Rig Adjustment Tool

Dimitri-2000X-Tampa · Post by **Dimitri-2000X-Tampa** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 7:46 pm

Bill, out of curiousity, how much tension can you get on the stays using the RAT?

Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL · Wed Aug 09, 2006 7:23 pm

Enough

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:39 am

Agree with bill. I didnt post his deign because its his. However since he did I'll discuss it.

I have one and it does apply as much if not more tension than nec to tune a Mac rig. The coolest thing about it is unlike the stick and 2 pin adjuster it locks in place allowing you to place the pin without haveing a third hand.

I had posted a thread about performance improvements and effectiveness. Tuning the rig properly has made more difference to my boats speed and manners then anything else Ive done.

Mork · Post by **Mork** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 12:01 pm

Bill are you sure you can not post one over here to the UK???

It sounds like I really need one!!!!!!!!!

cheers

leon

R Rae · Post by **R Rae** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 7:15 pm

Once I understood the hand sketch I rummaged through my spare junk box and came up with 2- 1/4 dia. eyebolts, a 12 inch piece of 1/2 dia. threaded rod, with 4 - 1/2 nuts. I locked the two eyebolts using the four nuts the same distance apart as the two stainless adjusters on either side of the boat. Popped the eyebolts through each adjuster with 1/4 nuts behind, and within 30 secs. became an expert.

Thanks for the neat idea.

Ron

c130king · Post by **c130king** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 3:40 pm

Can the upper and/or lower side shroud adjusters be adjusted while the mast is down? Could I adjust 1 or 2 increments (did I read where these adjusters are in 1/8 inch increments) while the line is completely slack...do both sides the same...then raise the mast and viola...tighter shrouds?

This way I wouldn't need a special tool. And can I just get it nice and "tight" without actually buying a tension gauge.

Or is there something wrong with my logic?

I seem to have the same problem of apparently loose lower shrouds and a slightly sagging forestay (furled genoa). I am not that worried about getting an extra half knot of speed or a few degrees of pointing ability but I am concerned about the stress on the loose rigging.

From what I have been reading in numerous posts it seems like I probably just need to tighten up my lower shrouds a click or two and this will also tighten up my foresail.

Thanks,
Jim

Catigale · Post by **Catigale** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 4:19 pm

You can do this Jim, especially if you have a forestay lever (couple of posts in the Mods Page about this) which lets you slacken the forestay with a snap.

c130king · Post by **c130king** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 4:37 pm

I do not have a "lever". In fact after looking at some of the pictures on the mod pages and other locations my furler seems to be a little different (installed by the PO).

Keep in mind I have only been with my boat 3 times (haven't even owned it a month yet) and have yet to really notice all the aspects of it...but

The bottom piece of my CDI roller sits very low the way it is rigged. As I recall from the last time I looked at it there is about a 1.5 - 2 inch stub on the bottom of the bottom roller that is pinned into the receptacle on the bow.

The pictures I seem to see of other folks rollers the roller sits 8 or more inches above the deck. Mine seems considerably lower.

I don't think I have any adjustments on the bottom of my CDI. But I am going sailing this weekend so I will check it out when I get to the boat. Maybe there is some way to adjust the forestay at the top end. I will look more closely before I put the mast up.

For now I think I will tighten up the lower shrouds by two clicks and see what that gets me.

I am looking forward to a month or so from now when I actually tow the boat back to my house in Georgia and spend a few weekends getting much more familiar with it.

Thanks,
Jim

Frank C · Post by **Frank C** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:56 am

It's kinda tough to determine exactly which holes would be just "two clicks" tighter. The adjustment is not just moving the pin by two holes ... hard to describe, but look very carefully before removing and adjusting those pins.

Divecoz · Post by **Divecoz** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:01 pm

Frank C wrote:It's kinda tough to determine exactly which holes would be just "two clicks" tighter. The adjustment is not just moving the pin by two holes ... hard to describe, but look very carefully before removing and adjusting those pins.

I am with you FrankC , Mark-em Dan-o with a fine tip Magic Marker before you start . I too have one of Bills RAT's Cleaver little guy that Bill and a Charter Member of NASA Btw.

ALX357 · Post by **ALX357** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 3:47 pm

"Two clicks tighter" would have to mean tighten it by the first and least increment available, ie. the next holes to line up, wherever they first appear lined up in the bar and sleeve, when they adjuster is pulled tighter. And then again, for the second click. It would be somewhat more difficult to go "two clicks" in one adjustment, but possible if you have a very clear mind.

Catigale · Post by **Catigale** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 4:19 pm

Jim - this is important on a furler. Inside the grey cup part of the furler is a turnbuckle, which if the PO has not been careful, can unroll. At this point your forestay comes loose, and the mast will crash down on you in the cockpit. THe furler trunbuckle should be pinned with two cotter pins inside to prevent it from unscrewing.

PM or EM if you have questions...you can also get the manual for the CDI furler on the Manual link at right.

c130king · Post by **c130king** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 4:46 pm

ALX,

Yes, that is what I was thinking exactly. I understand that two clicks are not necessarily the next two holes down. I think I can figure out which holes will line up if I slide the two parts together about 1/4". After doing the same to both sides I will crank it up and see how tight that made the lower shrouds. If it looks too tight I will back it down a 1/8". If it still seems loose I might add another 1/8".

Catigale,

As to the turnbuckle inside the "grey cup" of the furler...have not tried to take that apart or look inside. I assume you are talking about the bottom end. I will do so on Saturday when I drive down to Jax.

Is that turnbuckle also meant as a means to "tighten" up the slight sag in the forestay?

I will let you guys know if I have problems.

It is actually supposed to be freezing Sat and Sun morning at NAS Jax. But it will warm up to near to 60. That's what gloves and knit caps are made for

.

Thanks again for the advice.

Jim

Catigale · Post by **Catigale** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 5:05 pm

Jim - on the CDI furler you have to pull the pin in the grey extrusion, then slide the cup up to expose the turnbuckle. You should be able to see lots of thread on both ends of the turnbuckle and each end should be cotter pinned in place. The failure mechanism is the cotter pin breaks, the furler twirls with the sail and the turnbuckle unscrews, at which point the forestay loses integrity, and the mast falls

c130king · Post by **c130king** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 5:09 pm

The failure mechanism is the cotter pin breaks, the furler twirls with the sail and the turnbuckle unscrews, at which point the forestay loses integrity, and the mast falls

Ouch. I have seen some references to this in other posts but wasn't quite sure what was what. I will give these a close look on Saturday.

Thanks again,
Jim

MacGregorSailors.com

MacGregorSailors.com

Rig Adjustment Tool

tensioning the stays