Polishing Oxidation ??

[seahouse]

Nu Finish is a good product, lasts a long time, but it is not a wax by the conventional definition. If you do apply Nu Finish, be aware that it penetrates into the surface of the porous gel coat (well, it even penetrates automotive finishes) and you will not be able to paint the surface in the future.

[raycarlson]

Not exactly true. Been using Nufinish since 1978 on every vehicle boat motorcycle ever owned. correct it is not a wax, it's a silicone polymer with petroleum distillates, which can make for poor adhesion and bonding of paints and coatings. Nufinish has been a Consumer Reports best buy item for many decades and is reasonably priced. As with any paint or gelcoat project if one uses proper cleaning and surface prep practices you will not have any problem painting or gelcoating over an area previously waxed with Nufinish. The main focus will be in making sure you have all the silicone cleaned from the surface which acetone will easily take care of in three steps. If you are not well practiced in surface prepping then yes you could very well have problems, but never if you've prepped correctly.

[seahouse]

Ray is correct, silicone is the culprit ingredient to be careful of, paint won't stick to it.

For success in the painting, what's important to be aware of is that what is "proper" prepping procedure of the surface for all other situations is not adequate for a silicone-impregnated surface, and that extra measures must be taken, (and still with no guarantee of success, some auto body shops will refuse to do body work if they know a silicone product was used on the surface). It's difficult to get every last bit of it dissolved and soaked back out.

Also note that stronger (and nastier) solvents like toluene and xyxlene are a better choice for "proper" surface prep (it's what the "pro's" use) than acetone, because silicone dissolves fully in them, while it is only partially soluble in acetone.

[NiceAft]

I went through my old posts and realized that I had posted pics of the painted stripes.

This photo shows the painted starboard stripe and a partial of the unpainted grid area on the forewarn cabin. The difference in depth of black color does not bother me. Safely walking there is more important


If you look closely at this shot of the upper port stripe, you can see the brush strokes. You only see them up close, and then only if you look for them. As stated previously, if someone voices disapproval of my paint job, they are too anal to be on my boat. If we are already sailing, they may have to walk the plank

I should add that the boat had many years of waxing before painting the stripes, and I am sure I tried Nu Finish also. The wax stripper I used seems to have worked well, even on the Nu Finnish (which is not a wax). When I go into work tomorrow, I will have to read the content ingredients label.

Ray

[dlandersson]

Anyone have anything new to add to this topic? It's a perrenial (sp?) concern.

Hello all.

I have the Mac 26, 2 years old. It's a good boat.

QUESTIONS: The two black stripes on the upper hull are fading, getting a white chalky look to them.

Is that chalkiness Oxidation ITSELF, the black part; or is it oxidation from the white above, that's running down onto the black? (Because it'll affect what method I use to clean it off.)
To clean, do you recommend a buffer, like McGuires, slight grit, then a polishing compound? Or just something like Barkeeper's Friend http://www.barkeepersfriend.com/
Or Windex and Pledge?

I note that the black striping below the rubber line (lower hull) is still perfect. That's why I was wondering if it was run-down from the white above.

I'm worried that if I use a (small grit) cleaning compound, even freom a good company like McGuires, that it'll scratch it. But then I wonder if it's a good idea to use NU FINISH to make it pretty again.

Thank you'

[Russ]

I'm tempted to do as Ray has done, just paint the black. It's a never-ending annual battle.

[Stickinthemud57]

I used Owatrol Marine Polytrol Gel Coat Restorer last time around and it has performed nicely. Annual maintenance of the gel coat will likely still be on my list, regardless.

https://www.owatrolusa.com/product/marine-polytrol/

[Herschel]

I am sure there are a lot of different approaches. I suspect the area of country/world (i.e., exposure to UV) will have considerable bearing. I used Nu Glass 2 three times in a Florida marina context. I found that it lasted about 6 months and began to peel/flake. Since it required a prep of absolute cleaning of all old Nu Glass 2 product and other possible contaminates, I found it was laborious to keep up with. So, I switched four years ago to Collinite No. 920 cleaner and Collinite heavy duty No. 885 Fleetwax. I used a professional boat detailer for two years, but he moved on to be a towboat US captain. He thought it was a great product. So, now I hire my best friend's son and we knock it out in about three hours from gunwale to gunwale. We do that twice a year. Fall and late spring. The sides go about 2-3 years before I pull her up on the trailer and do the whole boat. that is a job!

[Russ]

I used Owatrol Marine Polytrol Gel Coat Restorer last time around and it has performed nicely. Annual maintenance of the gel coat will likely still be on my list, regardless.

https://www.owatrolusa.com/product/marine-polytrol/

This looks interesting. Was it easy to use? Did it last or was it simply to remove oxidization?

[Stickinthemud57]

I used Owatrol Marine Polytrol Gel Coat Restorer last time around and it has performed nicely. Annual maintenance of the gel coat will likely still be on my list, regardless.

https://www.owatrolusa.com/product/marine-polytrol/

This looks interesting. Was it easy to use? Did it last or was it simply to remove oxidization?

Yes, I found it easy to use. It's not for removal of oxidation, rather it penetrates the gel coat to restore gloss and luster and provides protection from further oxidation.

Instructions call for removal of dirt and heavy oxidation with Owatrol Deck Cleaner. I used a similar product. You wipe it on, let it sit for 5 minutes or so, then wipe it off. 10 minutes is too long, so work in small sections.

Keep in mind that if you have oxidized white gel coat adjacent to the area you are treating that this product will produce a gloss that will make it appear a tad darker. You might want to consider masking if you want to avoid this.

So really, no more work than polishing and buffing. Because it actually penetrates and doesn't just sit on the surface, it lasts much longer than wax. A little goes a long way, and I expect the can I have will last another five years at least.

[Russ]

Interesting product. I tend to use a polish or light compound each year. That concerns me that I might wear through the gel coat one day.

I may pick some up and try, certainly on the black raccoon stripes which are a constant PITA.

[Stickinthemud57]

Interesting product. I tend to use a polish or light compound each year. That concerns me that I might wear through the gel coat one day.

I may pick some up and try, certainly on the black raccoon stripes which are a constant PITA.

I can personally recommend it. It will be interesting to see how it looks at its one-year anniversary.

Something I have noticed with old gel coats is that rubbing motor oil on will temporarily add luster and gloss. Apparently Owatrol has developed a formula that works on and below the surface and does not evaporate away. They make products for wood, metal, and fiberglass as well as paint additives, so they have some history to back them up.

[Herschel]

Interesting product. I tend to use a polish or light compound each year. That concerns me that I might wear through the gel coat one day.

I may pick some up and try, certainly on the black raccoon stripes which are a constant PITA.

I can personally recommend it. It will be interesting to see how it looks at its one-year anniversary.

Something I have noticed with old gel coats is that rubbing motor oil on will temporarily add luster and gloss. Apparently Owatrol has developed a formula that works on and below the surface and does not evaporate away. They make products for wood, metal, and fiberglass as well as paint additives, so they have some history to back them up.

I noticed on the webpage for this product that it is not intended for white hulls or surfaces. I see you guys have the blue Macs. Do you use it on your white decks and cockpit or just the blue hulls and black stripe?