New 26X owner, going to need a lot of help!

[NiceAft]

The long hose in the head is not standard.

I believe that long hose is a vent for pumping out the porta potty.
If I am correct, there should be another hose for the pump out conection.

[dlandersson]

Ditto

The mast doesn't seem to be properly stored either. the spreaders are resting on the lifelines, putting tension on the spreaders and lifelines . I'm guessing they should be maneuvered under the lifelines?

[Tomfoolery]

The long hose in the head is not standard.

I believe that long hose is a vent for pumping out the porta potty.
If I am correct, there should be another hose for the pump out conection.

My guess, too, as that's how my Porta-Potti is connected. It's the MSD version, with pumpout and vent hose connections, though I've never actually pumped it out. I installed it to make the authorities in Ontario happy if I got boarded, as technically non-MSD units, which have to be removed to be dumped, are not legal in Canadian Lake Ontario waters, and presumably other lakes like Simcoe.

I think that vent through-hull is a bit low, though, as I can lay the boat over pretty far, which would put it under the water. That can be easily fixed by looping the hose up to the cabin roof then down to the head. Like the drain hose from a dishwasher to a garbage disposal. You can't lay the boat over far enough to start taking on water through the hose if it's looped high.

[Russ]

Congrats on the acquisition.

I looks like you have a bare boat to work with and some fiberglass work to do.
It will clean up nice. It appears someone power washed some of the grime off. Power wash and bleach will clean most of it.

As you mentioned, the standing water will have done its damage already and I doubt it has done damage. This boat doesn't have a typical bilge.
The heater in the cabin is fighting 15 degree temps the hull is against. Probably a losing battle until exterior temps come up a bit. I would still try and get it out just so stuff won't grow when it melts. I recently read how an owner used things like a turkey baster and a super soaker to extract water from hard to reach places.

Post more. This Macgregor community loves a good boat project. Suggest making a new thread for each topic to keep suggestions targeted.

[SlowSL]

Yes, they should be under the lifelines, and the Genoa should not be resting on any spreader.
I don't know what others do, but I have always zipped tied it to the mast. I have never has a problem in fifteen years. Others may have alternatives.

I will be strapping to the mast before the tarp goes on this weekend.

Spend some time on the Blue Water Yachts website: www.bwyachts.com. Make a list and start checking it twice. I know you said you'll need a mainsail. I'm guessing you'll also need a new rubrail kit after you fix the bow pulpit. More, more, more, ....
I'd also recommend the Boatworks Today youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0kDqq ... Uk3oTaHBuA He has a lot of videos that will teach you how to do fiberglass repair.
If you post your list here, you'll get lots of advice on how to tackle each project. We will hopefully even give some good advice
Jeff

I've scoured over both of these sources even before buying a boat, good info. The previous 26C I almost purchase also had some minor fiberglass damage, and needed some new parts.

The long hose in the head is not standard.

I believe that long hose is a vent for pumping out the porta potty.
If I am correct, there should be another hose for the pump out conection.

I believe I saw a port on the top deck somewhere that was labeled "pumpout".

I think that vent through-hull is a bit low, though, as I can lay the boat over pretty far, which would put it under the water. That can be easily fixed by looping the hose up to the cabin roof then down to the head. Like the drain hose from a dishwasher to a garbage disposal. You can't lay the boat over far enough to start taking on water through the hose if it's looped high.

Nice observation, I will keep an eye on it, if it goes under the waterline I will raise the hose as you suggestion, great idea!

This boat doesn't have a typical bilge.
Post more. This Macgregor community loves a good boat project. Suggest making a new thread for each topic to keep suggestions targeted.

I've read that people had a hard time deciding where to put a bilge since there is not one by design, and there are multiple areas that may accumulate water. The boat came with a 12v pump, but it's not installed anywhere. I'm thinking an emergency manual pump, or bail bucket would be a good idea to store. Where would the lowest point in the boat be thern when the boat is level? I'm thinking it's not in the stern, I pulled over for gas before the freezing weather, parking on a hill with the boat tilted up by about 10-15 degree, and water started coming out of the drain plug.

[SlowSL]

Here are the first batch of questions.....
I am considering buying a new sail from BWY, but would really like to start off with a used sail with some mileage on it for now, and consider new sails later down the road. I've seen some cheap ones on the marketplace from other boats, but didn't know if they were fairly universal or not. Assuming the luff (24.67") & foot (10.33") are not longer than the sail specs for the X... https://www.sailrite.com/Macgregor-26-X-Sail-Data, will it work? It seems the sails are also different between the Macgregor's. Doesn't appear that the C or M would work with the X. I know a used sail will be blown out and not sail as well as a new one, but we are talking $200 vs. $800. Also, assuming I'd be installing a bimini later down the road, would it be wise to find a sail that is not quite as long so that the boom will not interfere with the bimini under sail?
Is the cunningham still as effective on a loose footed sail since it doesn't seem that the center of the foot will be pulled down?
Do you guys feel that a 2nd reef point is needed at all, or should one be enough?
Does your mast bend slightly aft when in the storage position, or is it fairly straight? Looks like mine is. I'd assume that mast bend is introduced when rigged and even more with proper outhaul/downhaul?
Is the deck/cockpit gelcoat, or paint? I'd assume gelcoat. Also, the polished fiberglass inside, is that colored fiberglass, or is there some kind of coating on it?
With a wheel instead of a tiller, is it possible to feel when the boat is off balance, such as when you experience tiller tug?
Is there a resource somewhere that has the pulpit mounting dimensions? Since mine is pulled out and bent, I will need to get dimensions on what it needs to be.
I know there are a lot of variables here, but around what hp would it take to get beyond hull speed, say 6+knots?
I see some complain that they are not able to get up on plane, even with 40-50hp motors, are there known motor/prop configurations that are optimal to get up on plane?
regular, long or extra long shaft needed?
Is it okay to trailer with the rudders up and strapped down?
There is a ton of rudder slop, should I shim them up to prevent unnecessary slop?
Not including navigation, are there any must have electronics? I'd assume a depth sonar is a must, anything else?
I have no winch handle, are they universal? If not, what style, brand is needed?
Was the furler standard on all X models?
would it be wise to buy a ballast checker tube? Is the vent hole designed to be above the waterline, or water continue to fill until it overflows out of the vent? I know this may change with more weight in the boat.
There was not factory fresh water tank, was there? Do I just need to find a freshwater tank and an on demand pump, or are there other options? I see a lot of posts and ideas on them.

[NiceAft]

I don't know, and I'm too lazy to check if anyone asked if you had a manual. some of the questions you asked I'm sure are in the manual; such as rudders up or down during trailering.

This is the manual for the 1996 The next year for an manual I believe is 2002.

file:///C:/Users/Owner/AppData/Local/Temp/MacGregor26X_Manual_1996.pdf

If this link doesn't work, go to resources and look up the correct manual.

[Jimmyt]

https://macgregorsailors.com/resources/ ... l_1996.pdf

I can't see your pics, so sorry if I'm missing something obvious.

Paying $200 for a used sail that wasn't made for your boat doesn't seem like the best idea. I'd buy a new sail if you can. You can save the $600 elsewhere. If you get a new sail, I'd get two reef points. If you find yourself in a good blow, you'll be glad to have them.

Where will you be sailing? Inland lake with known depths or uncharted waters? I've been sailing in a bay with a sandy bottom for about 5 years. Just got a depthfinder. I know the water pretty well, and the depth changes gradually (except at the edge of the ship channel). I've got an M with a fiberglass dagger which will break if I ground it hard or let it side slip while grounded. Your boat has a swing keel, which takes a running grounding much better. You still don't want to side load it while grounded.

Water systems are optional the first season in my opinion. Get a 4 or 5 gallon jug with a valve on it. That will do the job for the first season.

You need to post pictures of your rudder fit so X owners can see if there are any problems.

I tow with the rudders up, but I have safety lines to be sure they don't come loose.



If you put a big Bimini on, you made need to raise the boom connection on the mast. This will mean having a custom sail made. If you go this route, you'll probably want to mount the Bimini and work from that before you spend money on sails.

A wheel will not feel like a tiller. You will get the feel of it, but it's not a tiller. You can tell when it's out of balance.
You need to get a quick disconnect kit for the outboard, to disconnect it from the steering when under sail. The outboard flopping around on the steering takes all of the feel out of the helm. Make this a high priority.

Use the boat before you think about re-powering. You can sail and enjoy your boat with a 10hp (my opinion). It will probably do over 6 knots with 10hp. If you want to ski, plane fully loaded, etc, you probably need to be at or above 70hp. I've got a 60. With 4 adults and no ballast, minimally loaded, I can run just under 20 mph. That is full throttle. There are several folks running 90's (and a few running over 100hp).

I have a Rule 1100gph automatic pump mounted just aft of the companionway steps under the aft berth. Output is through a high loop and out the transom.

[WinSome]

Here’s the railing info for your 26X (and all the Mac’s). CAD drawing included if you explore the site.
http://www.railmakers.com/yachts/macgre ... or-26X.htm
Also for numerous other makes of boats.
Enjoy your boat.

[Russ]

Before you tarp it, I would suggest placing a 2x4 under the mast by the step to support the mast from bending.

I am considering buying a new sail from BWY, but would really like to start off with a used sail with some mileage on it for now, and consider new sails later down the road.

There are some on this forum who have replaced with another non-mac sail. I think a Hunter (25?) will fit.
I have the original Main sail and it needs replacing. I keep putting it off because it's a Mac M and I'm not a purist.

Also, assuming I'd be installing a bimini later down the road, would it be wise to find a sail that is not quite as long so that the boom will not interfere with the bimini under sail?

I have an "M" and the boom just barely hits the bimini as we tack. Don't know about the X.

Is the cunningham still as effective on a loose footed sail since it doesn't seem that the center of the foot will be pulled down?

I'll leave this to others to answer, but many are using loose footed.

Do you guys feel that a 2nd reef point is needed at all, or should one be enough?

I have 2 reef points. But honestly, my wife doesn't enjoy it when the wind is heavy, so I have NEVER reefed. If it needs reefing, we use the iron genny. I have reefed the roller furling genoa at times.

Does your mast bend slightly aft when in the storage position, or is it fairly straight? Looks like mine is. I'd assume that mast bend is introduced when rigged and even more with proper outhaul/downhaul?

Should not bend stored. Try supporting it better (see pic above)

Is the deck/cockpit gelcoat, or paint? I'd assume gelcoat. Also, the polished fiberglass inside, is that colored fiberglass, or is there some kind of coating on it?

All gelcoat from factory. The PO may have painted.

With a wheel instead of a tiller, is it possible to feel when the boat is off balance, such as when you experience tiller tug?

Factory wheel is rack and pinion. You can feel it. Not as good as a tiller, but you can feel it.

Is there a resource somewhere that has the pulpit mounting dimensions? Since mine is pulled out and bent, I will need to get dimensions on what it needs to be.

Not that I'm aware of. BWY might be of help. Or find another X you can go measure.

I know there are a lot of variables here, but around what hp would it take to get beyond hull speed, say 6+knots?

"Beyond" hull speed means semi-plane. My guess is 9.9 would do it. There are X owners using 9.9. Probably smallest motor with a decent alternator for charging batteries.
But this boat was built to get up on plane (or semi-plane). Honestly, I would go 60+ if I were powering it. My Suzuki 70 seems minimal.

I see some complain that they are not able to get up on plane, even with 40-50hp motors, are there known motor/prop configurations that are optimal to get up on plane?

I could be wrong, but technically the boat is rated for 50. However, some dealers (BWY) were certified to install 70s. With that said, there are a few 90s, 110s out there and even a 140. Best prop is a challenge. So many variables. Salt vs fresh, even altitude. There are numerous threads on propping. It seems our boats like pontoon-like configurations.
I've never TRULY gotten up on plane. It gets up on the water, but nothing like a true powerboat gets up on plane. Then there are these......

Is it okay to trailer with the rudders up and strapped down?

Yes and you should. My M has "trailering bolts" that lock them UP during trailering.

There is a ton of rudder slop, should I shim them up to prevent unnecessary slop?

Need to know why. Perhaps the brackets need replacing or something.

Not including navigation, are there any must have electronics? I'd assume a depth sonar is a must, anything else?

Depends much on where you are boating.
If it's a place with many other boats around, I'd buy a VHF. Cheap and a good way to communicate.
My boat package came with a chartplotter. I never used one and thought it was a waste. I love this thing. Tells me depth as well, but it is the ONLY map of my lake I can find. I can come back to a marked anchoring spot in pitch darkness.

[quote[I have no winch handle, are they universal? If not, what style, brand is needed?[/quote]
Pretty much universal. I have never used mine.

would it be wise to buy a ballast checker tube? Is the vent hole designed to be above the waterline, or water continue to fill until it overflows out of the vent? I know this may change with more weight in the boat.

I assume the X is the same as the M. We open the vent and wait until we don't hear anymore air coming out. The M you can see the water through the vent hole. I wouldn't bother with a tube.

There was not factory fresh water tank, was there? Do I just need to find a freshwater tank and an on demand pump, or are there other options? I see a lot of posts and ideas on them.

These boats came BARE from the factory. Not even a jib. Roger did put a super cheap plastic water jug attached to a pump for potable water.
Do a search and you will find tons of various mods for fresh water.
I have 2 - 5 gallon Coleman jugs that I stick in the V-berth compartments with a supply tube that runs to a 12v pressure pump to a bar sink in the gally. When one runs out, I switch the tube to the other jug. I take the jug home to refill with water from home that I trust.
Others have done flexible tanks. There are all kinds of solutions. Some have even installed hot water and showers.
Consider how you will use the boat and how much water you need. Also consider that water is precious and heavy, so anything that will use less water is ideal.

[Idiotfool]

As you can see the interior was exposed to the elements, hopefully it will clean up nicely. I have one issue that needs addressed right away though. Apparently from driving through rain/sleet/snow, water had accumulated inside the hull and froze. I can see ice in the bilge area, some along the port/starboard sides looking into the access holes, as well as about 1" in the recessed area of the floor at the bottom of the companionway. The previous owner had installed a flush style drain plug in the bottom of the stern. Even though it was open, must have gotten clogged with something. Is this something I should try to melt right away, or should it be fine until spring? I'd think since these are relatively open areas, the ice was able to expand. If anything, the damage is probably already done, as it is not going to get any worse since it is already frozen. I ran an electric heater inside for about 4 hours. It was pretty warm inside, but the ice didn't even start to melt. I'm thinking the only way will be to leave it in a heated garage for about a week.

**edit**
I'm probably going to glass over the drain plug. As long as I reseal all of the deck hardware, there shouldn't be water accumulating into the boat where a drain plug would be required.
Also, where does the drain hole in the floor at the bottom of the companionway go?

Could you take a photo of this drain plug you're referring to? I ask because I'm not sure if you're aware of the water ballast system the 26X has - there's a big RV type drain valve on the stern that you use to fill the water ballast or empty it when you go to trailer the boat, again. I don't believe there is any means for bilge water to drain without active bailing or a secondary bilge pump that is likely plumbed into the sink drain plumbing, so I'm not surprised that you accumulated so much water inside with the bow looking like it does.

As far as bilge water frozen into ice - I don't think there's any immediate urgency to get it melted and removed. Ice in the open bilge isn't ideal, but I can't imagine it doing any damage. If your water ballast was full and that froze, though, you'd be in a world of hurt, whether you melted it right away or not.

[Herschel]

I am considering buying a new sail from BWY, but would really like to start off with a used sail with some mileage on it for now, and consider new sails later down the road. I've seen some cheap ones on the marketplace from other boats, but didn't know if they were fairly universal or not. Assuming the luff (24.67") & foot (10.33") are not longer than the sail specs for the X...

SlowSL, I replaced my mainsail about three years ago on my 1998 26X. Consequently, I do have the original main that came with the boat. It is in good shape for its age and use. I was thinking of adding a second set of reef points at the time, but my guy at Doyle Sails looked at the picture of it and thought it was stretched out and would not perform as well as a new one would, so I bought the new one. Ended up with a single set of reef points anyway. I would glad to take my old main out of the bag and check it out. I can take picture of it and, if you are interested we can negotiate a price on a private message.

[svscott]

I've had bilge water collect and freeze a handful of times. You can probably break the frozen ice into chunks and remove the water from your boat in pieces. I just did this a few weeks ago. As previously stated, if the water is freezing in areas that allow for some expansion. The ice wont really hurt anything.

I recently got a couple quotes for new sails on my X and D Macs and the sails are close enough in measurement to interchange 26C to 26X... at least for the mainsail. I assume the same is true about head sails. I'm planning on trying my better condition custom built 26D mainsail on the X just to see how much worse the baggy stock sail is. On the X, I also want to add another halyard tang near the mast head for my D's spinnaker to be used and also a thin dyneema halyard mounted under the top of the furler to use as a secondary headstay to hank on my other jibs. The secondary dyneema headstay would remain stowed tight to the mast when not in use so it doesn't interfere with the genoa on the furler.

[SlowSL]

I don't know, and I'm too lazy to check if anyone asked if you had a manual.

I skimmed through it a while ago, but just finished reading it in detal.

Paying $200 for a used sail that wasn't made for your boat doesn't seem like the best idea. I'd buy a new sail if you can. You can save the $600 elsewhere. If you get a new sail, I'd get two reef points. If you find yourself in a good blow, you'll be glad to have them.

Yeah, I'm leaning towards a new sail. . I've really been struggling with which to buy... full/partial battens, one or two reefs. I've come to the realization that an OEM style main with partial battens and one reef will probably work just fine, at a good price point.

Where will you be sailing? Inland lake with known depths or uncharted waters? I've been sailing in a bay with a sandy bottom for about 5 years. Just got a depthfinder. I know the water pretty well, and the depth changes gradually (except at the edge of the ship channel). I've got an M with a fiberglass dagger which will break if I ground it hard or let it side slip while grounded. Your boat has a swing keel, which takes a running grounding much better. You still don't want to side load it while grounded.

Mostly Southeast Lake Michigan, but will be traveleing to different areas of the great lakes. Also probably some inland lakes & rivers. I think having a depth finder wouldn't hurt, but probably not needed. If going up near shore, which we will probably be doing a lot of, the keel will be up and motoring slowly anyway.

You need to post pictures of your rudder fit so X owners can see if there are any problems.
I tow with the rudders up, but I have safety lines to be sure they don't come loose.

I will post some pictures next time I mess with the boat. The rudders are at the lake in a garage, the boat is at my house, so going to have to wait until I reinstall them. Looks like excessive side to side slop between the rudders and brackets to me. There appears to be about 3/8", looks like maybe there should have ben a shim or bushing of some sort there, but maybe not. The manual says to snug the bolt up to take up the slack, but it looked like a lot. Then again, I only briefly glanced at it, so maybe my memory is off. I ask about towing, because in my Hobie Cat group, some tow rudders on, others say to take them off, the constant swaying of the system causes excessive wear, and rocks chip the rudders, although the rudders on the Hobies are positioned much lower, and hanging over the road where rocks are able reach them, doesn't look like the case with tha Macgregors.

If you put a big Bimini on, you made need to raise the boom connection on the mast. This will mean having a custom sail made. If you go this route, you'll probably want to mount the Bimini and work from that before you spend money on sails.

Got it... a bimini is very low on my priority list. I'll be getting an OEM sail, so not too worried about it at this point.

A wheel will not feel like a tiller. You will get the feel of it, but it's not a tiller. You can tell when it's out of balance.
You need to get a quick disconnect kit for the outboard, to disconnect it from the steering when under sail. The outboard flopping around on the steering takes all of the feel out of the helm. Make this a high priority.

I would have never thought of this, thanks.

Use the boat before you think about re-powering. You can sail and enjoy your boat with a 10hp (my opinion). It will probably do over 6 knots with 10hp. If you want to ski, plane fully loaded, etc, you probably need to be at or above 70hp. I've got a 60. With 4 adults and no ballast, minimally loaded, I can run just under 20 mph. That is full throttle. There are several folks running 90's (and a few running over 100hp).

Not too worried about planing, just looking to be able to get somewhere faster if needed. Keeping an eye out for something around 60-90hp, but if a deal comes up with a smaller motor, I'd be okay with that.

I have a Rule 1100gph automatic pump mounted just aft of the companionway steps under the aft berth. Output is through a high loop and out the transom.

This is probably what I'll end up doing with mine.

Here’s the railing info for your 26X (and all the Mac’s). CAD drawing included if you explore the site.
http://www.railmakers.com/yachts/macgre ... or-26X.htm
Also for numerous other makes of boats.
Enjoy your boat.

This is exactly what I need, thanks!

Before you tarp it, I would suggest placing a 2x4 under the mast by the step to support the mast from bending.

Will do

Not including navigation, are there any must have electronics? I'd assume a depth sonar is a must, anything else?

Depends much on where you are boating.
If it's a place with many other boats around, I'd buy a VHF. Cheap and a good way to communicate.
My boat package came with a chartplotter. I never used one and thought it was a waste. I love this thing. Tells me depth as well, but it is the ONLY map of my lake I can find. I can come back to a marked anchoring spot in pitch darkness.

The boat came with a West Marine VHF, haven't given it power to test it out yet though. I've toyed with https://opencpn.org/ , which I'd put on a tablet.

Could you take a photo of this drain plug you're referring to? I ask because I'm not sure if you're aware of the water ballast system the 26X has - there's a big RV type drain valve on the stern that you use to fill the water ballast or empty it when you go to trailer the boat, again. I don't believe there is any means for bilge water to drain without active bailing or a secondary bilge pump that is likely plumbed into the sink drain plumbing, so I'm not surprised that you accumulated so much water inside with the bow looking like it does.

The previous owner added them. One on each side of the bottom of the boat, just outside the ballast tank area. Similar in design to this https://www.westmarine.com/buy/attwood- ... g--9766445
I personally don't like the idea of having them in there, I think I'll remove them and fiberglass over the holes. Those would create a geyser of a leak if one were to come out or if I forgot to put them in.

[Jimmyt]

Could you take a photo of this drain plug you're referring to? I ask because I'm not sure if you're aware of the water ballast system the 26X has - there's a big RV type drain valve on the stern that you use to fill the water ballast or empty it when you go to trailer the boat, again. I don't believe there is any means for bilge water to drain without active bailing or a secondary bilge pump that is likely plumbed into the sink drain plumbing, so I'm not surprised that you accumulated so much water inside with the bow looking like it does.

The previous owner added them. One on each side of the bottom of the boat, just outside the ballast tank area. Similar in design to this https://www.westmarine.com/buy/attwood- ... g--9766445
I personally don't like the idea of having them in there, I think I'll remove them and fiberglass over the holes. Those would create a geyser of a leak if one were to come out or if I forgot to put them in.

My bilge was dusty when I went for my test sail. It has always remained dry. I'd be looking for why the PO thought he needed to add drain plugs. I agree with your thought that eliminating them is the plan. I wouldn't want them, either.

You need to confirm there are no ballast leaks.

You might want to spray it with the hose on topsides, then put it in the water and fill the ballast tank; to see if any water shows up in the bilge. Also, check the centerboard trunk if you have water you can't find elsewhere. Using baby powder or chalk in the bilge can help show water tracking.