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I am trying to solve a problem today on my M. I bought my boat used and the previous owner has only one line running through the hasp to a block to a rope clutch aft. There is no safety (preventer) line and no knots or washers.

What is the normal setup? On the stock setup what stops first, the washer on the main line, or the preventer line? Does the preventer line simply go up through the hole in the hasp with a knot to secure it there? Does the loose preventer line just sit in the well with the board, doesn't it foul??

On my 26M, there is a washer and stopper knot in the main line. The washer is meant to ensure that the knot in the main line stops the board lowering too far. The washer is mobile and can end up anywhere along the main line. Mine occasionally gets tangled in the deck block.

The preventer line is just that. A sort of a backup to catch the board if the main line either fails or has been knotted in the wrong place. On my M it goes through the hasp with a knot above.

Yes the preventer does just sit in the well with the board and no it doesn't foul (hasn't so far anyway). There is nothing for it to foul on inside the well and seems to be plenty of room between the top of the board and the well liner so it doesn't jam. If it is loose on deck above the hasp when the board is raised I guess it could foul in deck gear such as the base of the vang.

The washer is more of a liability in my opinion and not needed. The preventer line should be 57 inches (probably more like 55-56 to allow for stretch.) Secure it with a figure 8 knot inside the back hole in the top of the board. Secure the other end in the other hole of the roller plate. Use a bit of a longer run at first, then drop the board down and run a measuring tape down the DB shaft to the top of the board. Should measure 57" from the top of the board to the deck. Mark your line and tie the stop knot there. The preventer line is designed to hold the board in place at the appropriate position. When dropping the board, let it go all the way down so the preventer line is under load, then take up slack on the hauling line, but not so much as to raise the board any.

Hope this helps.
Leon

Great easy to understand detail guys thanks a bunch!

I saw some plastic balls with a hole in them and a recess for the knot at W-marine. They take the place of the washer on the stock setup, you still make a knot and the ball hits the pulley. Anyone use those?

Why do away with the stopper on the main Dagger board line, what is the liability?

You do not do away with a stopper, but the stopper can be as simple as a figure 8 knot. Or you can use those plastic balls. The idea of simplicity is that when you decide to rerun the line for any of a number of reasons, you just untie the knot and it slips through. But if you never undo the knot for any number of reasons, the balls give a finished look. So I guess if you want balls ....or

Here's are photos I took of the stock set up I have. Please forgive the sloppiness of the boat. It is still in dry dock in my driveway. It will be a few weeks before I get her cleaned up. I have bee saying a few weeks now for at least four weeks.



The washer is located somewhere between the two shots.


I don't know what the liability is with the washer? It has never interfered with the operation of the daggerboard.

Ray

My washer is also a liability.

I think its meant to ensure that the figure of 8 knot cant squeeze through the block by presenting a more rigid surface, but when it slides down the line so it is not backed up against the the knot, it can occasionally turn sideways into the deck block and jam.

I'm planning on adding some whipping to keep the washer with the knot.

A figure 8 knot won't squeeze through the block. Washer not needed. My dealer actually never installed the washer for the reasons mentioned. I don't even have a knot in my hauling line. The board stops at the setting of the secondary line.

Leon

It sounds like the stock setup has the daggerboard line acting as the main stopper and the preventer line as backup only. It also sounds like diffeerent folks are using the lines differently with sucess. I guess you can use either line as the load carrying line when the board is fully down and it doesn't seem to matter.

My daggerboard line looks very worn, does anyone know the diameter of the daggerboard line?

Second line? I don't have a second line, at least I don't think I have a second line... Does it attach to the same place on the daggerboard? And where does it attach to the boat?

Sorry about all the questions but I can picture the daggerboard dropping out of the boat and gone forever.

Don't know the exact dim. of the line but you should have a line to pull it up/let it down that runs through a pulley in what looks like a cheap gate hasp (see page 16 of manual at left) and runs then all the way back to the cockpit. and another line from the same area that is not shown terminates at that hasp. They both connect to the dagger board. One does the uppie downie and the other limits the extent of travel and is a safety so it doesn't fall out the bottom.
I would say the lines are 5/16 but I am not home to check - maybe someone else knows for sure.

Seems to me my line is at least 7/16 or 1/2

I made a mistake and thought the lines were 3/8 but I was not able to get a figure 8 stopper knot to fit through the hole in the daggerboard. I got a 5/16 line and everything fit great.

Acording to Mac specification 8 mm is the std rope size for all lines for hallards and sheets and dagger board line.

bubba wrote:Acording to Mac specification 8 mm is the std rope size for all lines for hallards and sheets and dagger board line.

8 millimeters = 0.31496063 inches closest fraction is 5/16