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Install a new polyethlene tank below deck, and enclosed it (to specs), and then installed a fuel/water separator in between the tank, and BF50A. Have a perko filler with vent for receiving the fuel. Checked all fittings for leaks. When I try to prime the motor with the bulb,..all I get is a colaspsed bulb that slowly expands again but does not feel taunt,.. so I'm assuming it's not priming the carbs? I have yet to start the engine because of this problem.
Should I be putting fuel in the fuel/water separator to help it along for priming or? Your help is appreciated.

That is significantly more lift from the lower tank location.

disconnect the hose fitting at the engine end. lower the buld as low as possible below the engine. Get a storage container to recieve the gas, squeeze the bulb drawing fuel from the tank directly into an open discharge hose.. After priming the bulb, reconnect the hose engine side fuel fitting.

Confirm that your primer bulb is installed with the arrow pointing toward the engine. Confirm that your hose is routed correctly on the IN / OUT fittings of the fuel filter. Check for a clog in the vent line and / or the pickup line in the tank.

Take the filter out of the loop and see how you do. I suspect that's your problem. It's not the vent, since you'd at least have enough air in the tank to prevent collapsing the bulb and to get the thing started.

As for the pull up distance, mine pulls just fine from the below-decks tank.

Trucks with real fuel filters always fill the filters with fuel to reduce air in the lines and I think the same would be appropriate here.

Divecoz wrote:Trucks with real fuel filters always fill the filters with fuel to reduce air in the lines and I think the same would be appropriate here.

That's absolutely right. However, I'm doubtful that an empty fuel filter would induce a solid vapor lock of the type described... I think the filter or the lines may be blocked.

Make sure the filter/separator is plumbed properly. They are directional to prevent siphoning.

~Rich

Some fuel / water seperator filters are marked carb, or fuel inj eng. only do you have the right one for your eng
a filter marked for a carb eng. maybe colapse under the high fuel pressure of an fuel inj. system
J

waternwaves wrote:That is significantly more lift from the lower tank location.

disconnect the hose fitting at the engine end. lower the buld as low as possible below the engine. Get a storage container to recieve the gas, squeeze the bulb drawing fuel from the tank directly into an open discharge hose.. After priming the bulb, reconnect the hose engine side fuel fitting.

Tried that but didn't work so I tried removing the fuel/water filter (Sierra 10 micron which was recommended for removing 95% of water from E10) and filling it with gas. Re installed it, and started the engine to no avail. The squeeze bulb went flat, and not priming. Checked my connections at the fuel/water separator where you have 2 opposing arrows (><inner) and 2 arrows pointing away from each other(<> outer), and according to the dealer,...you connect the tank side to the >inner and then the outboard side to matching side > that's kitty corner. Plugs are in opposite non used inner and outer. Check the connection at the Moeller 27 Gal tank below deck, and no problem there as well. The motor was working fine before I introduced the fuel/water separator which was recommended for this motor so I'm still trying to solve this problem. All of your comments are appreciated, and any other suggestions would be as well

kmclemore wrote:Take the filter out of the loop and see how you do. I suspect that's your problem. It's not the vent, since you'd at least have enough air in the tank to prevent collapsing the bulb and to get the thing started.

As for the pull up distance, mine pulls just fine from the below-decks tank.

Took the filter out of the loop and just left the bracket on without filter but nothing happened without the filter. The below deck Moeller tank is about 1/4 full,..connection at the tank is OK. The only thing I can think of would be to purchase a new line and bulb (had to cut the other one to connect to the Sierra filter), and try it without the filter in between? Any suggestions are appreciated


The Perko fuel and vent fill is like the one here at

http://www.cgedwards.com/Perko/pko305-17.html

Figure 1318 & 1319 Vented Fill

The Sierra Water separator is like the one here

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=85448F

If you enlarge the picture there you will see the direction of the arrows IN and OUT.

SquidMan wrote:Took the filter out of the loop and just left the bracket on without filter but nothing happened without the filter. The below deck Moeller tank is about 1/4 full,..connection at the tank is OK.

OK, so if I am reading you correctly, you have the hose from the engine to the bulb, then from the bulb to the tank (directly). Correct?

kmclemore wrote:

SquidMan wrote:Took the filter out of the loop and just left the bracket on without filter but nothing happened without the filter. The below deck Moeller tank is about 1/4 full,..connection at the tank is OK.

OK, so if I am reading you correctly, you have the hose from the engine to the bulb, then from the bulb to the tank (directly). Correct?

To simplify what Kevin is asking, did you just remove the filter, or did you bypass the entire filter assembly?

Another way to do what Kev is asking, is to start (or try to) the engine with a different tank / fuel line / bulb. This will allow you to eliminate just one thing or several things as the problem.

When I installed a fuel filter / water seperator on my , I ended up replacing, after one season, the entire fuel line & bulb (a new pre-made assembly) with a new better fuel line & bulb that I assembled myself. I still keep the original fuel line / bulb assembly onboard to use if needed (bypassing the filter / seperator).

kmclemore wrote:

SquidMan wrote:Took the filter out of the loop and just left the bracket on without filter but nothing happened without the filter. The below deck Moeller tank is about 1/4 full,..connection at the tank is OK.

OK, so if I am reading you correctly, you have the hose from the engine to the bulb, then from the bulb to the tank (directly). Correct?

Engine to bulb, bulb to Fuel/Water Separator, then hose from Separator (other side) to below deck tank. Hope that helps?

K9Kampers wrote:

kmclemore wrote:

SquidMan wrote:Took the filter out of the loop and just left the bracket on without filter but nothing happened without the filter. The below deck Moeller tank is about 1/4 full,..connection at the tank is OK.

OK, so if I am reading you correctly, you have the hose from the engine to the bulb, then from the bulb to the tank (directly). Correct?

To simplify what Kevin is asking, did you just remove the filter, or did you bypass the entire filter assembly?

Another way to do what Kev is asking, is to start (or try to) the engine with a different tank / fuel line / bulb. This will allow you to eliminate just one thing or several things as the problem.

When I installed a fuel filter / water seperator on my , I ended up replacing, after one season, the entire fuel line & bulb (a new pre-made assembly) with a new better fuel line & bulb that I assembled myself. I still keep the original fuel line / bulb assembly onboard to use if needed (bypassing the filter / seperator).

Didn't bypass the filter assembly as I was told that I just needed to prime the filter (remove,..then fill it with gas) which I did , and still have the same problem. Will pick up new assembly (Hose and Bulb) tomrrow and try that Without the filter.

Squidman-



This photo is my current setup without the filter installed. I'm using this picture to make two points.
1). The hose on the left is from the fuel tank, the hose on the right is to the motor. For my application, I plumbed my lines on the same side & plugged the holes on the opposite side of the filter head. This is the same as your "kitty corner" setup, if you have the IN & OUT holes plumbed correctly.

2). When it was suggested to "take the filter out of the loop", the intent was to configure the fuel line directly from the fuel tank to the primer bulb, thus bypassing the filter assy. Just removing the filter without reconfiguring the lines so it looks like the picture WILL NOT run the motor because the fuel path is interrupted with an air space.

The value of bypassing the filter (taking the filter out of the loop) is to restore the original configuration to when the motor ran (before adding the filter). If the motor starts & runs, then the problem is in the filter assy. If the motor doesn't run, then the problem could be any one or several things between & including the tank & motor.

The purpose of this excercise is two-fold. First is to get your motor started & running so that you can enjoy it with confidence. Second is to be able to understand how each component of a system operates and affects the system as a whole. Understanding how things work and how to diagnose a problem will help you most when you are on the water and your resources are limited.