Steering cable snapped?

[enufsed]

I have a question about removing the steering cable at the stern of the boat.

I undid the large nut that attaches the cable hose to the mechanism that moves the rudders and engine, removing the outer metal "sleeve" inside which the metal rod moves right and left.

It's not obvious to me how I'm supposed to get at the end of the actual cable inside the hose. Is the cable supposed to detach from the metal rod at the end, or what? The photos from the 40-photo set don't show this and I don't want to just "force" it and end up damaging something.

Assistance with this detail greatly appreciated.

[enufsed]

Dudes, I need an answer to the above question please. I'm working on the boat again tomorrow (Saturday). Thanks!

[c130king]

When I removed my cable 4 years ago on my which will obviously be slightly different than on your I seem to recall that there was a metal "rod" (for lack of a more appropriate or the actual" word) that came out of the end of the plastic sheath/covering. This rod was attached to the rudder mechanism...disconnected that. Then if I remember correctly there was a support bracket connected to the boat right where the plastic sheathing/coating ended and there was a nut that was tighted down at that point to hold the cable in place so that when the steering rod (inside the plastic sheathing/coating) was moved it only moved the rudder mechanism...I disconnected that nut.

At that point I simply pulled the entire steering cable...still attached to the rack/pinion...up through the steering pedastal. Then installed the new one back down throught the pedastal and connected it the same way the old one was connected.

There was a plastic wrap around the cables including all the power cables and stuff under the bunk (designed to hold all the cables/cords together)...simply unwrapped that before I pulled out the steering cable and then rewrapped when I put the new one in.

I am a complete mechanical klutz and it didn't seem to difficult to figure this out. Makes me wonder if the is not rigged a lot differently.

Good luck.

Jim

[Don T]

Hello,
It sounds like you are pondering how to get the steel cable out of the plastic sheath but in fact the entire assembly is removed and replaced. Disconnect the cable from the linkage parts by loosening the big nut. The stainless tubes at the end of the cable (one inside the other) are an integral part of the cable assembly. If you look at pictures of replacement cables on the internet you will see what comes with them and what is part of the assembly. Disconnect the cable from the steering head in the pedestal and pull it out. The ends are greasy so protect the cushions below as you remove it. Maybe have a helper for that part. Order a new cable paying attention to the type of steering head and length. Route the replacement cable the same way and re-connect the ends.

Good luck / good fun!

[enufsed]

On Saturday I finally removed the old steering cable, carefully following the guidance kindly offered in this message thread.

Thankfully there was nothing wrong with the gears behind the steering wheel, which I dismantled. The culprit was the metal cable, which had snapped inside the rubber hose at the stern end, where it attaches to the metal rod that controls the left-right motion of the engine and rudders. I easily pulled out this metal cable and discovered the frayed, broken end.

I'll visit Dowsar Marine Supplies in Hamilton, bringing along the ruined cable and parts, and buy as exact a replacement as is possible. I could find no product code on the parts but measured the cable at about 99 inches and the hose (including the metal rod collapsed to its shortest dimension) at about 92 inches. (The measurements are approximate only because it was difficult to perfectly straighten these items, but I'm likely within a half inch of the true measurement.)

I'll report here about how installation of the new steering cable goes, once I buy the replacement parts.

(And posters here were correct -- removal of the old cable was not as difficult as I had imagined, such is the power of the unknown to intimidate. I took photos with my iPhone at every step to make sure I re-install everything correctly. It was a great help knowing from expanations here such things as that the wheel nut requires a 15/16 socket -- which I had to buy specially -- and not having to guess or buy a large set.)

[enufsed]

I called Dowsar marine supply (which specializes in MacGregor) and was disappointed to learn that I cannot simply replace the old Morse cable, while retaining the original wheel gear, etc. of my boat.

They tell me I must replace the whole steering system (recommending the RotoTech, as others have here). I suppose I gain the benefit of those nice planetary gears. I do hope the installation of this is simple -- the salesperson mentioned I might have to drill new holes (i.e., stating that only one of the three bolt holes of the old Morse gear will line up with the new equipment, though he said he wasn't sure).

Now I have to figure out once and for all what length of cable and hose I need to buy. I recall earlier in this thread some people saying they bought 10-foot systems. I measured the old hose: including the metal rod at the stern end (in its shortest "collapsed" dimension) it measures about 92 inches. That suggests to me that I need a system where the hose and metal rod is 8 feet long not including the extra amount of cable that goes through the gear and sticks out the other side (encased in the white plastic cover on the old Morse unit).

I wonder if I should get an 8 foot set-up like that, or 10 foot? i.e., I suppose I could bend the extra slack of the longer hose in a long lazy "S" shape under the cockpit (attached to the roof above the narrow sleeping berth) and it would make no difference to the performance of the steering cable.

Any thoughts on what I should buy? I'm also curious about whether I can keep my old wheel or not (the concern being that my autopilot is already nicely attached to it, with all parts lining up on the binnacle).

[enufsed]

This week I bought an 8 foot steering cable system (Rototech), as that was the length stamped on the old Morse system that snapped.

I'll report here how the installation goes this weekend. I was warned by the vendor that I might have to re-drill some holes on the attachment plate as the new system does not exactly match the old one. He said the holes are close but I might have to make some "oblong" to get the bolts through. We'll see.

[enufsed]

Today I completed installation of the new steering system (Rotech) on my 1998 MacGregor X, making use of the valuable insights in this thread.

The job went smoothly, taking a bit longer because there was rain over the weekend and I worked under a makeshift tent created by tying a tarp over the cockpit (using the lowered mast as a center support).

I elected not to use the new wheel that came with the kit, as it is not as nice as my old wheel and besides, my Raymarine auto pilot is attached to the old wheel and would not really have worked with the new one.

The eight (8) foot cable system I bought fit perfectly. Although there are some differences in the configuration of the Rotech assembly (between the wheel and gear box), in the end everything works out about the same. Thankfully, the location of the three bolts that attach the gear box to the binnacle (pedestal) are exactly the same as what they were replacing (which had been a big worry of mine).

The only modification I had to make was to take a hacksaw and shorten a cyclindrical piece of metal that secures my auto pilot to the binnacle (which took only a few minutes and some careful measuring), as the new setup caused my wheel to be about an inch (or less) closer to the binnacle.

So now when I turn my wheel, my engine and rudders move back and forth. (And in the proper direction, too!) Yay!

Thanks again to everyone for their advice in what was for me a pretty significant repair.

[DaveB]

Hey Dude,
Ya got it fixed...right On Dude!
Dave

Today I completed installation of the new steering system (Rotech) on my 1998 MacGregor X, making use of the valuable insights in this thread.

The job went smoothly, taking a bit longer because there was rain over the weekend and I worked under a makeshift tent created by tying a tarp over the cockpit (using the lowered mast as a center support).

I elected not to use the new wheel that came with the kit, as it is not as nice as my old wheel and besides, my Raymarine auto pilot is attached to the old wheel and would not really have worked with the new one.

The eight (8) foot cable system I bought fit perfectly. Although there are some differences in the configuration of the Rotech assembly (between the wheel and gear box), in the end everything works out about the same. Thankfully, the location of the three bolts that attach the gear box to the binnacle (pedestal) are exactly the same as what they were replacing (which had been a big worry of mine).

The only modification I had to make was to take a hacksaw and shorten a cyclindrical piece of metal that secures my auto pilot to the binnacle (which took only a few minutes and some careful measuring), as the new setup caused my wheel to be about an inch (or less) closer to the binnacle.

So now when I turn my wheel, my engine and rudders move back and forth. (And in the proper direction, too!) Yay!

Thanks again to everyone for their advice in what was for me a pretty significant repair.

[MCO98]

After reading this forum for years, I was finally able to buy a 98X a few weeks ago. I have been working on cleaning it up( the hatch had been left open and rain got in, so lots of mold and mildew to remove), and have begun to do some upgrades to the systems. In regard to the steering, it appears as if I have the original steering configuration, After reading about many of you having the steering break, I have decided to replace mine with the U-Flex Rotech system. The questions I have are as follows.
It seems that my steering cable is the 96" cable. By looking at other pictures here, It seems that my cables exit at different locations than the other 26X's that I have seen on this board. Are these put in, in the factory , or by the dealer? Should I get a longer cable and route it over the the far wall. Also can I screw tie wrap clamps into the ceiling of the aft berth, And If yes, what screws shoud I use. It took me a lot of looking , but I finally have my 26X . This is a great forum, and I am happy to have joined the ranks of an owner. Now if I can just finish all that has to be done. Maybe one day I can get it in the water .

http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i37 ... ering3.jpg
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i37 ... ering5.jpg
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i37 ... ering6.jpg
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i37 ... ering2.jpg

[puffect]

Welcome and yes...dealers get boats shipped to them and they configure... which should explain the various cable lengths due to routing. I am attempting same project soon and will have to pull cable for measuring if there is no marking. Since you just completed this project..any further recommendations? (sent you a pm)

Only short stainless steel screws to match clamp/bracket holes with 5200 to lessen vibration and seal.

Once you get it out...post pictures...we all love to reminence ... what that 1st time out feeling was like.