fishstalker7 wrote:PS...once I re-wired the fixture...those LEDs worked fine in case anyone else wants to mix red/white
You know, if you wanted to have fun, place a Red and White LED in each fixture wired opposite polarity. Prob need to solder them in.
Then add a DPDT switch to the panel that reverses polarity to all fixtures. Then you could switch between Red/White at the panel for all fixtures at night.
RussMT wrote:You know, if you wanted to have fun, place a Red and White LED in each fixture wired opposite polarity. Prob need to solder them in.
Then add a DPDT switch to the panel that reverses polarity to all fixtures. Then you could switch between Red/White at the panel for all fixtures at night.
Thanks for the great idea! I haven't found switches that will fit these fixtures, and I'm not sure which is easier...change the fixtures or just swap the bulbs for longer trips??
But either way...I anticipate having the LEDs operational tonight...and then I'll figure out on the next trip if I want to take it to new fixtures, find the right switches, or keep swapping LEDs...but thank you for the idea!
I rarely ever turn on cabin lights while underway. Red lights are the way to preserve night vision, but in practice I haven't needed it.
LEDs have the built in polarity requirement that makes them fun to work with in special situations.
My steaming and anchor light share the original 2 factory wires. By reversing the polarity at the panel, I can toggle one or the other. It works very well.
I got the idea from this forum. So if I were using red LEDs in cabin lights, I'd do the same thing. There is little to no heat, so you can solder them into the fixtures without much trouble.
FWIW - the cabin light sockets on my 2008 were wired with polarity reverse to what it should be, and my first attempts to install LEDs were just as frustrating until I tested polarity. Before that I complained to the supplier about the bulbs and they sent replacements. Embarassing...
I use a relay instead off the DPDT-switch, controlled by the running light switch. The NC contacts give the correct polarity for the Anchor light to the mast-light socket, if the mast-light switch is on. If the running lights are on, the polarity to the mast-light socket switches automatically and the mast-light switch is now controlling the steaming light.
I'm not sure these days what the schematic symbols are for relays, but it's pretty self-evident as drawn. This ladder logic (below) is more like what I'm used to, but I don't do much logic and control stuff any more, so I'm probably pretty out of touch.
As to the cabin lights, it should be possible to put a toggle or rocker switch right on/in the light fixtures to reverse polarity, or at the electrical panel. Or a relay, like with the nav lights, so the cabin lights are red whenever the running lights are on.
Last edited by Tomfoolery on Wed Apr 22, 2015 11:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
Not a good diagram. You are creating twice the voltage drop on each circuit by putting in redundant rectifiers. Delete one on each circuit.
Agreed. It was the first one I found in a search.
Here's the mod I borrowed for my boat. If using LEDs, the diode is not necessary. However my anchor LED for some strange reason worked with polarity both ways so I did need a diode. http://macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?view=453
Obelix wrote:I use a relay instead off the DPDT-switch, controlled by the running light switch. The NC contacts give the correct polarity for the Anchor light to the mast-light socket, if the mast-light switch is on. If the running lights are on, the polarity to the mast-light socket switches automatically and the mast-light switch is now controlling the steaming light.
Thanks for the ideas...went red in 2x lights in main cabin and white in head/vberth...will work well for family aboard...great when soloing (50% of time).
These switches...easy to find? Radio Shack?
Anyone got a line on dual bulb fixtures or the supplies to add a 2nd housing to existing?
I modified my original cabin light fixtures by adding a second bulb socket when I changed over to LED's. The reflector is part of the electrical circuit, so I had to insulate the new socket mount with a piece of black plastic. I did this in the head light also, but did not have to add a socket, that fixture has three sockets and a switch that toggles from off-one-two lights. I pulled wires out of the hull cavity until I could access the splice joints, added a DPDT switch next to fuse panel, and went to work with my volt meter. All these lights are on one circuit, and Macgregor didn't pay much attention to polarity at each fixture. I had to rewire at splice joints, and inside fixtures to get it all to work right. I also made a change inside my new fuse panel. All interior lights are now off until I flip the top fuse panel switch, that energizes the DPDT switch, and turns on the panels backlights. The DPDT switches from off- red- white, and each fixtures original switch will turn that fixture on-off. The head light uses the same type of LED's that my anchor and masthead light do, they don't care about polarity. I did what Obelix did in the mast, with a relay. But the head light was easy, 2 red and 1 white, and can be controlled by it's switch.
Capt Smitty wrote:I modified my original cabin light fixtures by adding a second bulb socket when I changed over to LED's. The reflector is part of the electrical circuit, so I had to insulate the new socket mount with a piece of black plastic. I did this in the head light also, but did not have to add a socket, that fixture has three sockets and a switch that toggles from off-one-two lights. I pulled wires out of the hull cavity until I could access the splice joints, added a DPDT switch next to fuse panel, and went to work with my volt meter. All these lights are on one circuit, and Macgregor didn't pay much attention to polarity at each fixture. I had to rewire at splice joints, and inside fixtures to get it all to work right. I also made a change inside my new fuse panel. All interior lights are now off until I flip the top fuse panel switch, that energizes the DPDT switch, and turns on the panels backlights. The DPDT switches from off- red- white, and each fixtures original switch will turn that fixture on-off. The head light uses the same type of LED's that my anchor and masthead light do, they don't care about polarity. I did what Obelix did in the mast, with a relay. But the head light was easy, 2 red and 1 white, and can be controlled by it's switch.
Excellent!
Seems like with a little creativity these fixtures can be modified to accept 2 bulbs. LEDs have little to no heat so this is not an issue.