MacGregorSailors.com

hi everyone.
here is my dream boat venture 17. i have been looking for a small sail boat. my search was narrowed down to catalina 22, venture 22 and venture 17. operational cost was my main concern so i had no choise but keep the boat on my back yard and when isee a catalina 22 on the trailer it was way too big for me. i needed something light and small so i bought this one( on ebay). it didn't see the water yet but we are gaining confidence slowly and hopefully one day we will be ready to take it to water. ( i have couple friends who shares the same dream). until now i did install the hitch for my isuzu amigo 4x4, do the wiring etc. also i put new stop,turn, brake light thing on trailer. future plan involves paint job to the trailer as well. now i am working on the rigging. replacing worn lines, sheets. i have couple books that helps a lot but i figured here you guys can also share your experiences with me which would be highly valuable to rookies like us. it is going to be a long and slow process but i enjoy involving with things like that. lets start


what are these two vertical loops on the back of the boat. how do we use them?

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also this little grooves on the side of the boat?

are this little cracks something to worry about? any fix?
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here is the lenght of the shaft from the bottom of the propeller to up. it is 5 hp eska. is that long enough?

LD, I thought you already owned a 17?

http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... ght=#93986

Also, I'm confused with some of your other postings - what's up?

http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... ht=#121934
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... ht=#121933
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... ht=#121932
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... ht=#121931

hi littleD. 1st pic... they are rudder pintles, used to support an external rudder which will have two similar fittings on it...match them up and drop in a vertical pin...even an ordinary bolt from hardware will do the job...as long as it has a head on it and cannot drop through...On my 20 Vivacity bilge keeler I have the same setup. I'll try and add a photo.
2nd pic...It looks like a base fitting for the starboard side shroud [ side mast support wire.] Usually they are more robust than that...Usually a vertical strap solidly bol;ted to the hull, and not just held with two screws.
I'm open to criticism on this one, or it could be the base plate for the mast lowering system.
3rd. pic. Easily fixed with fibreglass . deepen the cracks somewhat and fill with resin/ hardener mixed to a paste with talcum powder. Let it set hard. then smooth off, then go over it again [ paint on some resin/ hardener and lay a strip of woven fibeglass matting over the cxracks while the resin is wet. [ you can buy it in 2 inch wide strips] and straight away top off with more resin/ hardener...Always mix your resin in small lots...it goes off [ hard] quick in hot weather...use cheap paint brushed...when it is set hard, sand smooth and paint.
4th pic. When the outboard motor is bolted on the support bracket [ showing in the pic] and the boat is afloat, there must be enough water covering the leg to keep the water inlet holes or slots ALWAYS under water. A good test is to run the motor and stand right on the bow of the boat. If the prop comes out of the water and the revs go up, then the leg is too short and you will have two options...1. lower the bracket on the transom or buy a motor with a long leg...I had to get another long leg motor and could only get a two stroke...the short leg motor I had
was a nice four stroke mariner. much quieter. hope this all helps.

puggsy 06

Just a bit of extra info on BEVVY TOO...All timber frame/ ply...English design bilge keeler, built around 1970...very stiff sailing...cast iron keels...weighs more than a ...about 2 ton....used to be on a single axle trailer and I had the new one stretched to a tandem....and this little ship has been all the way out to the abrolhos islands...70 mile off Geraldton
Previous owner had her for eight years, myself for 6 years...
but no onboard toilet for mixed company...she had to go...and she is for sale...open to offers...



puggsy 06

2 nd May be an old ladder mount or a mount for a fender

kmclemore wrote:LD, I thought you already owned a 17?

http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... ght=#93986

Also, I'm confused with some of your other postings - what's up?

http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... ht=#121934
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... ht=#121933
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... ht=#121932
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... ht=#121931

hi sir. this is the same boat that i bought last summer. i have very little free time so i couldn't do much since. tow car is arranged and hitch installed etc as i stated in my previous message. boat spend the winter on backyard under the tarp. it is spring and its my priority to get that boat ready for wind. today i was outside doing some stuff i'll post some picture later. i also figured those tho holes were for rudder which made feel prety stupid. ooh well i am learning.
i am sorry for the message mess. i uploaded my pics write my message and clicked the button but site didn't allow me to post pics because i didn't have 10 post. after couple more post i was able to post pic.

Under the "little grooves" in pic #2, is that a missing rub rail slot I'm not famaliar with this boat.

Rick

On PIC 2 the aluminum piece is the holder for a black rubber rub rail that surrounds the boat . The little clip looks like a ladder mount or mount for a fender hanger

Bawgy wrote:On PIC 2 the aluminum piece is the holder for a black rubber rub rail that surrounds the boat . The little clip looks like a ladder mount or mount for a fender hanger

i am not sure if i understand this correctly. so that alumunium rail that surrounds the boat supposed to have a rubber inserts goes around the boat?

puggsy wrote:hi littleD. 1st pic... they are rudder pintles, used to support an external rudder which will have two similar fittings on it...match them up and drop in a vertical pin...even an ordinary bolt from hardware will do the job...as long as it has a head on it and cannot drop through...On my 20 Vivacity bilge keeler I have the same setup. I'll try and add a photo.
2nd pic...It looks like a base fitting for the starboard side shroud [ side mast support wire.] Usually they are more robust than that...Usually a vertical strap solidly bol;ted to the hull, and not just held with two screws.
I'm open to criticism on this one, or it could be the base plate for the mast lowering system.
3rd. pic. Easily fixed with fibreglass . deepen the cracks somewhat and fill with resin/ hardener mixed to a paste with talcum powder. Let it set hard. then smooth off, then go over it again [ paint on some resin/ hardener and lay a strip of woven fibeglass matting over the cxracks while the resin is wet. [ you can buy it in 2 inch wide strips] and straight away top off with more resin/ hardener...Always mix your resin in small lots...it goes off [ hard] quick in hot weather...use cheap paint brushed...when it is set hard, sand smooth and paint.
4th pic. When the outboard motor is bolted on the support bracket [ showing in the pic] and the boat is afloat, there must be enough water covering the leg to keep the water inlet holes or slots ALWAYS under water. A good test is to run the motor and stand right on the bow of the boat. If the prop comes out of the water and the revs go up, then the leg is too short and you will have two options...1. lower the bracket on the transom or buy a motor with a long leg...I had to get another long leg motor and could only get a two stroke...the short leg motor I had
was a nice four stroke mariner. much quieter. hope this all helps.

puggsy 06

thank you. i'll try that method to figure if shaft lenght is enough. boat has bases for side shrouds in different area so this clips on the side more likely to be for fenders i guess.

i felt like something needs to be done here


it looked ugly but much more solid. later i may come up with better solution.(less ugly)

[/img]

this guy was bent badly


after couple whack its better. not perfect but better.
[/img]
ok. here is some questions
how is the rigging for boom. i have tried to run the line through the pulley at the and of the boom and through the cam. kind of figure eight at the other and. doed it seem correct?

question 2 : how much slack is normal for halyards?. as you can see in the pictures i left lots of slack(it helped me raise the mast) but i was wondering if there is any norms for slack that i should leave.


is jib sheet goes inside of the side shroud or outside? than goes through this hole and ends up at the first cleat?

there is that hole on the mast i don't know the purpose. i am thinking a cleat on both side would be helpfull for the halyard coils. what do you think?
[/img]
looking not bad so far


question 3 : rudder.
there is no resistance etc for the rudder to keeping it kicking back. lover part of the rudder moves from vertical position to horizontal position without much effort. is that the way it supposed to be? i am thinking. it can kick back in case it hits something so it is safer this way. but how do we steer if its not solid.? some info needed about this

horizontal position
[/img]

here is the pic of boom
[img][img]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p148 ... /o2038.jpg[/img]
can anyone tell me if rigging is correct? thanks[/img]

That rigging doesnt look right. The main sheet (attaches to near rear of boom) should be attached on the centerline of the boat unless you want to only sail in circles (in one direction)

I suspect you are missing some blocks and block with becket which would let you have a 3:1 mechanical advantage on the main sheet...something like three loops of line running between the attach point and the boom.

Yep, the mainsheet is definitely not right but I'm having trouble finding a diagram. I think that's how my V222 was originally rigged as well but a PO modified it.

I'm going from memory here and I may have some details wrong but maybe this will help get you started.

I think there should be a block over on the port side where you've got the sheet tied off. And there should be a double block on the end of your boom. Basically the line runs through that swivel cleat thing on the starboard corner up to the boom, through a block down on the aft port corner, back up to the boom (remember double block) and back down to the swivel thingy to get cleated off.

On EDIT: I may be wrong. If you look at the brochere it seems to show a setup different than what I'm describing:

http://www.ne-ts.com/mac/kk/kk-203v17bro.html

Unfortunately there's not enough detail in the pics to really see what's going on.

As a side note, you do have the MacGregor "Owner's Instructions" right? It doesn't give any help on the mainsheet but does come in handy sometimes.

On the rudder: Are there any holes for tying lines to? I don't have an original rudder on my 222 anymore but there should be places to tie lines to keep the rudder either up or down. My Com-Pac's rudder looks similar to yours. It has a line for pulling the rudder into the up position but there is a screw with a lever on it (best description I can think of) that tightens up to keep the rudder from kicking up when I don't want it to.

You can tighten the pivot bolt on the rudder enough to resist movement when sailing but it will still kick up if you strike something.

The mainsheet should have bowline in the end around the eyelet not a Figure 8.

Jib sheet goes inside the shrouds to cinch cleats on cabin top