Ohohhhhh!
Were you able to get whatever it is off yet?
There’s gonna be a weeee bit o imbalance …….
Sorry to see/hear about the SNAFU…. Stuff happens and truth is we all have had similar experiences at one point or another.
(Doesn’t mean any of us like them but all one can do is roll with it and move along.
Be Free wrote: ↑Sun May 03, 2026 11:18 am
That's not the flywheel.
I know. It's the cam pulley.
BF-50.jpg
Let me 'splain.
I tried to jam the flywheel (with screwdriver and pliers) but there's no grab points - none. Everything I tried just slipped. I jammed something in the teeth but it still damaged to slip and fall out. There was just no way to get a secure purchase on the flywheel.
So I jammed a driver bit into the hole on the top of the cam pulley. It did stop the whole belt/pulley so I could get a grip on the four bolts but even with a torque wrench none of the four the bolts would budge. Next step is some WD-40.
But I'm not sure there's any need. I was able get a very good look under the flywheel. It looks spic-n-span. Nothing out of place, no bits of wrapper - paper or plastic, no frayed wires - it looks practically brand new. I checked every wire and connector.
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So: oil problem. I am now satisfied that this is unrelated to the noise problem but it's too late to separate them out of the thread now.
When I went back the engine this season, I ran it for about 30 seconds. A little later, I checked the oil level. (probably not the wisest plan)
A perfect parabolic arc of oil (one to two inches high) came out of the dipstick tube. (Last week, I got in a lot of trouble from club Commodore for not jumping on the cleanup fast enough, so this time I was prepared).
The oil was dark brown/black. No bubbles, no milkiness.
Tried to use my extractor to pull oil from the oil fill, but I could not get it down far enough. It just hit aluminum/steel.
After a while, I tried the dipstick again and it didn't gush this time, so I was able to use the extractor to pull about a half litre out. I could not get a good read on the dipstick, since the fill tube was all lined with oil. But I'm happy now that at least the oil situation is under control.
Have you been able to inspect the entire timing belt? Nothing frayed; no teeth missing?
Any chance the noise is coming from the tensioner? Does it have play or wobble if you try to move it (when the engine is off!)?
There are a limited number of things that move or are close to things that move on the top of the engine.
Bill
2001 26X Simple Interest
Honda BF40D
"If I were in a hurry I would not have bought a sailboat." Me
Whoa! Fully understand the not wanting to get the side of your head near rotating objects!
Personally I use a probe such as a long shank screwdriver or better yet one of these thingys from Harbor Freight or an automotive tool supplier
It allows you to see what you are placing the probe on whereas the screwdriver still has your head cocked away from the rotating bits.
Cranial reconstruction via running outboard is a potentially specialized limited Darwin Award classification.
My grandfather showed me the sound finding trick using a big, old, long, wood handled screwdriver up to the ear while working on oilfield trucks when I was just a small child. Still have it. Still use it.
I’ve found this method actually works better than a sound probe. That will pick up the audible sounds. But it may not register the actual vibration. A subtle difference sometimes. This method allows you to sense both.