Working on Steel 2005 Mac Trailer

A forum for discussing issues relating to trailers and towing MacGregor sailboats.
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Herschel
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Re: Working on Steel 2005 Mac Trailer

Post by Herschel »

Tom's response helps. I guess I'll just add a little.
Yes, that does help. Thanks. 8)
New question about disk brakes. Does anyone know what to do, if they are slightly engaged when the trailer is not connected to the tow vehicle. (i.e., when you turn the wheel they grind slightly, but the wheel still turns). Is there a trick to keeping them maintained when you don't use the trailer very often? Boat is in a marina slip; just use it to pull boat out for certain maintenance tasks like 100 hour service on engine and installation of gear. :?
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Russ
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Re: Working on Steel 2005 Mac Trailer

Post by Russ »

Herschel wrote: Thu Feb 27, 2020 2:36 pm
Tom's response helps. I guess I'll just add a little.
Yes, that does help. Thanks. 8)
New question about disk brakes. Does anyone know what to do, if they are slightly engaged when the trailer is not connected to the tow vehicle. (i.e., when you turn the wheel they grind slightly, but the wheel still turns). Is there a trick to keeping them maintained when you don't use the trailer very often? Boat is in a marina slip; just use it to pull boat out for certain maintenance tasks like 100 hour service on engine and installation of gear. :?
I don't know if this is your issue, but my discs RUST when idle. Then they "grind" slightly. Once that rust is removed by the first braking, the wheels move freely.
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Tomfoolery
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Re: Working on Steel 2005 Mac Trailer

Post by Tomfoolery »

Russ wrote: Thu Feb 27, 2020 6:34 pm I don't know if this is your issue, but my discs RUST when idle. Then they "grind" slightly. Once that rust is removed by the first braking, the wheels move freely.
Same here. Always a bit sticky when it's been sitting and I back it into the garage with my little tractor for wheel bearing inspection/replacement. If I drive it, launch the boat, and then back it into the garage, the wheels spin freely.
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Herschel
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Re: Working on Steel 2005 Mac Trailer

Post by Herschel »

Not sure if anyone is watching this thread any more, but I gotta tell someone that understands this stuff, that I am "turning the final curve" to bring my "resurrect my '98 dual axle steel trailer" project to the finish line. Had both the stern and midships cross members to which the bunks are attached replaced and welded into frame of trailer by a metal fabricator pro ($700). Ground down all the rest of the surface rust areas (and a small piece of my middle finger on my left hand; I'd add a pick of that , but you might be offended :D ) Put on the two coats of POR15, correctly applied, plus two coats of "topcoat" Rust-oleum. New winch installed (had to order shorter handle (6 inch; came with 8 inch) to clear bow guides), new bow roller installed at bow bunks, new spare tire mount, new rubber handle for the trailer tongue elevation winch. Got tired of getting my hand pinched between the handle and the cap nut. Learned how to get "cap nuts" with decades of rust off---finally! :P Mostly just have left to build new bunks, carpet them, and attach to cross members. I bought a less powerful grease gun so I, hopefully, will deal with my bearing buddies with a less heavy hand and not blow out rear seals as last time. Will need to have my 2013-installed disk brakes checked out by a pro. Not familiar with that gear enough to know what to do. They rub a little when you turn the front tires. That and remount lights and license plate, and I am back in business. I'll wait on the picture until it is all finished, but my hope is to get another ten years of use out of this puppy. I'll be 85 y/o then and most likely ready to pass on my "X" to a younger man and his "admiral". :)
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Jimmyt
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Re: Working on Steel 2005 Mac Trailer

Post by Jimmyt »

Looking forward to pics. Sounds like it will be good to go when you wrap up. How'd you come out cost-wise vs a new one (or do you have a final projected cost yet)?
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Herschel
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Re: Working on Steel 2005 Mac Trailer

Post by Herschel »

Tomfoolery wrote: Fri Feb 28, 2020 4:37 am
Russ wrote: Thu Feb 27, 2020 6:34 pm I don't know if this is your issue, but my discs RUST when idle. Then they "grind" slightly. Once that rust is removed by the first braking, the wheels move freely.
Same here. Always a bit sticky when it's been sitting and I back it into the garage with my little tractor for wheel bearing inspection/replacement. If I drive it, launch the boat, and then back it into the garage, the wheels spin freely.
Thanks for this. Sorry to say, I had not noticed that the thread went to a second page. Just saw this post. Hopefully, a little braking, and I'll be OK. As to cost, I think I am in the neighborhood of $1,200. I'll do a final summation when all is done. The POR15 is expensive, plus the new spare tire bracket, bow roller and mounting hardware, winch, and a ton of stainless steel bolts and screws for the bunks. I "invested" in a hydraulic jack, two jack stands, a new sander, and a host of miscellaneous "shop supplies" like throw-away brushes. The professional welding and new cross beams at $700 were, of course, the major expense. I had switched the lights over to LED about 4-5 years ago, so no new expense there. I had a new coupler put on when I went to disk brakes several years ago, so that was fine.
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