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Im in my 4th year sailing a Macgregor...and yesterday when leaving the boat in its slip, I REMEMBERED: The boat key is "on" That was the first time "ever" -- so, I added that to my "long" check list -- "REMOVE the ignition key "
Experience is good, but a "check list" is absolutely necessary (at least it is for me). There is just something exciting about sailing--but, having so much fun can cause forgetfulness and error.

Another example, yesterday, I pulled into a nearby Marina single handed to visit a friend & his wife (owners of a Trawler), and as I cut power, & pulled the boat to the pier with my boat hook, well, YOU GUESSED IT....no rope to tie up !!! HA. Proof once again, having so much fun can even misplace dock lines.

NO...I dont drink, and wasnt drunk...

All that error is okay -- its all in a fun day of Mac sailing/motoring.

edit add: Last weekend I ran out of gas within my Marina, returning from an afternoon on the water...good thing I had a container with a half gallon on hand...(another check list item)

Before anyone pokes fun, I dont make the same mistakes twice. So, I'm narrowing things down...heh heh

Loefflerh wrote:that list can go on, I bet everybody can conribute!

5. testing the speed of your new suzuki 70 with the daggerboard full down wakes you up quickly....

Well now I know I'm not the only one. I am very careful to read all manuals and I knew never to power over 6 or 7 mph with the daggerboard and rudders down. However...First time I had my younger brother (who never liked sailing- too slow for him) I thought I'd impress him with the powering capabilities of the Mac M. I left my slip, slowly motored through the cut to the big part of the lake, put the hammer down and turned right. As soon as did it I realized the error of my ways. My brother never realized I screwed up. He was impressed that it turned like a ski boat and the rail in the water didn't bother him. I pulled up the daggerboard and the rudders, left bro at the helm and went below to the head to clean my pants

I have been a mac M and 25 sailor for a few years and avid reader of this forum for some time. It seems that I am still learning everything the hard way too. I not only learned to take the bolts out of the rudders this season, I also learned that you can, with some effort, take them out while anchored in Green Bay.
I also learned how cold the water of Green Bay is in May!

Tom

TomMcC wrote:I have been a mac M and 25 sailor for a few years and avid reader of this forum for some time. It seems that I am still learning everything the hard way too. I not only learned to take the bolts out of the rudders this season, I also learned that you can, with some effort, take them out while anchored in Green Bay.
I also learned how cold the water of Green Bay is in May!

Tom

This would be funny but happened on my 2nd or 3rd time out also - and the water doesn't get any warmer around Chicago
Now I have to add to the checklist - find checklist

the fuel line from your tank to the motor has an arrow on it,make sure that the arrow is pointing towards to motor,as if you flatten the battery before you notice,its a tough motor to start by hand.

On my first time out in my Mac X (two weeks ago), I took the family for about a one hour ride under engine power on a relatively calm day. I kept it full throttle for about ten minutes, then medium throttle and then off while we bobbed around for a bit, then home.

It was only when we'd been out for about 20 minutes that I realized I should have raised the centreboard and rudders, which were fully down, before operating the boat fast under power.

I don't believe I caused any damage, but I wonder if the weight of all that water whizzing by put a strain on the equipment, esp. the cable that raises and lowers the centreboard.

Remember to raise rudders and motor before pulling out. (I store the boat in a mast up area, so its like launching a power boat, no rigging)
Just replaced the skeg on my old Tohatsu and fixed prop (but thats a different storey) and took it out for a sail. Usually I tow with a 2007 Envoy but thought I would try the 1998 Venture van as it also has a trailer hitch. The ventures hitch is below the bumper and with the boat attached is only 6" off the ground, actaully had the spare tire leave a skid mark at one point when launching. When I pulled the boat out at days end, the admiral asked if I had the motor shortened because it was still down but cleared the concrete ramp easily.
I considered that lesson to be a freeby. Installed a laminate warning by the steering wheel, ENGINE UP? I also bought a 10" riser tow bar.
I keep telling the Admiral that I need to go out more often so I can form good habits, perhaps daily.

After launching from the trailer is NOT the time to figure out that the ignition key is in the center console of the tow vehicle and all of your dock lines are stored down below in a handy storage container. Quite naturally, the ramp was full, so you look like a complete idiot.

The first time out I also forgot to pull the traveling bolts out of the rudders. When the kid on the dock said "Aren't you supposed to put your rudders down for better control?" I simply told him I was trying something new this time, at which point the Admiral lost it, and blew my cover. Yeah, we now have a checklist........which gets new entries every time out.

Pat

When underway, we store the campanion way hatch in the walkthrough stern, wedged under the captains seat.

Unfortunaly this is where the rubber fuel line goes from the fuel tank to the engine. There is room for the fuel line to go on the side, but one time out it got pinched under the hatch, blocking the fuel.

We have a opening train tressel bridge in a very narrow channel to navigate out to open ocean. Any other day may have been fine, but of course, just enough fuel to leave the dock and get to closed bridge with a long train crossing, fast tidal current with low tide, and lots of boat traffic waiting.

Only good thing was, the navigator was not on this trip. (and to this day does not know ... so don't tell her)

Note to self

oh yes ...

Ensure the mainsail halyard is attached to the sail head before hoisting.

Either that, or buy a "28 foot expanding boat hook" to retrieve the flying halyard in a beam sea, that is now fouled around the spreader, mast, shroud and anything else it has managed to suck into is evil grasp.

enufsed wrote:On my first time out in my Mac X (two weeks ago), I took the family for about a one hour ride under engine power on a relatively calm day. I kept it full throttle for about ten minutes, then medium throttle and then off while we bobbed around for a bit, then home.

It was only when we'd been out for about 20 minutes that I realized I should have raised the centreboard and rudders, which were fully down, before operating the boat fast under power.

I don't believe I caused any damage, but I wonder if the weight of all that water whizzing by put a strain on the equipment, esp. the cable that raises and lowers the centreboard.

I doubt you did any damage. I think the biggest problem with running board down is turning into a hydrofoil. If you turn, the board will lift you up.

Okay, I did this last weekend.

After lowering the sock from the roller furling main, I took the halyard and attached it without checking. It got wrapped around the furling gear at the top. When I went to unfurl the jib, it wrapped the halyard around the top gear.
It took me a while to figure out why it was tangled and get it untangled.

Lesson: Keep halyards tied off tight and away from other rigging.

Factory original X rudders while down CAN support the weight of the boat at the top of the ramp & make it a b**** to center on the trailer!!

Well, I have only taken it out once since putting it in the water last week and bringing to my dock, and both rudders dropped like a rock when I took the tension & ropes off the cletes. So I'm guessing that is something the previous owner threw away??

Couple of questions:
Is there an aftermarket hatch that fits the 'window openings'?

Is there somewhere online that will show me how to route halyards & sheets to the rear of the cockpit (close to the pedestal)? I ordered a new running rigging package because what was on the boat (2001) looked pretty rugged, so I figured I might as well run everything aft that I could so that I can (after more lessons) handle it alone. If there is a diagram online, I sure would appreciate knowing where to look. Also, the rope that is used to raise & lower the centerboard looks frayed. In the book that I have with the boat, it doesn't show how it is routed, but I'm guessing I would need to take it out of the water to replace that? And, what type of rope would I want to use? I'm thinking stretch is a factor for that rope?

Thanks for your help.

Yes, I'm reading Sailing For Dummies and the Keep It Simple Stupid sailing books nightly.

x sailor,your about where i was last september

Unfortunetely the mods page is down,there are a lot of photos on there that show the lines lead aft.

The centerboard line is routed through the shiney pole next to the dinette table,as KHE if you can replace the line with the boat on the trailer,the black plastic bits at the bottom of the pole come off,they are known to be attached by double sided tape,if you can acess the top of the centerboard from there then it should be easy to replace the line,remember to mark the new line at the jammer/cleat with a piece of tape or someting similar,this lets you know how much board is down,epecially usefull when you want a couple of inches down in the marina for manouvering.

im still working on leading my lines aft,my problem is that when i get to my boat,i want to sail and not work on her,ill wait until winter when the boat is in the back yard