Fxwg80hd wrote:Dave's Trailer setup my forward bunks the same way. They are not made to support the weight of the boat, just keep the bow from hitting the frame. The reason to only raise the front and not the rear is that the bow of the boat will drop down as the boat slides of the trailer and if you have the front and back of the forward bunks raised, the weight of the boat will bend the brackets as the boat slides off.
Be careful moving the boat forward on the trailer without moving the axles. The original MAC trailer is 21 feet from bow stop to axle. You said you are currently set at 21 feet from bow stop to center between the 2 axles. I would have it weighed before and after moving so you don't exceed the max tongue weight that your tow vehicle can handle (which my guess is 500 pounds). Luckly the axles are as easy to move as anything else on the trailer.
Hoping to get out on the Bay this weekend, but most likely will be up around Middle River/Hart-Miller Island. Want to be closer to home when I take it out for a shakedown cruise in case I have problems. Hope to get down your way in the next couple of weeks as I plan to do more trailer sailing this year and move around the Bay. Have to make use of the new trailer.
Chris,
I have 21' from the hitch to the center of the axles. Lot less than that from bow stop to center of axle. That makes me think I may be slightly tail heavy or heavier than desired.
Jim - I need to correct my measurements (teach me to rely on my memory). The original MAC trailer is 21 feet from Bow stop to back of trailer. It is 15 feet 6 inches from bow stop to center of axle.
I have the new aluminium trailer and would like to upgrade to a second axle.
One poster suggested making the distance from the hitch to the single axle the same as the hitch to the centerline of the dual axle setup. This will definitely reduce tounge loading. I like this idea from the standpoint of reducing the load on my car but wonder about stability.
Are there any other suggestions for locating the axles if adding an additional axle?
due to the narrowing of the frame on the mac trailer you cant make your single axle to hitch measurement the center line for your new dual axle, what i did was move existing axle forward to start of inward curve of frame.drill your 4 1/2" bolt holes for that axle then from that axle center line measure aft 30" and make that your centline for the new axle. this gave me 325# empty on the ball hitch with no problems with sway or instability.
Sounds good on the location - main issue is that I cannot find a part/serial number on the axle assembly to help order a new one. Someone has suggested that it is in the center of the axle but if so, I suspect it is under the bunk board. Anyone know the part number to order one from UFP? I would rather only pay shipping from Tennesee to Maryland vs from MacGregor or Blue Water Yachts on the west coast. Otherwise, I imagine to order from UFP, I may only need the following: the cross tube cross section and length measurements, galvanized, 3750 lb torsion axles, without brakes?
Also, any issues moving the bunk (over the existing axle) forward?
For anyone interested, I recently took the plunge and ordered a new Super Sport Macgregor Tandem Axle aluminum trailer for my , which is made by Owen's and Sons out of St Petersburg FL. The bunk arrangement copies the original Mac trailer. I opted for this one as apposed to the LoadRite trailers discussed in earlier posts based on the opinion of my marina people (a northeast Mac dealer), coupled with the fact that I had a very hard time getting any information or assistance from my local LoadRite dealer. The factory was even less help--they simply deferred me to the dealer. It would appear that neither were too interested in selling me a trailer for the Mac. I know people on this board had success with LoadRite dealers in the MD area, and were happy with their purchases. Unfortunately, MD was not an option for me.
If anyone is interested, I can let you know how this trailer works out for me after I get it sometime in mid to late April. Attached is the link for the trailer.
I converted my stock 2002 X trailer to a dual axle and added an additional crossbar. I did not reposition the wheels themselves just added another axle behind the original, an error I think, and now the toungue weight is higher. Not sure if it is related, but I get worse gas mileage with the dual axle trailer than with the single. About 2 mpg worse...could it be related to the tongue weight?
However the tracking is WAY better and I feel better about having backup tires! I had a blowout on my single axle trailer at 60mph and contrary to what I expected, it was a very mild event with only light shaking and pulling to the right. I was able to limp to the next exit and change to the spare. The jack from the truck wasn't tall enough to get the trailer wheel off the ground but I happened to have some spare pieces of 2x4 and was able to construct a spacer on the spot. Mental note: always carry something to jury-rig the jack. Driving the next 200 miles at night without a spare was nerve racking to say the least.
When I replaced the tires, I kept the two newest (on wheels) for spares. Not as good as new tires, but better than nothing. With four tires on the road, there's twice the chance of a flat, so I carry (or will, this spring after I make the spare tire carrier) twice as many spares.
Reminds me of the aircraft conundrum - is it better to fly a single, or a twin (engine) as far as engine-out conditions?
dbrac wrote:For anyone interested, I recently took the plunge and ordered a new Super Sport Macgregor Tandem Axle aluminum trailer for my , which is made by Owen's and Sons out of St Petersburg FL. The bunk arrangement copies the original Mac trailer. I opted for this one as apposed to the LoadRite trailers discussed in earlier posts based on the opinion of my marina people (a northeast Mac dealer), coupled with the fact that I had a very hard time getting any information or assistance from my local LoadRite dealer. The factory was even less help--they simply deferred me to the dealer. It would appear that neither were too interested in selling me a trailer for the Mac. I know people on this board had success with LoadRite dealers in the MD area, and were happy with their purchases. Unfortunately, MD was not an option for me.
If anyone is interested, I can let you know how this trailer works out for me after I get it sometime in mid to late April. Attached is the link for the trailer.
For sure let us know how it works out. I'm curious as to the winch and its location - lots of complaints on the factory winch and its location. If it's close to where the stock winch is located, I'll want to know how it does with the MacBump.
I had the second axle added to my trailer. If I had to do it over again, I would have bought the aluminum tandem axle. By the time I bought the second axle, hubs, wheels, tires, bearings, brake lines, tandem fenders, leaf springs and hardware, it got expensive. Then the labor cost...wow! First time pulling out of water the tongue crumbled in half; Next weakest link in my original 2007 trailer. Welder said the inside of the channel iron was full of rust...it was only a matter of time. He added heavier channel steel. Now I have a great trailer I have confidence in. The cost.....? I could have bought an aluminum tandem for the same price. Live and learn.
2007 26
, which is made by Owen's and Sons out of St Petersburg FL. The bunk arrangement copies the original Mac trailer. I opted for this one as apposed to the LoadRite trailers discussed in earlier posts based on the opinion of my marina people (a northeast Mac dealer), coupled with the fact that I had a very hard time getting any information or assistance from my local LoadRite dealer. The factory was even less help--they simply deferred me to the dealer. It would appear that neither were too interested in selling me a trailer for the Mac. I know people on this board had success with LoadRite dealers in the MD area, and were happy with their purchases. Unfortunately, MD was not an option for me. 
