Repowering with smaller engine options

[Ixneigh]

Slightly off thread topic, Star, do you think would it be possible to empty that tank with a 1200 gph regular bildge pump? I’d love to get rid of that funky ballast tank gate valve and use something else like a smaller PVC ball valve.
Not sure how the pump water suction pickup would work.

[Be Free]

According to the manual, a 26X should be going around 8 mph to drain the ballast. I suspect the 26M is very similar.

I don't have any doubt that a 20hp engine can get either boat up to 8 mph.

[Starscream]

Slightly off thread topic, Star, do you think would it be possible to empty that tank with a 1200 gph regular bildge pump? I’d love to get rid of that funky ballast tank gate valve and use something else like a smaller PVC ball valve.
Not sure how the pump water suction pickup would work.

Well, yes, but that would still take over 10 minutes of pumping and use a lot of power. I think the consensus is to use an air pump trough the vent valve, forcing the water out through the main fill valve without having to actually pump water. That should get the ballast pumped down to the point where the 20HP could do the rest, I believe.

[Be Free]

Some folks have expressed concern with pressurizing the ballast tank too much. Just something to consider.

[dlandersson]

If you filled the ballast tank with helium, wouldn't that make your boat lighter? Easier for a smaller engine? Or faster to get on plane for a 50+ HP?

Some folks have expressed concern with pressurizing the ballast tank too much. Just something to consider.

[Ixneigh]

I’d only dump the ballast very infrequently at any rate. The boat moves comfortably at displacement speeds fully ballasted. And with four stroke fuel economy I’ll probably think about some ICW trips.

[rsvpasap]

I have a question for the person with the X model, who downgraded to a 20. Were you still able to go fast enough to empty the ballast tank?

Ix

No data on that question, but if ballast emptying with a 20HP is an issue, it can be done with air or water pumps instead.

Well, it gets over the six knot threshold required to drain the ballast tank.

On the other hand, I'm going to confess I've never actually done it. The boat lives in the water and I keep the ballast in pretty much all the time. On those occasions when I have emptied the ballast in the last few years, I have pumped it out by sticking a hose down in the drain vent under the v-berth and used a 3 GPM pump to pump it out to the galley sink. I have a 2002 26X, it takes about an hour and 10 minutes, but it does remove the water down to the very last gallon..

[Russ]

I have pumped it out by sticking a hose down in the drain vent under the v-berth and used a 3 GPM pump to pump it out to the galley sink. I have a 2002 26X, it takes about an hour and 10 minutes, but it does remove the water down to the very last gallon..

Interesting. I've always thought gravity was needed while the boat is tilted up to drain it all out.

I typically drain at high speed a let it drain out on the water. Or on the ramp. Then I leave the gatevalve open and drive 100 miles to storage for winter and MORE water comes out the drain.

[dlandersson]

Interesting. My past method has been to get my 97X on plane and let the water drain.

Can anyone recommend a (cheap) water pump that will fit down the air vent (about 1") and pump out the ballast?

I have a question for the person with the X model, who downgraded to a 20. Were you still able to go fast enough to empty the ballast tank?

Ix

No data on that question, but if ballast emptying with a 20HP is an issue, it can be done with air or water pumps instead.

Well, it gets over the six knot threshold required to drain the ballast tank.

On the other hand, I'm going to confess I've never actually done it. The boat lives in the water and I keep the ballast in pretty much all the time. On those occasions when I have emptied the ballast in the last few years, I have pumped it out by sticking a hose down in the drain vent under the v-berth and used a 3 GPM pump to pump it out to the galley sink. I have a 2002 26X, it takes about an hour and 10 minutes, but it does remove the water down to the very last gallon..

[rsvpasap]

Self-priming to 6 ft. Uses half inch internal diameter hose.

[OverEasy]

Some folks have expressed concern with pressurizing the ballast tank too much. Just something to consider.

Regarding using air to empty the ballast….
Just leave the ballast fill/drain valve open a crack and watch for bubbles.
Then close the valve and turn off the inflator pump.
We use an air mattress inflator, so not much for pressure but more than enough to empty the ballast.
And no I haven’t measured the current but the battery had enough ompf to start the Suzuki DF60AV and I didn’t time it but it didn’t seem all that terribly long.
That’s something I’ll do the next time I use it.

Best Regards,
Over Easy

[OverEasy]

Hi Ixneigh!

As long as your targeting hull speed a 20 hp sounds like it will work for you as would a 30 hp.
We like our Suzuki 4-stroke.

You might have more luck with finding a 30 hp on the resale market… I just haven’t seen many 20 hp that have tilt.
All the motors with tilt that I’ve seen have the ability to stop at any angle so I figure it’s the same as trim for all practical purposes.

If your planning on a Bahamas trip there are lots of folks who have sailed the whole way there and back from what I’ve read.
Having the ability to get to hull speed of 6-to-8 mph is better than sitting in the doldrums.
Lots of bigger sail boats have small motors and that doesn’t seem to bother them much at all.

Same goes for the ICW… lots of folks just putter along at hull speed or less.

I’m sorry to hear about your existing engine aging out.
Salt build up and consumer electrodes can do any engine in.
There is some stuff called ‘Salt Away’ that one can flush through the engine with the assistance of a garden hose which might help restore the internal passages if that’s something you are interested in. We’re fortunate enough that we can flush out the engine at our slip after a day out. Hoping being rigorous about doing that will help extend the functional life of our engine.

As far as your external pitting goes there isn’t a magic bullet to fix that as you well know.
One thing that might help and wouldn’t hurt is to give it a good through high pressure wash and stiff nylon bristle brushing to clean it up then degrease and prime the case with a couple through layers of epoxy followed by two or more top coats of epoxy paint.
Getting new zinc electrodes wouldn’t hurt.
Some folks get a zinc “fish” that they connect to the motor mount and drop over the side into the water when they aren’t moving… like when they are moored out or in slip. (It must work as I’ve seen some of those that look like piranhas have nibbled on them )

Best Regards,
Over Easy