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I'm fishing for ideas and suggestions. We have the Wallas stove on our boat and love it. It does have one annoying problem. The exhaust tube connects between the stove and a thru hull fitting, which is located just below galley countertop height. The insulated, flexible metal exhaust tube is bent into a "P" trap configuration to keep water from coming all the way into the stove. However, when heeled more than 20 degrees on the port side, or when getting slapped with chop on the port side, this tube takes on enough water to prevent the stove from operating. With water in the bottom of the trap, the stove can't vent its exhaust, and it fails to light until I disconnect the tube and drain out the water.

I've considered inserting an external plug prior to sailing, however the thru hull fitting is too low to reach from on deck, and climbing into the dinghy to plug the opening doesn't seem like the optimal solution. I'd like to install a valve just behind the thru hull hull which I could open and close as needed, by reaching under the galley. It would need to be stainless to stand up to both heat and corrosion. Tube diameter is approximately 1 1/4 inch.

Has anyone with a Wallas Stove dealt with this problem? Anyone have any ideas on where to look for a suitable valve which could be clamped onto both the thru hull and the flex tubing?

In the latest issue of Cruising World (I think) there was a boat that vented through the binnacle and another that vented the engine room through the mast, I mention that because of where you say yours vents. OK that makes no sense....Your vent is obviously close to the water line and not the center line of the boat. Rather than add to a bad design, why not relocate the exhaust, I am sure someone here could offer a similarly creative suggestion. Where and how is the Wallas mounted?

Stove is mounted in center of galley counter, standard location for stoves on the 26X. Fairly direct exit for exhaust tube is needed because the tube is hot when stove is in use. Reason the tube doesn't exit higher than present location is that the tube would have to extend above the counter top, just below the window.

We have a common problem. I have the same dilemma on my Odin and just have not worked out a solution. I simply place a plug in the thru hull from the outside when I am sailing or when I know that I'll be motoring in chop. This requires planning ahead and docking on the port side to access the thru-hull. When this docking is not accessible, it requires a dinghy. Another Wallas owner ran a LONG exhaust to the stern ( not my idea of a best case scenario). Your idea of a SS valve makes sense, though I am not sure it would pass muster for exhaust? I can't imagine why not if it is impervious to water. We'll have to work on this and share ideas.

Well, I don't know the configuration here, but why not just add a sliding waste-gate valve to your vent on the inside, just like the valve used for the ballast? You could run the control rod out to somewhere you could easily reach it, perhaps?

I too have the Wallas 800 stove and experienced the same problem of water entering the exhaust tube. Todd from Blue Water Yachts, reached under my galley counter, and stuffed that exhaust tube up higher wedging it up above the aluminum stove frame. That solved the problem and I have not an issue since. I guess what I'm saying is that it is a simple fix, that does not require a valve or a plug.

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Rich Plumb, "Plumb Crazy"
2000 26X, Covington WA

Kevin and Rich,
I don't think there is room enough to install a gate valve (really tight quarters on my boat). The suggestion to raise the exhaust port is an interesting one and one that I will investigate further; maybe calling the Wallas distributor in Washington would make some sense at this point?
Thanks for your input guys.

Why not install the thruhull lower, so that the is a constant downslope from the stove to the exit?
That way, there will be no need for a P-loop, as there will always be a download slope?

Interesting thoughts. I've got the "P" elbow of my vent pipe raised fairly high, but could secure it a couple inches higher. That could help, but I suspect it wouldn't completely eliminate the problem. The idea of lowering the thru hull so it self drains has some logic to it, but I'm not about to put a new hole through the hull close to the waterline. While heeled it would be below waterline, and if the tube ever slipped off, major problems would result. The current location is actually below the level of the stove, but the "P" elbow helps prevent water from sloshing up into the stove.

What would happen if you added a SS gas shutoff valve at the bottom of the P and connected it to the sink drain? Then you could open it before using the stove for a few moments to let any accumulated water drain out.

As a side note: I've had this stove for about nine years now and during that time, I've had to repair it when the fuel pump fails or the burner wick carbon's up, which can easily happen. I've created a MS Word document, including pictures, describing how to disassemble and repair the stove. If you would like a copy of this document, send me an email.

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Rich Plumb, "Plumb Crazy"
2000 26X, Covington WA

I don't own a Wallas, but I see that Wallas offers some exhaust components that may address your situation. There are exhaust only & combination hull vents that are shielded. Also, a "closeable" deck vent, if you were to consider rerouting upwards. Additionally, there is an elbow fitted with a drain tube.

Rich Plumb wrote:As a side note: I've had this stove for about nine years now and during that time, I've had to repair it when the fuel pump fails or the burner wick carbon's up, which can easily happen. I've created a MS Word document, including pictures, describing how to disassemble and repair the stove. If you would like a copy of this document, send me an email.

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Rich Plumb, "Plumb Crazy"
2000 26X, Covington WA

Rich, please share your document here on the website. Click on "Features" -> "Articles" and then use the email-to-Heath function there to send it up to him. He will then post it for all of us to use, whenever!

Thanks K9Kamper. I checked in on the ScanMarine website (our local Wallas Stove dealer in Seattle). They had photos of the items you mentioned. I think the elbow with drain tube comes pretty close to doing the job for me. I'd like the closeable vent cap, but still couldn't reach it unless I rerouted the tube higher. I'll be calling ScanMarine to get more info. If I end up installing a mod, I'll post it.

I called Scan Maine, talked to Doug. He advised against the use of the drain copper tubing that comes off the bottom of the loop. The primary purpose of that is to drain condensation buildup. He states that if the placement of the thru hull is such that water comes up past the loop, to the height of the stove, the only alternative is to re-position the exhaust tube and thru hull so that either the hull fitting is high enough to prevent a boarding wave, or that it is high enough to reach and plug from the outside. He affirmed that these stoves are especially unhappy in the presence of salt water. I would recommend a call to him before any changes are made. 1-888-606-6665
Jeff.