Shore Power Installation - Opinions Please.
- Divecoz
- Admiral
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Re: Shore Power Installation - Opinions Please.
Go figure I guess we should have looked there first ..... now where did you find a link that allows searching that document for free?
Just this portion..... AC & DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS ON BOATS
Member Price: $65.00
Non-Member Price: $195.00
So Hamin whos giving free access on the net???????????
BTW if anyone should desire a very Incomplete set $$$$$$$
AC & DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS ON BOATS $65.00 $195.00
A-27 ALTERNATING CURRENT (AC) GENERATOR SETS $25.00 $50.00
T-1 ALUMINUM APPLICATIONS (previously S-1) $25.00 $50.00
H-40 ANCHORING, MOORING, AND LIFTING $25.00 $50.00
TA-27 BATTERIES AND BATTERY CHARGERS $25.00 $50.00
A-31 BATTERY CHARGERS AND INVERTERS $25.00 $50.00
Just this portion..... AC & DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS ON BOATS
Member Price: $65.00
Non-Member Price: $195.00
So Hamin whos giving free access on the net???????????
BTW if anyone should desire a very Incomplete set $$$$$$$
AC & DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS ON BOATS $65.00 $195.00
A-27 ALTERNATING CURRENT (AC) GENERATOR SETS $25.00 $50.00
T-1 ALUMINUM APPLICATIONS (previously S-1) $25.00 $50.00
H-40 ANCHORING, MOORING, AND LIFTING $25.00 $50.00
TA-27 BATTERIES AND BATTERY CHARGERS $25.00 $50.00
A-31 BATTERY CHARGERS AND INVERTERS $25.00 $50.00
- Hamin' X
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- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
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Re: Shore Power Installation - Opinions Please.
As far as I know, ABYC codes are not available online. I found three references to the same code and two pictures. It's sorta like NEC in that way. I like the pictures:

However, I think that the guy that did this install that this thread is about should have bought the book.
~Rich

However, I think that the guy that did this install that this thread is about should have bought the book.
~Rich
- Divecoz
- Admiral
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- Location: PORT CHARLOTTE FLORIDA 05 M Mercury 50 H.P. Big Foot Bill at Boats 4 Sail is my Hero
Re: Shore Power Installation - Opinions Please.
Your ABYC drawing shows the combining of AC and DC systems? It Shows AC GND to engine GND???
Grounding
The green "grounding" wire in AC circuits provides a low resistance path to ground should any of the various metal cases enclosing your AC system become energized. But what if the leak is into the DC wiring, caused, for example, by crossed wires or a short in a battery charger, inverter, or other dual-voltage appliance? AC leaking into the DC system will seek ground, meaning it will automatically travel through the wiring to the ground connection on the engine and down the prop shaft to the water. This is essentially the same as dropping a hot wire into the water. In fresh water, this poses a real risk of electrocution for anyone in the water nearby. Electrocution is less likely in saltwater, but the current field can be enough to paralyze muscles and cause a swimmer to drown.
Or you may choose
AC Ground
See Practical Sailor August 15, 1995 for a detailed treatment of the green wire. The best solution is a heavy and expensive isolation transformer. The acceptable solution (for the rest of us) is to install a light and inexpensive Galvanic Isolator in the green wire, between the shorepower cord socket on your boat, and the connection to the boat's AC panel. Then, connect the grounding conductor (green) of the AC panel directly to the engine negative terminal or its bus. Note that this meets the ABYC recommendation. In choosing Galvanic Isolators, make sure that you select one that has a continuous current rating that is at least 135% the current rating on the circuit breaker on your dock box. Certain Galvanic Isolators (e.g. Quicksilver) include large capacitors in parallel with the isolation diodes, which in certain situations theoretically provide better galvanic protection. Unfortunately, these units cost substantially more than conventional Galvanic Isolators. If you feel like spending real money on galvanic isolation, you might as well do it right and buy an isolation transformer.
Grounding
The green "grounding" wire in AC circuits provides a low resistance path to ground should any of the various metal cases enclosing your AC system become energized. But what if the leak is into the DC wiring, caused, for example, by crossed wires or a short in a battery charger, inverter, or other dual-voltage appliance? AC leaking into the DC system will seek ground, meaning it will automatically travel through the wiring to the ground connection on the engine and down the prop shaft to the water. This is essentially the same as dropping a hot wire into the water. In fresh water, this poses a real risk of electrocution for anyone in the water nearby. Electrocution is less likely in saltwater, but the current field can be enough to paralyze muscles and cause a swimmer to drown.
Or you may choose
AC Ground
See Practical Sailor August 15, 1995 for a detailed treatment of the green wire. The best solution is a heavy and expensive isolation transformer. The acceptable solution (for the rest of us) is to install a light and inexpensive Galvanic Isolator in the green wire, between the shorepower cord socket on your boat, and the connection to the boat's AC panel. Then, connect the grounding conductor (green) of the AC panel directly to the engine negative terminal or its bus. Note that this meets the ABYC recommendation. In choosing Galvanic Isolators, make sure that you select one that has a continuous current rating that is at least 135% the current rating on the circuit breaker on your dock box. Certain Galvanic Isolators (e.g. Quicksilver) include large capacitors in parallel with the isolation diodes, which in certain situations theoretically provide better galvanic protection. Unfortunately, these units cost substantially more than conventional Galvanic Isolators. If you feel like spending real money on galvanic isolation, you might as well do it right and buy an isolation transformer.
- Divecoz
- Admiral
- Posts: 3803
- Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 2:54 pm
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- Location: PORT CHARLOTTE FLORIDA 05 M Mercury 50 H.P. Big Foot Bill at Boats 4 Sail is my Hero
Re: Shore Power Installation - Opinions Please.
Page 552 of Caseys Maintenance Manual good old Don clearly shows the use of a (YEP and a cheap crap problem prone residential breaker as well) as a residential 2 pole sub panel for use on a boat....
.... though he is using throat-ed bushings for ingree egress T G!!!. We (
I ) are now excepting the use of a single throw dual pole 30 amp breaker for our main Disconnect breaker. Dons diagram shows ground going to ground Terra firma not ??????? engine ground???
OH BTW you can find numerous portions of the ABYC at West Marine and other sites as well...
OH BTW you can find numerous portions of the ABYC at West Marine and other sites as well...
- Hamin' X
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Re: Shore Power Installation - Opinions Please.
Yes, the AC and DC grounds should be common on the boat and the AC neutral and AC ground should be separate on the boat. Should the AC get into the DC, the AC ground will trip the AC breaker, either at the shore power entrance breaker, or the marina pedestal. Without this common ground, if AC were to get into the DC system, it would seek a path through the water and any unfortunate swimmer between the boat and shore ground.Divecoz wrote:Your ABYC drawing shows the combining of AC and DC systems? It Shows AC GND to engine GND???
Grounding
The green "grounding" wire in AC circuits provides a low resistance path to ground should any of the various metal cases enclosing your AC system become energized. But what if the leak is into the DC wiring, caused, for example, by crossed wires or a short in a battery charger, inverter, or other dual-voltage appliance? AC leaking into the DC system will seek ground, meaning it will automatically travel through the wiring to the ground connection on the engine and down the prop shaft to the water. This is essentially the same as dropping a hot wire into the water. In fresh water, this poses a real risk of electrocution for anyone in the water nearby. Electrocution is less likely in saltwater, but the current field can be enough to paralyze muscles and cause a swimmer to drown.
~Rich
-
Hardcrab
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Re: Shore Power Installation - Opinions Please.
Great stuff posting the wiring diagram.
Thanks.
Since I usually work with the insides of black boxes and understand how stuff works, does anyone know what components or have a schematic of what's inside the optional "Galvanic Isolator"?
According to the diagram, the third wire is going to where?
Electricity is not voodoo, but this yellow box is bordering on it, at least as shown.
I'm just curious.
On Edit:
Googled it, the above diagram is either misleading or wrong. No third wire.
Two or four 50 Amp diodes wired 180 out to present an open circuit only to voltages less than .6 to 1.2 volts.
$100 bucks for $5.00 worth of parts.
Cool.
Bend over.
Thanks.
Since I usually work with the insides of black boxes and understand how stuff works, does anyone know what components or have a schematic of what's inside the optional "Galvanic Isolator"?
According to the diagram, the third wire is going to where?
Electricity is not voodoo, but this yellow box is bordering on it, at least as shown.
I'm just curious.
On Edit:
Googled it, the above diagram is either misleading or wrong. No third wire.
Two or four 50 Amp diodes wired 180 out to present an open circuit only to voltages less than .6 to 1.2 volts.
$100 bucks for $5.00 worth of parts.
Cool.
Bend over.
Last edited by Hardcrab on Thu May 21, 2009 8:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
- markh1f
- Engineer
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- Location: Jacksonville, FL
Re: Shore Power Installation - Opinions Please.
Found this from ABYC online - E-11 AC & DC Electrical Systems:
https://www.abyc.com/committees/.%5CE-11.pdf
Mark
https://www.abyc.com/committees/.%5CE-11.pdf
Mark
-
SkiDeep2001
- Captain
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Re: Shore Power Installation - Opinions Please.
Very Good Markmarkh1f wrote:Found this from ABYC online - E-11 AC & DC Electrical Systems:
https://www.abyc.com/committees/.%5CE-11.pdf Very Good MarkNow I think I'll need to brush up on my reading comprehension
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Mark
