Just ask mike

[Hamin' X]

Ok Why is it when you call a wrong number, they are always in!!!????

Mork

It's the same reason that you always find what you are looking for, in the last place that you look for it.

Rich

[aya16]

sure the big wires from the motor (red/black) will do the charging. dont worry about over charging. the engine has a regulator. The perko switch will have a wire diagram that will give you some wire options. yes you want to use a common ground, neg to neg on the batterys. I would use
a three way perko if there is such an animal. seperate all the batterys if you want. Or wire the house batterys together and the starting battery
seperate.
How you do that is all the neg. will connect together and the two house batts. will run the hot to one side of the perko switch (battery two)
then the starting battery to (battery one) term. on the perko. you will get the idea when you buy the switch.
all the lights and other mac wires (hot) will be run to the perko switch term. two. take the crappy fuse holder/fuse out of the mac, you will find that by the batterys. I ran my electric sink pump direct to a battery as I wanted this to work if the battery was turned off. It has its own fuse. any
bilge pumps will be run direct too. With their own fuse above the water line.

As far as beefing up the transom, Thats what I was going to do, plywood 3/4 marine inside. Then use the largest stainless washers you can get and make the aluminum plate like you said inside and out make sure the aluminum plate doesnt hit the corners of the transom. And round off the corners. then use a large washer. you dont want to stack washers as it will come lose later. so just use one big washer for each bolt. and lots of 5200. Use nylok bolts where ever you can. EDIT plywood first then plate then washer. 5200 between all. White the black stuff is from hull and will get on everything.

Bonus stuff
as far as a prop I would start with a 13 inch pitch. and have the engine as low on the transom as possible. make sure you dont have anything mounted on the transom in the water in front of the prop. Transducer type stuff.

[aya16]

Hmmin Thats why I always look in the last place first but its always in the first place I should have looked.
But then if my nephew borrowed it and didnt tell me its not in the first or last place. But because he does this often then I guess that should be the last place I look first.
But most of the time I just buy a new one. That way it always shows up
on its own and I have two.

[beene]

Thanks again Mike

Very much appreciated.

G

[aya16]

I have a feeling the wire diag. will be in the box with the harness.
I know that the tach (if from merc) will have instructions of what wire
to use. And if you get the wire harness with seperate key switch it might already be wired in. But untill you get all the stuff rounded up I wouldnt sweat it. Its still pretty easy to do.

[beene]

OK

Ended up buying the keyswitch, warning horn, push to choke, 6ft wiring harness with the 8 pin male conector on the other end. Just plugged it in, turned the key, and the water in the bucket a had the motor sitting in went all over the place. No prop installed. Just as a result of the exhaust under water. Guess I wont need a prop, so much thrust just from the exhaust!

You asked if I thought it would fit under the seat..... MV is in storage so I can't be sure, but me thinks NFW.


Cheers

G

[aya16]

Thats a nice and a brute, she sure is pretty. You dont need the push to choke. fuel injection? But when you turn the key on and the warning horn
comes on wait till it stops before you start. This gives the injectors time to charge.

I think you will be very happy with the performance and it should turn some heads too. Keep us informed on the progress will ya?

good thing you didnt have the prop on it may have moved the garage a few feet....

[Lease]

Hey Mike, I wonder if you could turn your mind to a problem that I have been having:

I've got a Tohatsu M50D that was fitted new to the boat in 1995.

When I got it, I had a (brief) engine survey done. The opinion from the mech was that the engine was basically quite sound , with cylinder compressions still at, or near the factory new values. There was also a comment that a servie was required, and that the carbs should be overhauled.

We used the boat a few times and I noted that it ran fairly unevenly and would pick up a bit, and then drop back a bit. The sort of stuff that makes you instantly think 'fuel supply'. I never got it to go over 4,800 RPM and the last 1/4 of throttle movement resulted in a definite increase in rough running and decrease in RPM.

The Tohatsu people wanted to rebuild the whole fuel and oil system (including piping), which was going to cost a fortune, so I have done a few things myself:

These are:

- Overhauled carburethors using the Tohatsu carb kit. Kit includes all gaskets as well as new needles and floats. All jets were removed and cleaned.

- Re-synched the carbs using the process from the Tohatsu manual

- Re-set the oil synchronisation using the manual

-Re-set the timing using the manual

Took it out two weekends ago and it is running much more smoothly, but still has the same basic problem. It is now delivering smooth, consistent power at 4,800RPM, but if the throttle is moved beyond the 3/4 position, the RPM drops off, and starts running with a miss.

This weekend I went back to basics and;

-Ensured that full throttle at the console equals butterflies completely open

- Removed engine fuel filter. Very small amount of debris in the bowl, none in the mesh

- Removed engine oil filter. Nothing there.

- Replaced the inline fuel filter after the bulb

Looked again at the throttle and linkages to make sure that everything was hitting its stops and if anything, the only thing not perfect appears to be that - by eye - the top carby butterfly might be a whisker not fully open.

At the end of the day, 3/4 throttle and 4,800 is a good cruise setting and probably where I'll spend most of the motoring that I will do. I'd still like to find out why I can't get to that last 800RPM though.

Any thoughts?

[aya16]

M50D: Ill give it a try. couple things could be in play here. The fuel pump
could need to be rebuilt, do that yourself for around 30 bucks, the timing could be off and the prop could be to big spark plugs old and leaky fiel lines.

My first guess would be the fuel pump 1995 makes the engine 11 years old and the fuel pump rubber membrain (I think thats how you spell it)
could be worn or damaged from time and the crappy new fuels these engines had to injest over the last few years. on the high performance two strokes of old they want to run on the highest octain gas you can find
at the gas stations. (YOU DONT NEED RACEING FUEL)

The timing could be a bit off too, you can check that with a car timing light.
If I had older engine like yours I would have a shop manual. You would be
much better off. And it sounds like you have one


the plugs will foul easy and all it takes is one that isnt up to snuff to cause
the problem you have.

Two strokes love to sceam at high rpm. Ask the person that you bought the boat from what they got as far as top rpm. If the prop has always
been on the engine it may have never reached max rpm. check the pitch it shouldnt be more than 13.

I would: change the plugs check the timing, rebuild the fuel pump. buy new fuel lines from the tank to the engine. Check to see if the internal engine fuel lines are ok, Make sure the vent on the gas tank is all the way open.
then try a diff prop.

let me know what you find, I would like to know what the spark plugs look like when you pull them. while your at it I would change the water pump and the lower unit oil just for grins.
Mike

edit: rereading I see the timing was checked. adjust the carb that looks like the choke isnt open all the way, make sure it does.
but I still think the plugs and fuel pump could be the problem.

[Lease]

Thanks for the input.

Didn't mention it, but the plugs are new. I'll pull them again and have a look.

I had a look at the fuel pump when I pulled the carbs apart, it looked in very good condition.

The lower unit oil was checked and is in good condition as well.

I will try using the new 98 and see how that goes. The last couple of times that I've filled the tanks, I did it from the fuel wharf and they only have 92.

I guess that I should also replace the lines.

The only thing that I can't do is ask the previous owner about their experience. The boat last lived in California and now lives in Melbourne (no, not Florida, the one 6,000 miles away), and there were agents in between.

Will let you know how I get on.

[Frank C]

... Took it out two weekends ago and it is running much more smoothly, but still has the same basic problem. It is now delivering smooth, consistent power at 4,800RPM, but if the throttle is moved beyond the 3/4 position, the RPM drops off, and starts running with a miss. ...

You mentioned replacing the lines - assume that means fuel lines. I have an even easier suggestion. Your problem could be simply that the engine is sucking air at higher rpms. Try removing the QR fitting at the fuel tank. Then dunk the bare end of fuel hose into the fuel supply. In less than 5 mins you can determine if there's an air leak at the fuel tank - and it sure sounds like there could be.

[Lease]

Now that sounds interesting.

They certainly don't have that positive 'click' anymore.

Think I'll replace them on suspicion.

[James V]

It could alsoe be that the inside of the fuel lines are colapising inside. you cannot see from the outside. The older lines will get that way. You may want to replace if more than 2 or 3 years old and have been in the sun much.

From what I have been told the higher price lines last longer.

[aya16]

Lease: did you find anything new ? did it help with the problem?
what size prop are you running?

[aya16]

Beene: any progress? If it doesnt fit under the seat when tilted will you be able to shave some seat off to make it work? The only part that wont fit is when tilting up. Tilted down shouldnt be a problem and with the seat up and motor tilted all the way up the seat might still close.
Let me know.