Newest owner of a 26X

[pitchpolehobie]

https://shop.hallberg-rassy.com/content ... p2160.html

I have that kit for mine they started out a bit rough but actually smoothed up after a handful of sails. I still haven't used the kit yet but keep meaning to...18mos after I bought it. For reference the Mac winches are lewmar #6 if they're the original.

fantastic, thank you

There are some YouTube videos on how to do it. Can't link you at the moment.

[Herschel]

because of the light use, the trailer is looking pretty good too. not a huge fan of black trailers in New England but we'll see how it holds up.

I recently rehabbed my '98 Mac trailer. Since these trailers are not galvanized, I recommend using the POR15 system of rust prevention when you do decide to address the trailer. It is a little cumbersome to work with and, a tad expensive, but several of us on the forum have used it to protect our older OEM trailers. With new trailers running at least $3,000, it is an economical way to keep the old black ones functional and safe to use.

[TheLandlady]

Picked up the yesterday. Spent the night in her in the Falmouth Walmart lot.
Survived the trip to the Cape!
Needs a lot done but step one is going to be shoring up the trailer, I brought it to a shop for their “36 point no obligation inspection” and waiting for the outcome. It was really squeaky on the drive. Def new hubs and maybe springs, hopefully the frame passes the test. Anyway here are some pics.

Other stuff I need to do off the bat is a deep clean, including washing or replacing the cushion covers and carpets. I bought the range of west marines cleaning stuff, incl boat soap, medium compound, liquid wax, vinyl cleaner, non skid cleaner, rub rail shine, and some brushes and sponges and towels. I know it’s probably not “the best” stuff but it was the cheapest at the shoo and will give me a baseline on what I buy when they run out.

Owner assured me the boat has never had anything but ablative paint, and said full removal isn’t necessary. Just a scuff up and new layer should do the trick. Thoughts?

[OverEasy]

Hi LandLady

Copper bottom paint needs to be activated to work properly.
This is simply a “light” sanding on the surface to reexpose the copper grains.
Again, the emphasis is LIGHT SANDING.
Your not out to remove anything but the oxide layer which is very thin.

Do this just before putting it in the water.
A orbital sander of your choice and 320 grit paper should do the trick.
Copper oxide isn’t particularly hazardous chemically but the dust isn’t anything you want in your lungs.
The copper powder is held in epoxy paint.
Again the chemistry isn’t particularly a hazard but the dust isn’t anything you want in lungs.
Wet sanding with plain water and a pneumatic orbital sander (available from Harbor Freight or body shop supply).

The image of the existing bottom looks like it still has fair coverage and s/b functional when reactivated.
Aesthetics are a personal thing….

Best Regards,
Over Easy

[NiceAft]

I was the first respondent to this thread, but, I have not been extensively following this thread, so I don’t know if what I am posting has already been said.

I seem to remember that copper based bottom paint is bad for the environment. I found this:

Most antifouling bottom paints contain cupreous oxide which is a neurotoxin. It constantly leaches into the water around your boat, creating a plume. ... Of all the copper compounds, cupreous oxide is the most deadly.Feb 1, 2011

This from West Marine: https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/ ... gJhcvD_BwE

[OverEasy]

Hi All

Technically the West Marine article was actually advocating the use of copper oxide coatings dependent upon the type of water (Salt vs. Fresh) and type of usage expected.

Copper can be an effective biocide to limit hull marine growth.
There are others biocides that have different constituents but to be effective.
The biocide is a very— very — very slowly leaching function that inhibits marine growth such as weeds, slime and barnacles.
It really doesn’t generate a plume of any measurable aspect, at least from what has been studied and published.

There kinda sorta isn’t a way around it. ….. except to get the boat hull out of the water ….. which isn’t always possible for everybody.
As a generality there hasn’t been an environmental restriction on bottom paints contains copper.

I’m not an anti-environment type nor am I an extremist the other way.
I’m a pragmatist that tries to work toward a reasonable responsible reliable result.

From what is known about copper based bottom paints they are a safe and effective approach to hull anti fouling.
To keep it functioning one needs to periodically very lightly sand the surface to re-expose the copper imbedded in the epoxy paint binder.

The existing paint on the photos looks to be in reasonably good condition and probably could be utilized for several more years and functionally does not appear to be needing an immediate replacement which avoids a substantial complex expensive time consuming project.

[NiceAft]

I have never used a bottom paint, only a barrier coat. When I did slip my Mac, I used Slimy Grimy at the end of the season to get rid of the growth that accumulated.
https://slimygrimy.com/

The product is environmentally safe.

[TheLandlady]

The existing paint on the photos looks to be in reasonably good condition and probably could be utilized for several more years and functionally does not appear to be needing an immediate replacement which avoids a substantial complex expensive time consuming project.

Excellent

[ris]

If the cushions are original or close to it just washing the covers won’t fix the smell you’ll have to get a new foam and covers. It looks like in one of the pictures of the bottom of the boat that the paint is peeling off in some areas down to the gelcoat. If it is a ablative paint that is peeling off at some point you will have to sand all the ablative antifouling paint off down to the barrier coat epoxy primer. If the PO(previous owner) did not sand the bottom and then put barrier epoxy primer before putting ablative antifoul just lightly sanding the antifoul will not be enough to keep the paint from peeling again.
Your boat looks like few mods have been done to it. It looks in great shape other than some cosmetic fiberglass dings. You don’t have to do all that repairs right away enjoy your boat.
Richard

[OverEasy]

Hi LandLady

The “peeling” I assume Ris is referring to doesn’t appear to be “peeling” in the classic sense of paint bond to surface adhesion failure. It is due to the rub of powering onto the crosswise trailer bunks. There is a high contact pressure in a localized area and is common on all boats with this type of limited area contact.

I wouldn’t think of this as a paint adhesion or “peeling” issue. It will happen again even if one were to replace all the bottom paint perfectly to the highest skill level.

The 90% plus of the bottom paint is in reasonably good condition and once reactivated should do a reasonable job inhibiting marine growth. If you desire you can locally prep and apply a local bond coat primer and then topcoat locally with a similar anti fouling paint. Just be aware that these areas will in eventually wear away with each time the vessel is powered onto those trailer bunks (which is a common occurrence over time). Touch ups are common and a much less expensive approach to deal with repetitive contact issues.

What you might want to do is realize this is a small area and just live with it dependent upon your personal asthetic preferences for a couple seasons until the rest of the hull protection wears down over time.

When you do get the boat afloat it would be a good time to take a look at the bunk carpet. The carpet may be worn and/or have debris worked into the fiber. Replacing the bunk carpet would be a good think to accomplish PRIOR to any repainting. Check the underlying wood boards.
Make sure that if there is a “teeter-totter” pivot for the forward cross boards is still movable.

Have fun and enjoy you ‘new to you’ vessel.
Best Regards,
Over Easy

[OverEasy]

[OverEasy]

[TheLandlady]

IN RE: the popped-off deck fairlead for the furler...
the tips of the screws just barely protrude beyond the body of the fairlead. i got some longer screws, but is that the right solution?
i am planing to fill the holes before i reattach, and press it into a glob of 5200 to seal it before i screw it down.
if this is correct, what should i use to fill the holes? jb weld?

[TheLandlady]

also the pulpit mounted fairlead has some considerable grooves from the operation of the furling line, is that bad or is it normal and fine?
i bought a new one with a metal collar to replace it, or just carry as a spare in case its fine as it, but maybe it should be a block instead??
thanks for any advice

[TheLandlady]

additionally, the compass is a Saturn and it seems to work fine except the sunshade/lamp mount is hanging on by a single screw and the port side is cracked, missing the screw and also the collar on the base. i have looked pretty hard to find replacement parts but it seems like that compass is no longer in production, and everywhere i search points me towards the Ritchie Venture model.

Ritchie's website lists two different model numbers, the SR2 and the SS PR2
they appear to be the exact same model, except the first one comes with a separate inclinometer, second one comes with a compensator module that attaches to the bottom. the module can be bought separate and attached to the SR2.

i already have an inclinometer on the starboard bulkhead, so the SS PR2 seems like the logical choice, but i cant find much info on the operation of the module. is it only for powerboats? or is it appropriate for any situation where electrical components may cause deviation? the shore power switch unit is on the forward side on the port bulkhead, inside the cabin, opposite the compass mount.

is it pretty simple to mount and calibrate a new compass? Ritchie has some literature on the procedure using known landmarks on a sea trial.
thanks for any advice