How do I pull further onto the trailer?

[Mac26Mpaul]

I could never get the boat to move attempting the Macbump and that is with the bunks lubed and with a few pretty violent attempts.... I assume this is due to the bottom paint - and if so, I guess bottom paint sure must produce some drag in the water...

I must admit, I felt like a bit of a goose at the ramp when I was attempting it too

I drive a few feet out of the water so the boat is still kind of slightly buoyant and then get out and winch it hard to the v block again. This works to get the boat closer to the V block on some ramps (depending on their incline) but to be honest, I have never had the boat hard into the V block in 6.5 years

Roger should have worked this into the design of the trailer with a moveable V block ( I remember Summer made his V block adjustable).

[Sumner]

If you don't have a nearby ramp maybe try lowering the tongue as close to the ground as possible so that the boat is headed at least a little bit down hill. Spray the hull behind each bunk with the liquid rollers or at least a strong solution of soapy water. Then right away try your winch/strap to pull the boat forward before the hull dries. If you can get it to start moving, the soapy part of the hull will help the boat to move easier once onto the bunks.

If you have to drive it like above make sure the laz and rear berth are empty and put weight inside the boat as for forward as possible in the V-berth area to increase the hitch weight within reason,

Sumner

============================
1300 miles to the Bahamas and back -- 2015

The MacGregor 26-S

The Endeavour 37

Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links

[Retcoastie]

The stock trailers I have noticed have a winch mounted below the boweye of the boat when the boat is all the way forward. Pulling the cable/rope/strap tight before doing the "bump" is counterproductive. It pulls the boat down tighter on the bunks. To make the "bump" easier, loosen the cable/rope/strap just a little.

I modified our winch to make the pull above the boweye, so tightening the strap lifts the boat and reduces the friction of the bunks. I can now just turn the handle and drag the boat into the vee stop, no bump needed. Discloser: No bottom paint, waxed bottom.

Ken

[warren631]

I was curious about my tongue weight so I removed the rear supports under the transom and got out the bathroom scale ready to measure 200-300 lbs. I tried to figure out how to insert the scale under the trailer jack wheel. That was no problem. I was surprised that I could lift up the tongue (and trailer and boat) with my little finger I think it was about 2-3 lbs. The scale wouldn't turn on that low. Glad I had the sense to put rear supports under the transom before I tried to get aboard the other day. No wonder I couldn't get above 45mph before it started to sway.
I have to move the boat forward or put a few 60 lb bags of sand in the v-berth before I go on the road again.

[mrron_tx]

Yep......Do the "Mac Bump " it really makes people look at You real funny. Ron. Dauntless.

[Strike_V22]

Over the past 18 months I have towed my 1971 V-22 about 6,000 highway miles. From NY, FL, OK, NY, OK.

I have a strange way of loading. First I back in and load as far forward as I can then pull out. That’s normal but does leave the bow several inches out of the V. Then I put a strap around the cockpit to the trailer leaving it slightly slacked and back into the water again. Yes the trailer lifts off the bottom so I don’t mess around. I cranking the winch to pull the bow back into the V as far as I can. I pull out again, take up slack on the cockpit strap and I do it over and over again until I have less than 1 inch remaining. Maybe for that last inch I would risk the Mac Bump but already have nightmares of bow in the back window of the 2015 Pathfinder.

With each leg of my journey being about 1,400 miles there are other things. For sure no more than 13 inches above ground for the ball hitch. Slightly nose down she will bounce into the V because she sure will try bouncing out on uphill bad road. I had to get a 3.25 inch drop because the 2 inch wasn’t doing the job. Also a strap around cockpit pulling forward onto the trailer as if you fear she will fall off the back. Believe me when it has bounced 8 inches out of the V you’ll wish you had. I almost didn’t make it. Yes I do keep the straps tight.

Additionally roads are slanted so the rain runs off and I have had her try sliding off the right side of the trailer. After as many miles as I have towed her I can’t say I blame her for wanting to escape. So in addition to strapping the trailer to the boat I also run one from the starboard cleat under the hull and over to the left side of the trailer. I keep that one snug but remember it is only a cleat not designed to hold too much weight. So all together I have three straps holding trailer to boat, one holding her forward into the V and another pulling her stern to the left. I likely should have another going the other way just in case.

Now two things are different for me. First are the long distances and the second is that I have added a few things to the boat to make months of living on her a little better and that added up to about 500 pounds. I’ve replaced everything on the trailer but the frame. 3,200 pound axle, hubs, wheels, proper trailer tires, springs and all right down to the bolts that hold it all together.

With all that my biggest concern is forgetting she is back there. Hit 70 MPH in WV and she was very happy back there. I must say that when she is loaded up forward and centered she rides great.

[Strike_V22]

I multi load. I load normally and pull out. Then I run a strap around cockpit to trailer frame and leave it a little slack. Back in and take up on the winch and pull out. Yes the trailer wheels may leave the ramp. I keep doing that until I have her about an inch out of the V and she rides nicely. Also measure the hitch height. About a foot but no more than 13 inches. I’ve done about 6,000 miles in the last 18 months. Works for me and I’m all alone doing it.

[Egress]

Loosen the hook before doing the bump. If hook is tight it won’t slide. Discovered this trick about 12 yes’s ago.

[leefrankpierce]

Loosen the hook = sounds apparent and now I feel stupid, will try this next time.
My method:
1. park nose down hill after a failed bump attempt.
2. tighten the hook as much as possible.
3. grab the bow rail and BIG shake back and forth (I weigh 290, so can get a good shake out of it)
This moves the boat about 1-2 inch before I re-tighten the hook. It is the tension on the hook that moves the boat.
I get the same looks as when I walk behind the transom and open the ballast valve so it looks like I just dumped my sewage on my feet.

[LeePierce]

Ok, have been out sailing, put the boat on the trailer, had the normal move backwards away from the bump stop when I pulled it out of the water.
Tried unhooking the strap so there is no downward tension on the nose, did the bump... Magic happened and the boat scooted right up into the bump stop.

WAAAAAAYYYYYY easier.

Lee

[Tomfoolery]

Watch out that you don't bump too hard and drop the centerboard below the bunks. I've done that twice, the last time being when I hauled it for the winter. It's still hooked in front of the bunk, so I have to either remove the mounting bracket and reposition it, or maybe I can jack the bow enough to get it to clear and pull it back up.

Why did it do that you ask? Because (I think) the first time it happened, I had the CB most of the way up when I made my run onto the trailer, but forgot to pull it up the rest of the way as it went on. Or after, since it'll just fold, but either way, I forgot.

This time, I know I had pulled it up, but the line either jumped out of the cam cleat, or I helped it jump out some how, which is the more likely scenario. But when I 'mac bumped' it, it got hooked in front of the middle bunk. Again.

From the first time:



I have a piece of angle that I intended to bolt to the front of the cross member, with a 2-by block to catch the CB if it falls, but haven't gotten around to it yet. I think it's time to get around to it.

[March]

You guys love to play Russian roulette with the trailer, LOL?

I will NEVER attempt the MacBump again.Last summer, I was at a Miami ramp (parking lot) and simply tried to move the trailer out of the way; there were about 6 inches between the nose of the boat and the plastic roller. Speed was parking-lot speed. Pressed the brakes a little too enthusiastically, the boat slipped promptly forward, breaking the central post, denting seriously the end of my towing beast, and coming to rest with the nose five inches from the pavement. The aluminum trailer got twisted badly and I was stuck there for two days. The trailer makers (Vero Beach, 80 miles away...) wouldn't or couldn't help. Same for the insurance--they couldn't find a trailering crew daunting enough to attempt to move the precariously balanced boat. It was a nightmare.

I will stick with the old chicken method: crank the boat as much as I can, pull the trailer half way to the ramp, wait for the ballast tank to empty, close the ballast gate and back it up into the water. Crank the boat closer to the post. Repeat if needed.

If usually leaves me with no more than two inches between the plastic roller and the nose of the boat. I can live with that

[Tomfoolery]

Of course, the best solution, short of using all rollers, would be to make a readily adjustable bow stop so that in the forward position, you load the boat to the stop, and after it rotates back and away when pulled up the ramp, you move the stop back to meet the boat. The forward position would be the correct position for the boat on the trailer once hauled, with the stop moved back to provide support and stability on the road.

I should look into that, too.

Edit: I think Sumner did something like that for his 26 Classic, in fact, along with moving the winch.

[sailboatmike]

The problem seems to get worse as the steepness of the ramp increase, as stated before the main reason for the issue is the winch pulling down on the bow eye meaning your actually pulling the bow into the bow bunk, the harder you pull up the more you push the bow into the bow bunk, it becomes very much self defeating.

The second issue is that we have to have the trailer in so deep to float on because of the bow bunk, I'm seriously thinking of putting a roller just before the bow bunk so I dont have to dunk the trailer so far, this will also help reduce the fall back from the bow stop

[dlandersson]

I'm a real fan of liquid roller or it's peer products.