MacGregorSailors.com

Hi all I,m new to this site but like it and all the info is great Thanks .
I,m getting a 26m, 05 and am looking at 50-70 size engines. any info would be of a big help. I like the 50 but am thinking that I could run a 70 at less throttle at the same speed and maybe have longer eng. life.
Thanks for any help. Bob

Go with the 70, you won't regret it. Why pay the weight penalty of the Suzuki 60 when you can get the 70 for the same weight. Likewise if you are looking at Mercury get the 60 which weighs the same as the 50. I've not yet met a owner of a bigger motor that wishes they had a smaller one, but I know of many who wish they had gone bigger.

If you can't afford the bigger motor make sure whatever you pick can swing a 14" prop.

Definately, go with the 70.

I purchased a Mac with a Force outboard on it. This is equivalent to purchasing a Mac with no motor. I bought a 115 Suzuki with a 6 year warranty and don't regret having put it on my Mac. I based this decision after much feedback from this board and personal correspondence from other owners. None of the owners with larger motors on their Mac regretted their decision.

I cracked my transom with the 115 from improper transom reinforcement. Fortunately, I had insurance and got it reinforced properly but I still had to pay a duductible. They also charged a couple of hundred more than the deductible because they felt the reinforcement was an improvement.

If you purchase a motor much larger than what the boat was built for, you will have to consider getting the transom reinforced. MacGregor built everything to minimual tolerances including the transom. I learned this the hard way. It is not only a matter of weight. The thrust of a larger motor puts additional stress on the transom. Of course, I talking from a 26X perspective. The 26M might have a stronger transom. It doesn't seem uncommon to have a 70hp on a 26M.

I had specially built fiberglass knees professionally installed on the inside of my transom in addition to a reinforcing plate in the transom. I think you should at least get reinforcing plates inside and out as shown in these pictures:

Click here for pictures

The Suzuki 4 Stroke is an excellent engine. I wanted a 4 stroke. I was advised that the additional weight had little or no detrimental effect on the boat's sailing ability. My boat sails just fine.

This board has also given good testimonials on some fuel efficient, low emmision, low weight 2 strokes.

There had been many testimonals for the Nissan/Tohatsu TLDI Two-Stroke (Low Pressure, Direct Injection).

There has also been a testimonal for the Evinrude E-tec outboard.

MacGregor will warranty the M hull with a 70hp motor as long as it is installed by one of their dealers. If you use a third party for the motor they will only warranty the hull for a 50hp. They only ever warranteed the X for a 50hp no matter who mounted the motor.

Bob26M wrote: ... I,m getting a 26m, 05 and am looking at 50-70 size engines. any info would be of a big help. I like the 50 but am thinking that I could run a 70 at less throttle at the same speed and maybe have longer eng. life ...

A little bit of voodoo and horse-puckey sometimes clouds this debate. Your focus is rather unique, and it calls to the foreground some of the issues I considered when choosing my Suzuki DF60. The easiest choice is to simply go with the largest motor within a particular series, but it may not be logical for your objectives. For example, one may choose a Suzuki 70 over its little brother the 60, spending extra for that choice. In fact, those two motors are physically identical, and their performance up to 5,000 rpms is identical also.

If you plan to operate only within the lower 80% power range (sounds like you are focused on long engine life), then there's absolutely no reason to buy the last 500 rpms of performance wherein the identical outboard produces its last 10 horsepower (from 60, up to 70hp). Suzuki programs the computer to clip the top rpms and hold the 60hp version in the lower rpm band. This was very clear on Suzuki's website when I bought my DF60 back in 1999. The power/torque curves for both motors were identical except for the dotted lines indicating max rpm range. (I think Mark did similarly in choosing the DF115 instead of the DF140, weights about the same).

So, the smaller motor of a sibling group could be the better choice (more cost effective) if your emphasis is mid-range performance. Unless you're expecting to run at WOT frequently, the 40 is likely a better choice than the 50, and the 60 a better choice than the 70, simply because they are usually 10 to 12 percent less expensive. (In reality though, the 40/50 are usually too small for a 26X, and I think that's even more true for the 26M).

Regardless of these horsepower issues, don't be misguided comparing solely by a weight difference. (Suzuki publishes the DF 70 @ 335#, the DF 60 @ 359# - the difference is liquids & installation stuff. All brands spin their weights like the politicos spin debates! Do you weigh yourself in your jockies, or fully dressed with shoes?) More significantly, engine weight may portend a larger, more powerful block (1300 versus 1000 cc), which can also deliver more amps, more torque, better gearing and quieter performance for longer life. Check this Suzuki Marine page for comparative examples.

I strongly recommend you choose an outboard with a 14" prop, even if you suffer a weight penalty. I also recommend EFI and the lowest possible gearing (note that 2.42 is "lower gearing" than 2.30). I obviously favor Suzuki, but most importantly, choose a dealer that you trust to deliver a quality installation of your motor. Good luck on your new purchases.

The Macgregor warranty applies only to the original purchaser.
So if you're buying a used X or used M, you don't "gots" no warranty!
I purchased a used X myself, so I never had a warranty.
I sleep fine at night.
I'm currently re-powering with a Nissan/Tohatsu 90hp that weighs a mere 315#.

On the otherhand, if you decide to purchase a brand new M from a dealer, the maximum horsepower that the dealer may install (so the experts on this board are tellin' us) is a 70hp.

My recommendation...go with a early production X, restore and re-power it to your liking. If you buy right, you'll have no more than $20K (or so) into it.

An excellent value for a trailerable - sleep aboard - cabin cruiser that sails too!

Bobby - I understand your logic, but why do you recommend an early model X over the late models. Seems like you would want to at least go '98 or later to get the new rudders. Are there other issues such as stronger transom on the older models?

I have a Tohatsu 90hp that weighs 315#, same as the 70 hp

Bob T and I are in the process of repowering with the Tohatsu TLDI 90. We will give our impressions soon.
R

j.dower-the goal for a new user is to "jump-in" somehow. most on this board talk about wishing they had more power than the 50hp. so, for a newbie, get your best buy with an early production x (virtually the same boat in '96 as in '02), clean it up a bit, sell the old two stroke tohatsu that came with it, re-power with a larger engine (new or used), and you have got a vessel that would otherwise cost many thousands more for similar qualities and characteristics.
I see neglected '96-'98's frequently in the $12-14K range. They need TLC, but the original owner who bought it new years ago, now wants out and is willing to take what ever he can get.

Bobby T.-26X #4767 wrote: . . . so, for a newbie, get your best buy with an early production x (virtually the same boat in '96 as in '02), . . . re-power with a larger engine (new or used), and you have got a vessel that would otherwise cost many thousands more for similar qualities and characteristics.
I see neglected '96-'98's frequently in the $12-14K range.

Bobby,
I understood your position when first posted (older boats sell lower) and also understand JD's query. IMO, an underpowered (or ratty) '98 or '99 would be the most cost effective way to get a powersailer. The older rudder brackets are definitely less durable. The closer you get to a '99 is also likely to have the newer steering rack and reconfigured ballast tank w/ forward vent. IMO, those are the most significant of factory changes to seek in a pre-owned boat.

Don't forget the stiffened deck around the windows too....definitely important IMO (especially if you aren't a lightweight). Mark covered the changes pretty comprehensively in this thread.

Thanks all for your help. Now it off to look for good deal on a Eng .
Thanks again . Be back soon Bob

Thanks all for your help. Now it off to look for good deal on a Eng .
Thanks again . Be back soon Bob

Transom Reinforcement and an Evinrude E-tec 90,

what an engine..... cant wait to be able to replace my nissan 50