26X swingkeel

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Thanks for the tips on dyneema cause I had been considering switching to that. I think my first replacement came from BWY so I presume that they use a normal double braid yacht line...probably lasts around 7-8 years with my usage patterns I'm thinking. Btw, if you don't get that stopper knot just right, I've heard about the keel getting stuck in the trunk due to the knot bulge. When I replaced mine, I replicated the exact position of the single stopper knot like it had been on the stock line and it has never given me any trouble.

[Newell]

Thanks for the tips on dyneema cause I had been considering switching to that.

There are several reasons I went with Amsteel, one is that it isn't a doublebraid. My old Dyneema line was failing because the cover parted and exposed the core (dyneema?) and this old core had UV problems from what I understand. Amsteel is aparently "AmSteel®-Blue is made of genuine Dyneema SK-75 synthetic fiber." So a more UV resistant dyneema?

Some advertising comments:
Made with genuine Amsteel®-Blue synthetic rope
85% lighter than steel wire cable
30% higher breaking strength than steel wire cable
Safer. Won't snapback in the event of breakage
Torque-free
Easy to handle
Floats in water
Made in the USA

My best reason for using it was that a friend gave me spool of used line. I have also modified the connection to the CB, so the knot is in the formed depression and passes through the board twice for both a better attachment and a better angle in relation to the mast support tube.

[DaveB]

I have used Amsteel 1/8 line on a 4 to one 1 inch diameter wheels and is excellent on my previous Potter 19 cast iron dagger board.
I didn't use it on my MacX centerboard as no one at the time could do a Eye Splice connecting to centerboard Bolt.
This is very important so the line is in the grove slot of the centerboard. And knot can bind bringing up the centerboard and previous owner did so with a heavy groove in the trunk.(I had to sand and built up that worn grove with epoxy/ mesh)
I now have a rigger who can splice Amsteel for a small eye and will replace line to 1/4 inch Amsteel. Way over kill but one needs grip.
I am currently using Sta lock that's a reinforced Braided line with very low stretch, past 4 years.
Original 1997 MacX has a wire to rope for centerboard. This connection they made attached to centerboard will carve a line in the centerboard trunk so deep it may penetrate the trunk, allowing water to come in the hull.
Dave

Thanks for the tips on dyneema cause I had been considering switching to that.

There are several reasons I went with Amsteel, one is that it isn't a doublebraid. My old Dyneema line was failing because the cover parted and exposed the core (dyneema?) and this old core had UV problems from what I understand. Amsteel is aparently "AmSteel®-Blue is made of genuine Dyneema SK-75 synthetic fiber." So a more UV resistant dyneema?

Some advertising comments:
Made with genuine Amsteel®-Blue synthetic rope
85% lighter than steel wire cable
30% higher breaking strength than steel wire cable
Safer. Won't snapback in the event of breakage
Torque-free
Easy to handle
Floats in water
Made in the USA

My best reason for using it was that a friend gave me spool of used line. I have also modified the connection to the CB, so the knot is in the formed depression and passes through the board twice for both a better attachment and a better angle in relation to the mast support tube.

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

I thought Amsteel blue was dyneema line

So I just looked up when I did my CB job and replaced the line, it was 8 years ago and now the outer sheathing is getting frayed again but i might go a couple more years before I get nervous enough to replace it again...the first line apparently lasted 6 years. So, is that good, getting 8-10 years out of a regular yacht braid or should I try some amsteel blue next time I wonder. I wouldn't want to go to a smaller diameter line, hard on the hands and the cam cleat.

Seems like the replacement line I got from BWY lasted longer than the original line but that might also be because the area where the line enters the compression post is probably a little bit more worn now so probably doesn't chafe the line as bad any more as when the boat was new. I thought I read somewhere that Amsteel blue has the best chafe resistance of any line.

Dave, I don't know what you are talking about wrt connecting the line to a CB bolt. Mine is just a hole with the line going through and a stopper knot on one side. As long as the knot is properly done and flattened out, it doesn't bind at all in the trunk. I've had no problems with mine for the last 8 years since I dropped it last. But I would hate to lose that line in a bad maneuvering situation so probably best not to let it get too frayed.

[DaveB]

Dimitri,
My 1997 MacX has a channel in the centerboard and originally was attached with wire to rope connection. The Wire was attached to the centerboard with a fitting that put deep grove in the side of trunk. You may not have this in your 2000 model year.
To correct the problem was to eye spice amsteel or at time I replaced 4 years ago Sta set 2 braided line.(I had a rigger put a 1/2 inch eye in the Sta line)
No knots.
When I change again it will be 1/4 amsteel as I now have a rigger that can do a Eye splice at the centerboard bolt for amsteel.
Dave

Dave, I don't know what you are talking about wrt connecting the line to a CB bolt. Mine is just a hole with the line going through and a stopper knot on one side. As long as the knot is properly done and flattened out, it doesn't bind at all in the trunk. I've had no problems with mine for the last 8 years since I dropped it last. But I would hate to lose that line in a bad maneuvering situation so probably best not to let it get too frayed.