MacGregorSailors.com

Greetings all.

I'm the proud new owner of a 1987 26C. I'm traveling to pick it up at the end of this month. I will be moving it from Arkansas to Michigan.
I plan on installing new trailer axle bearings and seals before getting under way (along with new tires).

I ordered the bearings and seals from BWY and will be installing them at the sellers location.

My question is this: Can anyone tell me what size hex the castle nut on the axle is?
I want to be sure to use a torque wrench to apply the preload to the bearings and I don't want to have to take every socket I own on this trip.

Also, I have read elsewhere that 10 ft/lbs of torque is about right for preloading those bearings. Any input on these items would be greatly appretiated!

Thanks

Chris

I did the same to my prior trailer, and previous boat, a 92 Mac Classic. I tightened the hex nut firm, but not too tight against the bearings. The wheel shouldnt wobble. The wheel should spin easily with no grinding sound.

Suggestions: torque the lug nuts, carry a spare, check the wheels periodically, and caarry a small bottle jack with a 2" X 6" X 12" base board for your mac trailer in an emergency flat tire.

Congrats on your 87 Classic

Chris - you dont need a socket for that castellated nut at all. A large crescent of even water pump pliers (slip joint) will do. It doesnt need to be, and shouldnt be, tight at all. Its role is to remove the endplay in the wheel bearing just to the point where the bearings are held on their races, but not squeezed to the point where there is a lot of pressure - if you overtighten then the bearing race fails early.

Jack the trailer up (one wheel) and the grab the tire on sides and push/pull it trying to pull it off the axle. Remove cotter pin, loosen the nut until the slop is noticeable. You slowly tighten it while pulling the wheel back and forth on the axle, feeling the slop in the bearing disappear as the nut pushes the bearing together. When the slop disappears and you cant feel anymore back and forth (along the axis of the axle) you have it right. You can turn it a bit more to align the holes of the mandatory cotter pin.

Charge yourself 1.5 hours * 90 dollars an hour for a 'wheel bearing adjustment'