Consolidated Trailer Repair or Replace ? Thread

[delevi]

I picked up my battered trailer from the shop today. "Old rusty" I call it now. I didn't authroize them o do any work. The good news is they didn't charge me the $199 inspection fee since they really didn't do anything. For the life of me, I can't see the bent axel. The mechanic tried to show it to me saying that if you look just right, the left wheel is off just a bit, which is why half the tread peeled right off (which it did.) I replaced the wheel with a spare before I took the trailer into the shop, breaking a rusted lug bolt in the process. He said that you can't see the bgend on the axel but the part recessed into the wheel.... I just coudln't see it, period. As I drove away, I realized he was pointing at the left wheel. The tire tread peeled off the right wheel. HMMM. I don't think I need an axel after all. I think I'll just take it to a brake shop and have the rotors, hubs and brakes replaced. Not sure what to do with the springs. Maybe they can replace them with shocks. I can buy a new jack which I can bolt on, but would appricate some advice on how to cut off the existing one. That's some thick steel, and I'm pretty sure a hack saw won't do it. If I can manage the whole project for about $700-$900, there is no sense in replacing the trailer. I will then treat it with this rust remover spray which I used once before.. works reasonably well, then paint with rustolium paint. Should be good as new.... sort of.

Leon

[kziadie]

My jack failed when my trailer was only a month old. Although Bill from Macgregor sent me a replacement it was too much trouble to weld it on, so I put on a Fulton bolt-on which cost $30 and is far better than the original.

Getting the old one of was a real hassle, but eventually I used a reciprocating saw to cut the weld seam. Be prepared to break a few blades because the cutting angle is not always straight. I had to cut mine because it was jammed in the down position, however if yours is in the up position (I assume so since you can still move the trailer) then why not just leave it in place? You cant bolt the new one there anyway.

Kelly

[Boblee]

Delevi
With your jack just check out whether it is only the washer that holds the gears togetherthat is the problem, just tap off the rubber cap on top above the handle, if it's the same as mine there will be bits of metal floating around.
An easy way to check is if you apply pressure to the bottom of the wheel it should work.
If you do cut it off the easy way would be to use an angle grinder, it will be off in seconds (well maybe a minute ).
Bob

[Catigale]

Leon - when you describe the tread as peeling

which is why half the tread peeled right off (which it did.)

do you mean scrubbed off or an actual separation of the tread from the tire body??

First case, wheel alignment, second case, bad tire...

[Bawgy]

Shocks do not take the place of springs at all . The shock is only used to dampen the springs movement . I have used a trailer supply here for all of my horse and stock trailers . They are called , and it's for real , REDNECK Trailer Supply , in Charlotte NC . They have all you need and I received better pricing than Champion.

[Terry]

Leon,
Before you start with the hack saw, try dis-assembly. My jack seized up on me and I ended up snapping the little spring steel pin that holds the gears at the top when you remove the cap. I used a car jack to raise the trailer tongue way up and pulled the whole screw assembly out the bottom. I then took it into the garage and placed it in my vice to hold it and used a heavy pair of vice grips to unthread the siezed assembly. Once apart I claened it up with WD40 then regreased with a water proof grease and re-assembled it, put it back in the jack housing, got a 1/2 dozen of those spring steel pins @.25 cents each and put a new one in and have 5 spares. Works good as new! Now I always add a bit of oil down the top from time to time, plus extra grease and sometimes a squirt of WD40 to keep things from seizing. Not sure there is any need to cut the jack off.

[Boblee]

Thanks Terry
I am pulling mine apart today and now see that my diagnosis was probably wrong, so now will be easier . It was part of a pin not a washer I could see (maybe a washer will do the job)
Love this site
I like this jack but it does not raise the tongue high enough to clear the ball when the tow vehicle is unloaded (thats why it broke).
Bob

[Boblee]

Wrong again there was a broken washer and the collar that supports the handle was also broken.
Finally spat the dummy and now have a new jockey wheel, while I was at it made up a bracket for the spare wheel too.

[delevi]

Thanks guys. I'll have to work on it after the middle of July. Off to Greece next Tuesday for 2 1/2 weeks to cruise the Cyclades in a Jennau-Sun Odyssey 32.

Ahhh, can't wait. I guess you don't feel so bad for me about the trailer & all.

do you mean scrubbed off or an actual separation of the tread from the tire body??

Not sure what the difference is. I noticed last month that the right tire was completely bald (smooth) from the middle section all the way to the outer edge. The inner half had full tread. I replaced it with the spare wheel, which is when I broke a lug bolt trying to pry off the nut. Very rusty. This probably explains why the trailer swayed so much. Since I replaced the wheel, no sway.

Cheers All,
Leon

[Catigale]

Sounds like classic wheel alignment problem. A bent left axle could scrub out the right tire but I would guess it would be more likely that both tires would wear funny. If only one tire wore out, I would think a loose wheel bearing is more likely.

[Scott]

I like Duanne have an older trailer and am happy with it. Granted fresh water use and I touch up mine yearly.

As for the repairs a new axle setup, rim to rim and tires/ springs/ brakes should be in the $300 -500 range at your local trailer shop.

I know a guy out here that would prob build a new one for less than a grand.

[delevi]

Scott,

I can't find anyone who would even work on it, let alone do it for the price you mentioned. It's a different world out here in CA where everything costs WAAAAY more than most places.

Leon

[Scott]

Much as I would love to live on the ocean I guess there are benefits to being in the heartland.

[delevi]

Okay, now I'm stumped again. Went to the boat yesterday to put some air in the tires (had them way low tow the empty trailer.) I noticed the same problem with the tread on the outer edge having come completely off, down to the smooth bald part. This time it was on the left wheel. First time it was on the right. This is the wheel the shop guy pointed to where the axel was supposed to be bent. Perhaps he wasn't BSing me after all. I found a brake shop that would mount virtually anything on trailer, not sure for how much, but he said I would have to provide the parts. I think I'm at the point where I would either need to find a supplier who can ship an axel with everything on it (rotors, bearings, hubs, brakes, etc) or bite the bullet and pony up $2200+tax for the new aluminum trailer. The former option is provided that I can do the whole job for under a boat buck out the door. Otherwise, I think I would still opt for the new rust-resistant trailer since any repair I make to the existing trailer will hold up for 2-3 years at best, considering my heavy use in salt water.

Leon

[DLT]

I think I'm at the point where I would either need to find a supplier who can ship an axel with everything on it (rotors, bearings, hubs, brakes, etc) or bite the bullet and pony up $2200+tax for the new aluminum trailer. The former option is provided that I can do the whole job for under a boat buck out the door. Otherwise, I think I would still opt for the new rust-resistant trailer since any repair I make to the existing trailer will hold up for 2-3 years at best, considering my heavy use in salt water.

I think it would have to be significantly under a $1000, before I'd even consider it... Why spend anywhere near $1000, just to put off <$2500 for ~2 yrs (maybe less)? Not to mention the risk of more serious failure...