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I had a Honda bf50 and both square and round muffs from walmart, both worked...

I'm not actually sure what you're advising here.

When you start up your engine, make sure it's peeing, right

Remember just because an engine is peeing does not mean that water is going through it, just that the water pump works. Generally there are parallel passages, so one can be completely clogged overheating a cylinder and it still peeing full pressure. I had a clogged passage so the water pump was pushing 100% of the water out the telltale, looked great, no cooling though.

Flushing salt out is the issue for me.

I had one mechanic say NOT to use the flush port on the side of the motor, but the muffs instead. His rational is the flush port is just flushing the head, the impeller pump is not spinning and you are leaving salt in the lower unit.

Others say a quick flush is no good, the motor is not heated up enough to open the thermostat you are just "flushing" the telltale and not actually having any fresh water circulate through the motor.

Seapup wrote:I had a Honda bf50 and both square and round muffs from walmart, both worked...

I'm not actually sure what you're advising here.

When you start up your engine, make sure it's peeing, right

Remember just because an engine is peeing does not mean that water is going through it, just that the water pump works. Generally there are parallel passages, so one can be completely clogged overheating a cylinder and it still peeing full pressure. I had a clogged passage so the water pump was pushing 100% of the water out the telltale, looked great, no cooling though.

Flushing salt out is the issue for me.

I had one mechanic say NOT to use the flush port on the side of the motor, but the muffs instead. His rational is the flush port is just flushing the head, the impeller pump is not spinning and you are leaving salt in the lower unit.

Others say a quick flush is no good, the motor is not heated up enough to open the thermostat you are just "flushing" the telltale and not actually having any fresh water circulate through the motor.

I have heard the same thing so I leave mine on quite a while until the motor heats up enough to open the thermostat to let water circulate through the head.

These dual feed jobs work great.I use a small trigger clamp on it.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/sierra--d ... --10505295

BF50 with standard round muffs. Water is squirting out from under both cups, and also leaking out from under the blue painter's tape covering the small intake on the bottom of the anti-ventilation plate. Good pee stream, and lotta water coming out the exhaust in front of the prop shaft.



I was able to restrict the flow to about half without stopping the water coming out from under the cups, even at high engine speed.

Dave C: Since you have a Honda 50hp check out this older thread......
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... ee#p145587

By the way, in the past 7 years.... not one case of blockage. Before the mod, I got blocked joint 2 or 3 times per season.

opie wrote:Dave C: Since you have a Honda 50hp check out this older thread......
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... ee#p145587

By the way, in the past 7 years.... not one case of blockage. Before the mod, I got blocked joint 2 or 3 times per season.

Yeah, this is about enlarging the exit tube right? I looked this over a couple of years ago. If I have blockage problems, I'll prolly do it. Thx

Thanks for reposting the link. I've read it before, but I'd forgoten about that older thread. I use canned air (the kind for blowing out electronics) to clean out the pee-hole on my 50HP Honda every trip or two. It works good, but it's a pain to get the little red hose in the hole. I just bought the three Honda part numbers from Amazon for a total of $25.66 including freight. Hopefully, I can at least cut down on the number of times I have to hang out the back.

Jeff