First:
Bill, thank you very much for the offer, but no thank you. As I was planning to head to Hawaii anyway, I would not feel completely comfortable accepting assistance for something already in the making.
James:
I can't really say much on how you should set up your boat as a live-aboard, but I will give you an idea of what I did & if some of it sounds like something you would like to try, I would be more than happy to go into more detail. In my opinion the two biggest technical issues for extended living are ground tackle (assuming you are like me and really don't see much reason to pay someone to tie-off in their slip or on their mooring) & Electrical Collection, Storage, & Useage (especially if you are a power hog like me and have A/C, Microwave, Water-maker, Ice Maker, Freezer, etc.-you get the picture).
The following is Zeno's Arrow's Electrical Collection & Storage System (keep in mind I'm often far, far from places where I can get things fixed so I go a little overboard on back-up systems). Hopefully, the folks taking pictures for me will read this first and try and get some shots of these things;
2 x Lifeline 4D AGM Batts. (one placed Port & One Starboard-completely isolated from each other, i.e. they run different things. #1 is for sailing related functions such as Radar, AutoPilots, Nav. lights, etc. #2 is all house systems. And yes the extra cost is well worth getting rid of pain-in-the-ass wet cell batts., especially if you plan to spend time in rough conditions or rocky anchorages.
2 x 15 W. Solar Panels, 1 for each bank (plan to get 2 more 30 W. soon)
1 x Airmarine Wind Turbine (10 yrs. old and still working just fine).
1 x Honda 2kw. Gen. (great for charging batts. & making ice at the same time).
1 x 750 W. Inverter/Smart Charger.
1 x 20 amp. Smart Charger.
1 x 750 back-up portable inverter
1 x 10 amp. back-up portable charger.
1 x 10 amp. alternater (Nissan 18 hp. 4 stroke).
1 x (21 switch) Blue Sea 12 V distribution panel with digital multi-meter.
1 x (9 switch) 110V. panel wth 2 source lockout & analog meter.
I think that is about it., next post on systems I'll go over usage. Maddmike
Zeno's Arrow
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Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL
- Admiral
- Posts: 1006
- Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2004 7:28 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26D
- Location: Oconomowoc, WI
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Newell
- First Officer
- Posts: 439
- Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2004 1:42 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Layton, Utah, 96X Fast Sunday, 89D Windancer
Zeno's Arrow
Maddmike,
I haven't read this entire thread so don't know if you are real, but you seem knowledgable. If you have a 96 26X then you haven't been voyaging for 10 years. I got mine in May 96 and put it on Tahoe in June for a week. There was a X I located in the Tahoe Keys and it could have been yours.
Still waiting for more info to verify some of your claims.
I haven't read this entire thread so don't know if you are real, but you seem knowledgable. If you have a 96 26X then you haven't been voyaging for 10 years. I got mine in May 96 and put it on Tahoe in June for a week. There was a X I located in the Tahoe Keys and it could have been yours.
Still waiting for more info to verify some of your claims.
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Frank C
Newell,Newell wrote:Maddmike,
I haven't read this entire thread so don't know if you are real, but you seem knowledgable. ... Still waiting for more info to verify some of your claims.
Perhaps you really should read the entire thread ...
(been down that road & covered some of that terrain already).
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Gerald Gordon
- First Officer
- Posts: 284
- Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2004 9:58 pm
- Location: O'ahu, Hawai'i
Cruising for 10 years
Newell,
Actually I've been a cruiser and/or live-aboard sailor for a lot more than 10 years. Owened 1/2 of a Swift 33 & then later a CSY 44 for quite some time. Zeno's Arrow is a 1996 model boat. However, it was built in Oct. '95 and delivered to me at the Calif. -Nev. border from the factory the first week of Nov. '95 (boat is registered in Oregon-tax-cruising thing). The boat went into the water at San Felipie(sp?) in the Sea of Cortez later that week. Thus, Nov. '95 to Nov. '05 = 10 years. and yes I have not spent every night for the last 10 years on the boat (right now is a good example), but, I have spent well over 80% of that time eating, sleeping, & sailing on the boat. Never occured to me I might someday need to prorate it out. Also, as stated before the boat was in a slip in Logan Shoals, not Tahoe Keys. The good news is I just received a whole bunch of pix of the boat, complements of Tahoe Jack & will start posting them on my 'off-shore' thread at macgregorowners.com, but will continue the decussion thread here. The bad news is that someone int the last few day managed to unbolt, cut the locks & walk away with my new 2005 18hp. Nissan, long shaft electric/hand start outboard (and from the pix, they managed to really trash the transom in the process). However, my 2, 6hp. are safely stored elsewhere. I will be starting a "KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN' thread sometime today, with a description of markings on the motor.
Actually I've been a cruiser and/or live-aboard sailor for a lot more than 10 years. Owened 1/2 of a Swift 33 & then later a CSY 44 for quite some time. Zeno's Arrow is a 1996 model boat. However, it was built in Oct. '95 and delivered to me at the Calif. -Nev. border from the factory the first week of Nov. '95 (boat is registered in Oregon-tax-cruising thing). The boat went into the water at San Felipie(sp?) in the Sea of Cortez later that week. Thus, Nov. '95 to Nov. '05 = 10 years. and yes I have not spent every night for the last 10 years on the boat (right now is a good example), but, I have spent well over 80% of that time eating, sleeping, & sailing on the boat. Never occured to me I might someday need to prorate it out. Also, as stated before the boat was in a slip in Logan Shoals, not Tahoe Keys. The good news is I just received a whole bunch of pix of the boat, complements of Tahoe Jack & will start posting them on my 'off-shore' thread at macgregorowners.com, but will continue the decussion thread here. The bad news is that someone int the last few day managed to unbolt, cut the locks & walk away with my new 2005 18hp. Nissan, long shaft electric/hand start outboard (and from the pix, they managed to really trash the transom in the process). However, my 2, 6hp. are safely stored elsewhere. I will be starting a "KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN' thread sometime today, with a description of markings on the motor.
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waternwaves
- Admiral
- Posts: 1499
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 8:18 pm
- Location: X less in North Puget Sound -have to sail other boats for a while
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Tom Root
- Captain
- Posts: 560
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 11:39 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Annville, PA. s/v-Great White, MacX4787A202,'09 Suzuki DF-50
Mike, so sorry for your losses. And people out there think pirates are a big issue to be concerned with while cruising. I am sure that insurance adjusters can attest that boats in storage have greater losses than boats afloat!
Newell, he's the real deal, I could tell by writing style etc. We can learn much from his adventures, and also the advantages gained by the setups, mods etc. Honestly, he IS one of the reasons I got the X boat in the 1st place, and I mean that! I followed the Zeno's Arrow website for many years and was dissapointed to see it go away!
Unlike F.M., who has an amazing website but most of it B.S., Mike did it, and is continuing to use the X platform as a conveyance to adventure, he has inspired me for a long time!
Newell, he's the real deal, I could tell by writing style etc. We can learn much from his adventures, and also the advantages gained by the setups, mods etc. Honestly, he IS one of the reasons I got the X boat in the 1st place, and I mean that! I followed the Zeno's Arrow website for many years and was dissapointed to see it go away!
Unlike F.M., who has an amazing website but most of it B.S., Mike did it, and is continuing to use the X platform as a conveyance to adventure, he has inspired me for a long time!
Modification photo's now posted
OK guys, thanks to a little help from other MAC sailors I have now started posting photos at the macgregorowners.com site, as they seem to be set up for dummies like me to post pix. Have fun & looking forward to any comments (good, bad, or otherwise). I will now go back & start posting interior photos per requests. Cheers, Maddmike
Wow! Very cool Mike. I like what you've done. That's what I call making it your own.
Couple questions (I'm sure they'll be more)....
1) What material did you use for the flooring and trim? I'm especially curious about the lighter contrasting color on the floor panels.
2) How do the outriggers actually attach to the mounts? Do you put them on both sides usually? Are they used only without water ballast?
Thanks for posting!
Couple questions (I'm sure they'll be more)....
1) What material did you use for the flooring and trim? I'm especially curious about the lighter contrasting color on the floor panels.
2) How do the outriggers actually attach to the mounts? Do you put them on both sides usually? Are they used only without water ballast?
Thanks for posting!
Some answers to questions
James;
I posted some ground tackle pixs (usual place), somebody please post there so I don't look like I'm talking to myself (not that I don't do that on long hauls, likely how I ended up with the Maddmike handle).
Specs: 3 Anchors, Stainless Steel Plow, Oversize Fortress (both on bow, Plow on oversized bowroller) + Stern Danforth Anchor. All use 20' of 7/16 Stainless Steel chain (I hate rust!) & 300' on each of 1/2 rode. I also carry 300' of poly line for the Paratech Sea Anchor. The Fortress is my usual anchor & the rode is in the stock well. The Plow rode passes under & below the forward V Birth.
On floor material; The 'fake wood' siding & flooring covers some Carbon Fiber work and is stock synthetic stuff that can be found at Lowels & Home Depot and is riveted in place. Very weather resistant (I even use it in the cockpit).
On Outriggers: The Leopard tudes are always used as a set (one each side) and attach to the mounts with multiple 1" webbing (like on a whitewater raft frame). The shocks are attached from the hull to the tubes (not the mounts) & thus allow for the rig to take quite a pounding without transfering the full load to the hull. Additionally, you might be able to see where the bolts that attach the 'release' plates extend into the cabin. This is so I can attach a cross brace (carbon-fiber) for support when things get wild. They are removed otherwise. Anything else??? Cheers, Mike
I posted some ground tackle pixs (usual place), somebody please post there so I don't look like I'm talking to myself (not that I don't do that on long hauls, likely how I ended up with the Maddmike handle).
Specs: 3 Anchors, Stainless Steel Plow, Oversize Fortress (both on bow, Plow on oversized bowroller) + Stern Danforth Anchor. All use 20' of 7/16 Stainless Steel chain (I hate rust!) & 300' on each of 1/2 rode. I also carry 300' of poly line for the Paratech Sea Anchor. The Fortress is my usual anchor & the rode is in the stock well. The Plow rode passes under & below the forward V Birth.
On floor material; The 'fake wood' siding & flooring covers some Carbon Fiber work and is stock synthetic stuff that can be found at Lowels & Home Depot and is riveted in place. Very weather resistant (I even use it in the cockpit).
On Outriggers: The Leopard tudes are always used as a set (one each side) and attach to the mounts with multiple 1" webbing (like on a whitewater raft frame). The shocks are attached from the hull to the tubes (not the mounts) & thus allow for the rig to take quite a pounding without transfering the full load to the hull. Additionally, you might be able to see where the bolts that attach the 'release' plates extend into the cabin. This is so I can attach a cross brace (carbon-fiber) for support when things get wild. They are removed otherwise. Anything else??? Cheers, Mike
Questions on water ballast & electrical system
Per the questions on water ballast. No I have not altered the system, other than the following;
I sealed the lower intake point & use only the stern access system for draining as my water ballest is fresh water made with the water-maker and this water is removed using a pump. Also, the valve that releases the lower 'hole' broke-off at sea one day & in order to keep the boat from flooding (my waterline in about 3" lower than most), I had to drill the small 1/4" hole where the all thread bolt went into a 1" hole so I could plug it with a spare drain plug I had on board at the time. Very interesting exercise, standing in your boat in the middle of the ocean drilling a hole in the floor with water gushing up & the drill sending it everywhere, not recommended except as a last resort. Also, the lower entry point was also letting some salt water in regardless of how tight it was, thus instead of fixing it-I plugged it.
On electrics; I do not have the same problems as most cruisers because I do not have to depend on my system to start the engine. In fact until I got (and lost) the 18hp, my starting system was strictly hand pull, never had to worry about failing to start at least one of two engines to get off a lee shore (unless of course I broke both arms)
I sealed the lower intake point & use only the stern access system for draining as my water ballest is fresh water made with the water-maker and this water is removed using a pump. Also, the valve that releases the lower 'hole' broke-off at sea one day & in order to keep the boat from flooding (my waterline in about 3" lower than most), I had to drill the small 1/4" hole where the all thread bolt went into a 1" hole so I could plug it with a spare drain plug I had on board at the time. Very interesting exercise, standing in your boat in the middle of the ocean drilling a hole in the floor with water gushing up & the drill sending it everywhere, not recommended except as a last resort. Also, the lower entry point was also letting some salt water in regardless of how tight it was, thus instead of fixing it-I plugged it.
On electrics; I do not have the same problems as most cruisers because I do not have to depend on my system to start the engine. In fact until I got (and lost) the 18hp, my starting system was strictly hand pull, never had to worry about failing to start at least one of two engines to get off a lee shore (unless of course I broke both arms)