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A forum for discussing topics relating to MacGregor Powersailor Sailboats
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Chip Hindes
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Location: West Sand Lake, NY '01X, "Nextboat" 50HP Tohatsu

Post by Chip Hindes »

DLT wrote:My understanding, and maybe its missguided, is that the 'system' detects the clip coming off and kills the motor on that. So, if you never put the clip on, then it works fine, but without the kill switch functionality...

Just to be clear, my Evinrude ETEC (dealer installed) will crank and RUN, without the kill switch engaged. I can't remember killing the motor by pulling the lanyard, so I can't be certain that the kill switch is wired correctly. But, I know mine will run without the clip engaged...
The system is not that smart. It's miswired and your kill switch is totally non functional.

The only difference I'm aware of is that I understand some motors will not even crank with the clip out, while some (my Tohatsu is one) will crank but not fire. Excellent way to kill the battery if you're not paying attention.

When mine won't crank at all, it's an indication that the control lever is not in neutral. I've had mine apart and it's pretty complicated with a bunch of bellcranks and cams and a small switch which signals neutral, and it's fairly easy (at least on mine) to put it together wrong so the switch is not activated correctly. If this is the problem, you may be able to pull the cover and check the switch by pushing it with your finger while trying to crank or jumping across it. Be careful as starting in gear can be really exciting in a bad way; I recommend you pull the ignition primary or the spark plug wires before trying it.
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Chip Hindes
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Location: West Sand Lake, NY '01X, "Nextboat" 50HP Tohatsu

Post by Chip Hindes »

On forgetting combos:
Easy one - just use your anniversary date. If you forget that one, you will be reminded in a way that you will never forget it again
I'm talking a cheap combo padlock for the cabin, dinghy motor and ecetera, not one of those fancy pants electronic gizmos where you can pick your own combo.

When I was in the service we had high security combo padlocks where you can choose your own combo, for classified materials. I've never seen one in the civilian world though I'm sure they exist, and I've never seen one suitable for outdoor use. Finally, I imagine the price might make them difficult to justify, especially in view of the ultimate backup (for instance, when the lock gets caked with salt and won't open even with the key/right combo) is the set of bolt cutters which every marina keeps on hand for such emergencies.
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Catigale
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Post by Catigale »

I think I paid about $10 for mine from the local Ace - it lets you choose the combo....

Of course, I stay on fresh water - agree that in salt this thing would probably jam up...
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DLT
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Location: Kansas City 2005M 40hp ETEC

Post by DLT »

Catigale wrote:That doesnt sound right DLT....if you toggle the kill switch does it kill the motor??
Maybe we're talking about two different types of kill switches. There is no "toggle" on mine. What I'm referring to as the kill switch is the clip on the lanyard, which kills the engine when the clip gets pulled off... The clip is either on or off.

I understand that Stephen has some additional kill switch arrangement...

Chip questioned whether mine is wired right and suggested that it may simply be disfunctional. That may well be. I don't remember ever testing it. I guess that's going to be first on my list the next time I get to the boat...
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Catigale
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Post by Catigale »

I have the 'stock' Mercury one DLT - 'toggle' was a poor choice of words on my part.

I was trying to ask if you click it back and forth, does your engine shut off?? If not, I would guess it is disconnected from your engine completely.

In NY, IRRC, safety switches are only required on PWCs. not on power boats as a regulatory issue, but I think we share the same concern and would get it fixed pronto...
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aya16
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Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE

Post by aya16 »

The kill switch also known as the dead man switch is suposed to kill the engine when the lanyard is pulled either by accident or other. If you dont have the plastic interupt installed and your engine would still fire then its wired wrong. the switch it self is spring loaded on- off switch that when not
pulled out and blocked should not allow the engine to fire at all. It will turn over but wont start. If yours starts then there is something wrong.

these switches cut the ignition and do nothing else.

If the engine wont even turn over when you turn the key to the starter
then the problem most likely is the throttle lever not being in in the center position. Or dead, disconnected battery, blown fuse.

Knowing all this stuff doesnt mean Im an expert its because did that done that. In my case more than once.

New boat new, back to the dealer right?
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Catigale
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Post by Catigale »

The Merc switch is a little different - You dont have to install the lanyard, you can just use it as an on/off.

If you dont use the lanyard it just moves up and lets the ignition fire.

You turn it off, insert the lanyard, and then turn it back on to use the lanyard - all it does is push the switch back down when it is pulled.

THe engine will crank but not fire with the switch down. BTDT :?
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Richard O'Brien
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Location: Lakewood, CO. Mercury 60hp bigfoot M0427B404

Post by Richard O'Brien »

Texastully, I'm pretty sure not all of these fellas are admitting the many embarassing, and disappointing episodes they've had with their boats. I'm also sure that may be why boats were usually named after women. It seems to be a price of pride to be stripped away promptly after boat ownership.
My 2nd or 3rd time out, I switched off the motor because we were coming into a group of bathers near the swim beach. When We started drifting too close, and I didn't know how to tack away, I tried to start the motor. Nothing , Nada, @#76%* Sorry Ma'm, oops! watch out for the kids." No don't push the children away with the boathook" Yikes! I quickly got out my drill, and started disassembling the binnacle. by then it was too late, and the disturbed crowd had to help us push away from the beach. Safely away, one of my guests asked: "Is it in neutral? @?%&/$?
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baldbaby2000
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Post by baldbaby2000 »

I just went through getting to the lake and not finding the key. The motor dealer had just working on our motor and ending up with both keys! I pulled the ignition switch out and took it to a locksmith and had a key made for $50 so I could sail that weekend. I was thinking of hot wiring it but the diagram in my owner's manual sucks and there is a choke switch built in that makes it more confusing.
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Captain Steve
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Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: Oxnard, CA "Wildest Dream" '98X Nissan 50

Post by Captain Steve »

I got a push button switch like Havencraft used to sell. Just program a 4 digit code in and I need no key! For service, I just change it to a new one. Made by Mercury....got mine off Ebay for 35 bucks.
texastully
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Joined: Mon May 01, 2006 8:39 pm

Got It

Post by texastully »

Really appreciate the come-back.

I approched it the hard way, and traced it back to (guess who was right) the neutral switch. It appears that when I reassembled the control, it slipped out of the detent position, so that it couldn't be in neutral and have the microswitch depressed at the same time. All fixed now: the neighbors no longer have a 26 foot boat parked in their street. Got it into Commanders Point marina just in time for the storms.
My wife and I handled the mast quit well by ourselves. Pretty slick.

Now I've got two weeks on the road before I can enjoy it.

:macm:
LOUIS B HOLUB
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Location: 1999 Mac-X, Nissan 50 HP, Kemah, TX, "Holub Boat"

Post by LOUIS B HOLUB »

During the purchase of my Mac X, the fella and wife said it ran okay the day before. I knew they were honest, the engine and boat looked brand new, so we kept trying to start it, fresh gas, checking the plugs, etc. But no luck. So, the fella and wife knocked off a few hundred dollars for a "tune up", and I made the purchase. I knew the engine had only about 30 hours, and it had to be okay.
I called a Marine fella the following day, and his first question: Did you insert the "kill switch" clip ? OPPS...and it was attached on the key ring all the time :!:
:)
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DLT
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Location: Kansas City 2005M 40hp ETEC

Post by DLT »

Well, I tested my kill switch today. With the little clip on the ignition switch, it starts, runs, and can be shut off by either turning it off with the key or pulling the clip off. I understand that's what should be expected...

But, as mentioned above, even with the clip off, it will start, run, and stop as normal...

So, my ignition switch works both ways, with or without the kill switch clip. Furthermore, the kill switch works fine...

So, either electrically or mechanically, my switch somehow detects the clip coming off, not just the absence of the clip...
Last edited by DLT on Mon May 15, 2006 6:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Jeff Stagg
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Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2004 10:32 am
Location: Roseville, CA USA

got rope?

Post by Jeff Stagg »

Don'ts:

Don't put your wallet in the front pocket of gym shorts. At least it floats, if you even see it.

Don't take your boat keys off the boat, your boat will put a curse on you for that and make you forget them next time out. Lock them below. As we have all read, anyone who steals your boat doesn't need that key.

Don't take your boat anywhere without the second key stowed below. If you don't have a second key, don't take your boat anywhere.

Don't ever give up at the launch ramp when your motor doesn't start. First off, you might be trying to use the truck (tow vehicle) key? Second, especially if you've recently replaced your shifter cable (umm, that would be me), the linkage may not align well enough to set the motor correctly into neutral. Now the key ignition is locked out, giving a dead (i.e. nothing, nada, no sound, no click, no cranking) "start." This is so you can't start the motor when there might be someone in the water near the prop, which would spin, and the boat might surge, and, etc. Third, if you have sails onboard, you don't really need a motor anyway if there's any wind at all; I have been forced into this situation when my carb was defective, a few times, and traveled many miles to get to the ramp, even in darkness, under sail.

Don't give up until you've tried the rope. For those who insist on having a motor running on their sailboat, here's something that worked for me TODAY, and many other days when my "Key" wouldn't start the motor: a rope pull start.

Don't ever take the rope (a four foot length or small diameter nylon cord with a T handle on one end and little knot on the other) off the boat, it is more valuable than your key. It will start your motor no matter what gear your motor is in. It will start your motor when it is flooded. It will start your motor when your battery is dead. It will start your motor when your shifter cable is broken.

Don't ever think you can't start your motor with a rope. It is easier than a lawnmower. Well, you must have gasoline...

For more on this, just ask.I have many many many times refused to leave the launch ramp or a remote area of the lake because my motor wouldn't start...
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Catigale
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Post by Catigale »

Every time Jeff trailers his boat out, I can hear the sigh of resignation from his boat that no matter what trick she tries, shes going boating that afternoon.

Its all about attitude sometimes.

It is amazing that you can pull start a 50 HP motor by hand so easily (I have to have battery power to power up my FIJ nd computer)....the one comment I would make is I replaced the really springy Mercury cord with a tougher piece of line that didnt stretch as much...I didnt like the 3-4 inches of stretch in the cord and how it affected the action.
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