mast raising system

[Interim]

When you talk about walking it up--one or two person--can you step on the top hatch? I'm worried about putting too much weight on it.

I'm 250lbs. Add my helper and the mast, and I worry. (we have a 26S). That is why I was thinking about putting one person on the foredeck to pull. I think we have plenty of strength; its the pressure on the hatch that I worry about.

--john

[81venture]

With the newer style MRS you do need to be careful you don't bend or get something tangled.....there is way more mechanical advantage so it would be easy to snag something and keep on cranking.

Trick is basic "situational awareness" is all.

The thing I like best about the MRS is if I get a snag, I can just stop where I am, or lower it slightly, and go untangle and then keep cranking.

When you try to step it up with your brute strength and get a tangle you have little choice but to put it back down,. and start over.

Like I said with the new system I have setup to under or around 10 minutes

for me thats what it is all about.

[Sea Wind]

My boat came with the gin pole but no other hardware, so the first couple of times I was lifting the mast while my wife pulled the furler from the bow, this helped with the weight and also kept it straight. It was fast but not recommended if you have a bad back; the hardest part was the switch from pulling the mast up to a push movement, then, we would switch places and I would wrestle pinning the furler. After that I started using the main sheet and blocks and added thin lines for the baby stays and a lever for the backstay. The advantage of the main sheet was that I could do it alone and did not have to run a line to a winch as the cam from the block was holding the weight and pinning the furler got easier. Then, I got the OEM baby stays and added the brake winch to the gin pole, now it can be done while holding a drink and I can pin the furler effortlessly. All I can say is that I wished I would have done it earlier; it is faster, safer and easier.

[K9Kampers]

... now it can be done while holding a drink ...

That's not why it's called a GIN pole!!... jus sayin'

[Tomfoolery]

Tomfoolery, I don't know that your MRS is any more tangle prone than the new one (or maybe it's just the fact that I'm an idiot and could tangle up a rock). I learned to leave mine connected at the mast base, and just coil the lines neatly and bungee them to the MRS pole when I go out for the day.

That's what I do when I drop the mast to go on a road trip. I just leave it in place and rigged, to save time at each end. But for sailing, I remove it and stow it in the stern berth.

When I took it off and stored it below, it turned into a pretty good mess (in a hurry and just tossed it under a seat), and just took more time to reconnect it at the end of the day.

If I'm motivated, I pin the lower block to the bolt through the bottom of the gin pole, so the blocks are at each end, and I only have to coil half as much line. Makes it easier to handle, as the weight is not all at one end, and the bottom block is not flopping around. Even when they're two-blocked (run tight into each other), it's still kind of a floppy mess, and the big coil of line hanging from all that doesn't help.

That looks like a pretty sweet setup you have worked out, and other than having to move from the cockpit to the bow maybe one additional time, doesn't seem to be any less convenient than the 26M version. I may be missing something, but I bet when I drop mine on the deck, that winch will do more damage than your rope and blocks...

Your comment actually has me thinking that I could reverse the two blocks, so I'm pulling from the top block, which would effectively make it a 6-part system. I use the main halyard rope clutch, which requires more time to thread, plus I have to work it from within the cockpit. Pulling the live end from the top block would be done from the bow, with the extra part helping when the mast is low (which also requires the most effort), and not helping at all when the mast is high (which requires the least effort). The only caveat is that I wouldn't have an automatic rope clutch, so the mast would fall if I had a heart attack or something. But I suppose I could tail it around one of the bow cleats, and cleat it off completely if/when I need to leave the bow to straighten out some rigging.

Maybe I'll try that next time. Just for fun.

[Don T]

Hello,
Here is my solution to the mess.
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?view=369

Don

[Jimmyt]

Nice job! Looks like you've got it under control. My boat is still in the early stages of becoming mine. Thanks for sharing your solution.

[Catigale]

Eureka!!!!!

I've resisted getting the MRS until I can fulfill my rule of every substantial piece of equipment must have three functions, and this morning I realise an MRS can also be

MRS
Solid dinghy tow bar
Small engine crane for tender motor
Bow support for hammock
Trailer support for furler at bow

Now to design and implement.....

Can someone tell me how long the MRS pole is please?

[Tomfoolery]

Can someone tell me how long the MRS pole is please?

1-1/2" OD x 1/8" wall x 6 ft long aluminium tube. Plus the 'pole straps' (BWY term), which add a few inches.

[K9Kampers]

...emergency makeshift tiller,
...defense against pirates,

[tp56ihs]

Walking Stick
All around light holder if in Trawler mode
Metal Diridigo

I think i'm stretching

[Tomfoolery]

All around light holder if in Trawler mode

I've actually considered putting a masthead (steaming) light on it for trawler mode. Just a proper 2-mile 225 degree white, mounted to something that would plug into the top of the pole. Support the MRS pole with static line to the bow attachment, and maybe baby stays to the lifeline stanchions, if they're in the right place. Gotta have attachments aft of the mast step, that won't interfere with the dodger.

Hmmmm, have to think about that one.

[WASP18]

I built a small mast to support a battery operated light using a white, square-shaped plastic fence post about three feet high. It is slightly higher than the dodger. The fence post nearly matches the footprint of the mast step on top of the cabin. Drilled a hole at the base of the fence post and inserted the bolt used for the mast raising system. I also added a wooden shim to prevent a slight wobble. Purchased a portable black rubber LED light from West Marine, drilled a hole at the top of the "fence post" and attached the light. I added some duct tape on the rear of the light to prevent cockpit glare and to comply with the 225 degree requirement. The LED light, by the way, is very bright! http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-mari ... --15830524

If I ever need an anchor light, I simply remove the duct tape for 360 degree coverage.

The fence post was free. I went to a local fence company and asked if they had any scrap.

[Catigale]

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...