MacGregorSailors.com

Thanks again for all the great advice.

I'll let you all know how weekend II goes.

Quoted without quotes, because quoting make the text smaller:

Ballast filled under supervision and without any problems. Just remember - completely full, or completely empty. No in-between, ever (except during filling and draining). I'm only emphasizing because you're new to water ballasted boats, and it's critical to the stability (and instability - half ballast can make it LESS stable) of the boat.

Second day I motored out to a cove to try to anchor. Wind was at 18mph and the boat wouldn’t hold in the sandy bottom. Just so you know, that anchor locker is too small (IMO) for common Danforth style fluke anchors that can reliably hold the in a blow, which would suggest that the anchor that came with the boat is too small for more than protected areas and lighter winds. I keep a much larger anchor below decks, rigged with chain and 200 ft of 3-strand rode (3-strand is much 'springier' than braided, which is desirable for an anchor rode - cheaper, too). Fluke anchors are also poor in weeds. But as suggested above, some next generation anchors like the Mantus, Manson Supreme, and Rocna have become very popular, and are better suited to weeds (tough to anchor in no matter what you use), but are excellent in sand, especially when it comes to resetting (once broken free from changing tides or wind - a VERY important issue if you sleep on the hook). Fluke anchors are still viable, of course, but again (and IMO only), they need to be larger than what fits in the anchor locker of the to be reliable in more than light to medium winds. I believe MacGregor increased the size of the locker in the boats, which I take as a tacit acknowledgement of the issue. There are entire threads, and web sites, devoted to anchors, ground tackle, and techniques, so a search here and over the entire web will give you more than you could ever want, and make your head hurt in the process.

First impressions; I feel like I am in a much more costly boat than purchase price reflects. Sleeping in the cabin V was much better than expected . . . When I overnight on Tomfoolery with the admiral, we drop the table and set it up as another berth. It's just too tight in the v-berth for both of us, so she gets the settee and I sleep diagonally in the v-berth for the extra length. She has the benefit of using the compression post to help sit up and swing her legs to the sole. Head to head seems to work best. After almost 27 years of marriage, a little non-parallel sleeping isn't a bad thing.

Third is to buy or maybe even build a dedicated tender dinghy so I don’t have to rely on the clubs. There was a recent thread about inexpensive inflatable dinghies here. Not expensive Zodiac types, but cheap rafts with oars. I have a 2-person that can barely hold a kid, but it's making me think. A 4-person might be able to hold 2, and still roll up to a tiny package. Might be something to think about for a tender. Throughout the summer the trailer will either be refurbished or I will be shopping for a new one. Lots of threads on that one, too. I put disc brakes on my original trailer, with a new coupler, for little money. Submersible LED lights from Harbor Freight (still going strong after 3 seasons of dunking) are the bomb, for relatively cheap, and cheaper when they go on sale, which is all the time. The long horizontal submersible "over 80" style.

I know we all love pictures so I’ll get those up as soon as I can. No pics; didn't happen.

Here's a web site with load of info on anchors and anchoring. http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-ancho ... lained.php

Just keep in mind virtually every web site and/or author on this topic has an agenda, and often it's something to sell. That doesn't mean there isn't good information, and something to be learned (if nothing else, you'll learn how anchors really work), but do keep that in mind.

Steve K wrote:I always careen by the jib halyard or a rope around the mast at the spreaders.
https://app.box.com/s/o7hw86isxed3a9lxhinh

I have been wondering if careening is a viable option for defouling my hull. I haven't properly powerwashed it for 2 years now (hard to get under there when on the trailer) and, judging by how much algae can build up on my rudders when they're left down for just a week or two, I'd say my undersides are looking pretty lush. A good mid-season scrape might be just the thing.

Is there any risk to careening while at dock (other than to my neighbors' rigging )? Can I just grab the jib halyard and haul with impunity?

DaveC426913 wrote:

Steve K wrote:I always careen by the jib halyard or a rope around the mast at the spreaders.
https://app.box.com/s/o7hw86isxed3a9lxhinh

I have been wondering if careening is a viable option for defouling my hull. I haven't properly powerwashed it for 2 years now (hard to get under there when on the trailer) and, judging by how much algae can build up on my rudders when they're left down for just a week or two, I'd say my undersides are looking pretty lush. A good mid-season scrape might be just the thing.

Is there any risk to careening while at dock (other than to my neighbors' rigging )? Can I just grab the jib halyard and haul with impunity?

I cannot think of any reason not to careen a Mac. Simply make sure everything is tied down, which you should do anyway. Many of us land on the beach and let the tide go out, and as mentioned previously heel over occasionally to the point of seeing fish through the windows without any ill effects. You mentioned algae in a two week period, are you on freshwater? I've been to some coastal locations that 2 weeks is enough to be dealing with getting rid of barnacles.

tek wrote: I cannot think of any reason not to careen a Mac. Simply make sure everything is tied down, which you should do anyway. Many of us land on the beach and let the tide go out, and as mentioned previously heel over occasionally to the point of seeing fish through the windows without any ill effects.

I am more concerned about stressing the rigging by pulling on the halyard at an unnatural angle.

tek wrote: You mentioned algae in a two week period, are you on freshwater? I've been to some coastal locations that 2 weeks is enough to be dealing with getting rid of barnacles.

Freshwater, yes. Prolly doesn't help that our lagoon is a city rainfall outflow. Gotta be full of phosphates.

The rigging is built to take the stress, as long as it is placed correctly. This is why I/we mentioned careening from lower on the mast, like the jib halyard or at the spreaders.

Careening in the water, or on a sandy beach is no problem at all (as long as you're sure your rub rail isn't leaking, in the case of doing it in water)

When I careen the boat on the hard, I have removed everything from the boat and in particular, don't forget to remove the batteries, if they are the flooded type. I have used the mainsheet, tied to a rope, that was tied around the mast, at the spreaders. I also found it much easier to use two mainsheets in tandem (doubling the purchase). I have also (need room for this) just tied a long rope from the spreaders and to the trailer hitch on my truck and, carefully driven forward (abeam of the boat) to pull the boat over. Seems like I couldn't get it all the way over this way and had to hang from the mast to get it all the way.
I did leave the outboard in place, when I careened my 26X. This was not a problem either, but I would suggest letting it set for 24 hours, after it is level again, to let oil drain back into the lower end, before running it.
Careening the D is easy. With the mast removed, I just tie a line to the port stanchion base and tie it too my trailer hitch (with my truck on the starboard side). Drive forward until she's where you want her. But the D boat won't just lay there like the X. You must prop it with old tires or something before you can untie the rope.

I would wonder if careening at the dock (boat in the water) if it would be best to have the ballast tank empty, or full. In the promotional video, I think they have it full.

Hope this was helpful.

Best Breezes,
Steve K.

Steve K wrote: When I careen the boat on the hard, I have removed everything from the boat...

Hm. Too lazy to remove everything. What if I just remove the equipment on the high side?

Weekend update. Saturday made it out to the mooring about 11am (2.5 hour drive to Maine) and found two batteries not strong enough to crank. Half expected this as they are older batteries and I did not disconnect them. Went back to the car to grab a fresh battery, engine cranked right up. Lines to mooring chain were fine. No issues. Took the boat, main only with the wind about 3 miles to a cove. This was the longest and most productive sail at the time in about 8mph wind. Great rush. Spent the day in a protected cove anchored. Everything discussed about a less than ideal anchor set-up is true. The anchor is not big enough, not enough chain, etc. This will be upgraded. This day though we got a good bite in the mud and it was solid. Installed what I think was a 15w solar panel from harbor freight that I had kicking around the house. I had been using the panel to top off batteries in the garage and it had worked well. I’m interested to see the batteries are charged well enough to turn the engine over next weekend. Motored back in the evening with zero wind and spent the night on the dock.

The following Sunday woke up about 7am and decided it was time for the jib. Took some time to figure out and I’ll have a few questions at the end of this for the forum. After the jib was up and everything was secure we headed out in 0-5mph wind. What a difference the jib makes. Any small gust the loose jib caught us and pulled. Sailed out to the cove and anchored again for a repeat of the previous day. Tried out my Magna grill I received as a birthday gift, no complaints there. That afternoon we headed for the mooring in about 10mph winds. What a party. Felt great heading into it with about 10-15 degrees of heel, no issues or nerves as we made our way back to the mooring.

Couple questions: Couldn’t really understand how to correctly raise the jib on the CDI furler. And I guess my confusion comes down to this. The metal slug attached to the halyard in the flexible track; when raised should the slug be pulled to the bottom towards the deck or brought to the top towards the mast. Spent a lot of time with that one. Ha. And question number two; what size is the tubing rail on a 2000 26x? I’m looking to purchase a mount for the magma grill.

All in all a great second weekend with ‘Hydro Cut’. Really enjoying myself. Thanks again for the support.

millcity wrote:. . . what size is the tubing rail on a 2000 26x? I’m looking to purchase a mount for the magna grill.

My rails are all 1" dia. The mount for my small Magma kettle style came with a plastic bushing for 7/8" rails, but I don't need it, as the default bore is for 1" rails.

That big grill may require more than one mount. I don't know that, though. What I do know is that it's a bit tough to find a spot to mount the grill so it's relatively easy to use and not be at risk of getting smashed against a wall if mounted so it hangs over the side (in the canal locks, at least). I only mount mine when I'm actually going to use it, and keep it in a locker under the vee berth when I'm not. I don't remember offhand where it's been most convenient to use, as I've tried many different spots. I seem to remember using the stern rail with the helm seat up and secured so there's standing room while cooking, but that may not work with the large rectangular style you have.

Tomfoolery wrote:

millcity wrote:. . . what size is the tubing rail on a 2000 26x? I’m looking to purchase a mount for the magna grill.

My rails are all 1" dia. The mount for my small Magma kettle style came with a plastic bushing for 7/8" rails, but I don't need it, as the default bore is for 1" rails.

That big grill may require more than one mount. I don't know that, though. What I do know is that it's a bit tough to find a spot to mount the grill so it's relatively easy to use and not be at risk of getting smashed against a wall if mounted so it hangs over the side (in the canal locks, at least). I only mount mine when I'm actually going to use it, and keep it in a locker under the vee berth when I'm not. I don't remember offhand where it's been most convenient to use, as I've tried many different spots. I seem to remember using the stern rail with the helm seat up and secured so there's standing room while cooking, but that may not work with the large rectangular style you have.

Thanks for that measurement. I'm going to try it out with one mount and work my way up. I see your point about it being easy to smash. My hope is to leave it out but we'll see how that works.

Hello everyone! I’ve been meaning to update members on Hydro Cut for a long time now. Finally sat down to do it. I am going to post completed mods and products as best I can. My hope is that my hours of product research will benefit some. I’ll include current prices and locations but know they may change in the future.
Since my last post I have (and guests) gained comfort in heeling and I do have the roller furler figured out. Next season I am moving from my starter lake and $50 mooring to the big leagues. The new lake is nearly 6 times as large (much more if counting locks and connected lakes) and I will have a slip and shore power  .

Here are the mods, bow to stern, exterior then interior:
Stainless Steel Claw Anchor 16.5 pounds - $139 plus ship from ebay: gulfstream_marine_inc
Quite the upgrade from my old fluke. First night out it held the boat in 2, 30mph thunderstorms.

Amarine-made 16-1/4 Inch Stainless Steel Boat Anchor Roller – $59.99 Amazon
Installed slightly off-center to avoid cleat relocation and to allow the anchor to sit “just right” and avoid slamming into the bow.

Attwood LED 2-Mile Deck Mount Navigation Bow Light, Stainless Steel – $37.16 Amazon
Installed on aluminum L bracket found in a trash bin and then attached to the roller. Clears the anchor, super bright.



25A 5 Pin Waterproof Electrical Deck Plug Circular Cable Connector – $8.76 Amazon
I screwed this install up a few times with poor hole cut and poor soldering but it came out fine. Used this to augment existing deck plug for spreader lights.



Shoreline Marine LED Spreader/Docking Light - 2 Pack - $80ish Amazon
Had to mount at funny angle to get them tight to the mast but they look good and light the deck up nice.


SeaSense Marine 3 Way Switch Panel - $26.99 Amazon
Mounted at helm for rear light. Moved trim gauge. Will eventually have horn and nav lights wired in. 12v socket cover does not hold. Will be buying plug.

JBL MS6200 6.5-Inch 2-Way Marine Speakers (Pairs) - $59.95 Amazon
Mounted in cockpit to replace previously installed. Work great. With new radio it felt like a new boat.


Hot Dipped Galvanized Boat Delta Type Wing Anchor 22 Lbs For 32' To 41' Boat - $50 Ebay agastore2015
Might be the best deal in this list. What a beast of an anchor. Haven’t had to use it yet but feel great having it on board.

Solar Arch:
BIMINI TOP 3 Bow Boat Cover Black 73"-78" With Rear Poles & Integrated Sock - $82 Ebay usaoceansouth
I used this as my solar arch, kind of a proof in concept. I screwed one leg on each side into the gunnel and the others attached to the rails with stainless hinged jaw slide. Not saying it doesn’t sway a bit but it’s pretty dang solid for the price. We use it as a handrail in and out of the boat and I’m confident it would hold my weight If I needed it to. That said, would love to hire someone to weld me in something permanent.

Solar Panel PV Off Grid RV Boat 2pcs 100W Watts 200W 12 Volt Mono Cells Charger - $260 Ebay renogysolar
These are the ones you want hands down. Thought I could fit two but couldn’t, didn’t seem to need the other anyway. The 100w ran a 300w inverter charging batteries all day, while cranking the radio and kept full charge. The boat is always fully charged with the 100w. Will test with a 110 fridge this year and see how long it can hold up.

Renogy 30a charge controller - $48 Amazon
Works great, good display with lights that make sense.

LUMITEC INC 101103 LUMITEC CAPRERA 2 DUAL COLOR LED FLOOD LIGHT WHITE/RED - $134 ebay limitedgoods
Mounted under solar panels and wired to switch at helm. Pretty bright, cool one switch function.

Life ring – found at beach

Dual AMB600W Marine Bluetooth CD Receiver with Weatherband Tuner – $108 Amazon
Best thing I have purchased for the boat. Sounds great, Bluetooth is awesome. Like the style. Placed in existing custom mount.

Brightech - 2nd Generation BA15s LED Light Bulb Replacement - Warm White Color- Single Contact Bayonet Base - 10-30V DC - Replaces #1156 1141 1073 109 - $9 Amazon, direct replacement for interior, awesome color.

Bandc 6 Gang Marine Boat Bridge Control Switch Panel with LED Rocker Circuit Breaker 12v 24v - $48 Amazon
Another great addition to the interior. Great update and improvement to stock switches. Did my best to update and heat wrap wiring as I went.

Trailer mods – completely refinished with new tongue, brakes, lighting, actuator, winch, tires, paint.

Misc – Teak flooring, improved wiring, bilge paint (awesome), bilge pump, repainted rudders.

Future planned mods: updated galley with 110 microwave, fridge and mini kuerig for shore (currently underway), raymarine or garmin wind, depth, speed and chart plotter (can’t decide on company), gps laptop with open chart plotter, rear deck around engine, extend teak to head and under table, add full mattress for rear berth (twin now), extend v-berth, 19inch tv, hdtv antenna, wifi antenna.

Future – future: Add more solar and get an electric trolling motor off the back. 19g under v berth water tank, 90hp repower.

Current dilemmas: Garmin or Raymarine? Can’t keep the boat clean, hard water stains won’t seem to come off and don’t want to wet sand again, looking for a hard water product. Lots of rainwater coming in but I “think” I know where it is coming from, all the wires I pulled through the deck and didn’t adequately 5200.

Thanks again to all those members who post their work (my inspiration) and describe their learning moments in detail.

Spreader lights:


JBL's



Arch:

Arch:



Rotors:


Actuator: