Honda 50 HP problem

[opie]

Michael,
Could you please do us a favor and take several pictures of the cables as the Honda lowered to full-down position? Thanks. I want to fix this cable binding problem of mine and I can't see how the cables will do better underneath the steering bar.

[Michael]

In the motor down position the cables press up against the steering bar and actually wants to lift it up. It has been set up this way for a number of years without a problem. With the cables on top of the bar, as they were originally installed by the dealer, they lasted only a couple of weeks until the bending made them virtually unusable.

[opie]

thanks Michael,
I'll change mine to go underneath the steering bar, asap.

[opie]

Kink in Honda Cables, youtube video

I did not have time to run my cables underneath the steering bar yet, but underneath is where they flexed and broke last time. I just can not figure out what is wrong with my setup unless wrapping it in a teflon sheath will help in some way. It would be best if the steering cable could just push on the engine and the rudders hooked up in some other way. I am going to break my cables again, because once in a while, in a hurry, I forget and raise the engine all the way.....

[paj637]

Whereever you route the cables, you need to have more than a 6" bend radius. Meaning that the minimum cable loop diameter anywhere in the cable run is over 6". Seems to me that routing under the steering bar is the best. I tied my cables all together so the move together and I verified that I have no extreme bends when I moved the engine all around in all travel, port/stbd,full up and down.

[Retcoastie]

Opie,

Looking at your video, I think you have way too much cable outside the boat. Shove a bunch of the cables and the wiring back inside. My cables and wires are much shorter. When I raise my engine, the cables and the wires go down into the well. They are not trapped between the deck and the steering bars. I will try to take a photo or two tomorrow when it is light.

[paj637]

I agree with RetCoastie. I have only about 18-20" of cable from the entrance into the motor to the entrance into the boat hull.

[John McDonough]

it was 12 years ago when I bought my first 26X, and I do recall that whatever the macgregor site was at the time...the cable failure problem was a popular topic. I am positve I read it on the internet somewhere, So when I bought my Honda 50hp motor I special ordered the super flex cables. All these years no problem. I did reroute my cables different from the photos. Coming out from the hull, I loosely tie rapped the cables to the metal steering bar closest to the engine and the loop fits into the transom drain area.

After years watching the cables moving, I would suggest raising the motor mounts on the transom at least two extra inches higher to reduce the strain on the cables loop when the motor is in the up-right position while Sailing

Between Sailing and motoring I used too disconnect the linkage, but that got tiresome and its been years since I touched it. Sailing while the motor linkage is connected to the rudders will cause wear & tear on your cables, constantly moving as your turn the steering wheel.

[Retcoastie]

Opie,

As promised, here are the photos of my engine control cables and wiring.


This shows cables coming out of the boat.


Here are cables in the well with engine up.


Here are cables in the well, engine down.

Good Luck with your project.

Ken

[paj637]

Here's a shot of my http://s943.photobucket.com/albums/ad277/paj637/cable run.

[elvatoli]

Does anybody have think on making a fiberglass plattform over the cables and steering braces, that can be extended outside the actual platform, in order to have something to step on, without standing over the cables or the steering braces ?
It can have drain oval holes, and made it in white in order to match the floor, because in wood will look like an addition not made for the boat.

Hector
RGV, TX

[John McDonough]

I made a plywood platform to cover the steering platform on the port side. I made it for winter storage only. After two years I didnt bother using it anymore, I just look where I am stepping.

I placed 2 2x4 by 12" along side the steering bar and screwed on a piece of plywood.

[opie]

Ken,

I like your setup. My estimate is that your diameter is about 8 inches for the cable turn into the motor so that your radius is about 4 inches. If true that would mean you would need the superflex, 4" radius cables made by teleflex, I thinks called Extreme. Do you?

Or is that only if you flex the cables? What I mean is that even if you had 8" radius cables, and tied them like you have in your picture, that fact that they do not get flexed ever again once put into position, does that mean that the flex rule is void and you can have the 4" radius with 8" radius cables?

[DaveB]

Opie,
I have the 1997 setup close to what Ken has except my steering rod is located on top of the swing bar instead of side like Ken's.
I use a Uniflex cable with a 4 inch diamiter bend for throttle and gear cables, these cables go over the swing arm and othere 3 cables go under.(you need these cables for the 90 degree turn from inside tube to outside to motor and the turn to motor)
Before they went under the swing bar and caused chafe on cable.
This works excellent with motor all the way up or down.
Since cables move from side to side , Ken has a good way of keeping the water out of the rubber boot.
Putting a plastic cover over the 2 cables at the contact point will also help as a sacrificial protection.
Dave

Ken,

I like your setup. My estimate is that your diameter is about 8 inches for the cable turn into the motor so that your radius is about 4 inches. If true that would mean you would need the superflex, 4" radius cables made by teleflex, I thinks called Extreme. Do you?

Or is that only if you flex the cables? What I mean is that even if you had 8" radius cables, and tied them like you have in your picture, that fact that they do not get flexed ever again once put into position, does that mean that the flex rule is void and you can have the 4" radius with 8" radius cables?

[opie]

Here is my final solution, at least for me.
I bought 2 CCX63315 Teleflex Extreme cables from Cabelas.com since they had the best price I could find for what I am told is the best cable you can buy.
I replaced my cables and not too soon, since the old throttle cable was hard to pull in and out even when laying flat on the driveway. New cables work like smooth butter. Note the last 2 digits in the Teleflex # represent the length. I had 14 ft cables and went to 15 ft cables. I think I could have stayed with 14 ft cables. The interesting thing is that the Teleflex rep I spoke to recommended a 4 ft loop in the cables to prevent bending and failure. But with the X (and M?) there really is not enough space for that much cable. So my loop is smaller than that. I did not take a picture of my setup but I found this pic on the net that is very similar to what I did with my cables today, with the cables above all the steering bars.
(Picture credit)
I used the exact same loop you see above and when the motor turns from stop to stop the loop grows or shrinks but there is absolutely no binding at the entrance to the motor. This is the way it should be per the Teleflex factory man. It is hard for me to understand how many of you have very little cable coming out to the engine. But, if it works for you, so be it.

I still have the problem of tilting the motor up and binding the cables, but I will avoid that always by only tilting the motor up until the cables in the well go down and almost touch something. That, for me, is about 40% up at the prop side of the motor.