MacGregorSailors.com

Are you talking about the trailer license, syphen? The registration numbers along the boat bow (which I was talking about - I probably shouldn't have said license?) stay the same for the life of the boat, AFAIK. I have stuck the numbers on the last few boats, and they've been new, but I'm sure they stayed on for the next owners too. The trailer license needs to be your own and nobody else's, so I think you need one for yourself - but the license bureau will help you with that stuff.

- Brian.

In the states I think the registration numbers on boats and trailers change just like cars.

Guessing here- but it might be related to whether the new owner is in the same province (or state?) as the seller, in which case the numbers remain.

My congrats - and a touch of envy - 26D's are reputed to be "wicked fast".

Can anyone measure their deck top to daggerboard height with their daggerboard fully extended?

Can't measure, when on the trailer, but the max draft is 5.33 feet. (waterline down, with board extended).
Here's a page with all the specs............ (scroll down)

http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?CLASS_ID=4099


Best Breezes,
Steve K.

dlandersson wrote:My congrats - and a touch of envy - 26D's are reputed to be "wicked fast".

We used to race an '81 Tanzer 26 frequently against MacGregor 26D's and 26S's at my local club in the white sails fleet. The D certainly had the speed on par with the Tanzer 26 but didn't quite seem to point as well. That could be a tuning issue with those boats however. I may have to trailer the boat over to the other lake and race my step-father and his T26. A little one on one solo match racing. I also don't know if the Ruddercraft rudder/tiller assembly helps this boat but reports of weather helm with other 26D owners don't really seem to be present. In the few times I've had it out, its performed quite admirably. The 'Admiral' (as you folks colloquially like to refer to them as) and I took it out with a nice steady 10kt breeze and it handled very well. I am starting to think about spinnaker hardware already though

Steve K wrote:

Can anyone measure their deck top to daggerboard height with their daggerboard fully extended?

Can't measure, when on the trailer, but the max draft is 5.33 feet. (waterline down, with board extended).
Here's a page with all the specs............ (scroll down)
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?CLASS_ID=4099
Best Breezes,
Steve K.

Thanks Steve! Math time!

Total draft fully extended board - 64"
Total draft board full raised - 15"
Total board exposed length below hull - 49"
Daggerboard length - 60"
So fully extended there should be about 11-12" of board still within the trunk so the top of the daggerboard should 48" below deck surface. And then the stopper knot in the preventor line should be tied the 48" Plus the length to get to the eyelet (Assuming that the board is the exact length of the trunk - which I think its pretty close).

I just submitted the change of owner form last week. In Virginia if both parties are residents and the boat is registered in VA, then the registration on the boat remains the same. Different plates for the trailer of course.

NavySailor wrote:I just submitted the change of owner form last week. In Virginia if both parties are residents and the boat is registered in VA, then the registration on the boat remains the same. Different plates for the trailer of course.

Same here.
Makes sense as many folks have the numbers painted on the bow. Paperwork is all new, but the states allow the numbers to remain. Of course the numbers have the state of registration in the letters, so as long as the state of reg doesn't change it works well.

So fully extended there should be about 11-12" of board still within the trunk so the top of the daggerboard should 48" below deck surface. And then the stopper knot in the preventor line should be tied the 48" Plus the length to get to the eyelet (Assuming that the board is the exact length of the trunk - which I think its pretty close).

Okay, so when you have her out next time, take a look down the trunk (in calm water and not moving). The top of the dagger board should be the same as, or a little above the water level in the trunk.
I would say to leave the preventer/ stop line a little long until you have made this observation, in case you end up needing to lengthen it a little.
The top of the board should never be below the water level in the trunk, MacGregor warns

RudderCraft rudder (the new fiberglass one) is a good design. I have redesigned my stock rudder to move the leading edge a couple inches forward. This was a great improvement, imho. To me the boat handles better, with less effort on the tiller (almost like power steering, but still gives you the feedback that we tiller sailors like). Also, I like the way the boat will sail, without falling off, or heading up, with the tiller locked on the centerline (of course, this takes balanced sail trim). I have also fared my rudder to a, pretty much, perfect NACA-0012 foil shape. The factory rudder has some flat spots (even some dips) along the chord.

My boat points very high. It amazes me. I think a good tight rig and very little mast rake is the key. (along with good sails of course) I use a full batten, loose foot mainsl......... nothing special about my head sails though.

Let me qualify the above by saying............... I'm no expert and I don't race very often, but I like the challenge of getting the very best out of each boat I've owned. I've had this 26D for about eight years, btw.

You can beat a Tanzer 26

Hope this is helpful info
Best Breezes,
SK

Great looking boat!!