to join the transom to the cockpit motor well structure, I just faired the seem out with Bondoglass to get a smooth transition then added several layers of heavy mat.A side benefit of this is by joining the two structures together you add a huge amount of stiffness and strength to the transom. Messy but easily done for a weekend project.