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Cleaning the grounds got me back enough lights to get the motor recall taken care of. The bottom inch or so of the metal bracket holding the bulbs in place is quite corroded.

For any newbies, I verified this with a meter set on dc volts. Take out the big bulb. With the red lead placed on one of the contacts ( in the plug, of course) and the black on a clean, uncorroded ground, I got 10 volts or so. But moving the black to where the grounding bolt goes yields no voltage.
I wire brushed the hole, and scraped with a razor etc... This brought the left side from 0 to 100% functional. Unfortunately the right side screw is so corroded I will leave well enough alone and take her to the motor guy for the evinrude recall finally.

For younz guys that know I'm a newbie in comparison, here's my plan. Installing the extended goal posts, putting new brake lites near the top of them, and ... possibly running a line from the V block on the trailer to each goal post. I know those have to be a life saver if single-handing. I have launched and anchored solo, but never retrieved YET. But I digress...
I'm thinking and wondering if it's a good idea to run the brake wiring along each ont of those lines. I would velcrow it losely along the rope and then cover them with those noodle pooltoy thingies. (please pardon my technicial terms). page is screwed up oh crud

Ok it posted, sigh of relief.

There's only a couple trailer light mods documented on this site and only a couple guide ropes too. I was wondering if anyone had run their wiring the way I'm considering. OR if anyone had considered it? Or if I'm loco for considering it?? I definately want to keep the lights dry, just wonder if keeping the wires dry too is overkill. Being in saltwater makes me think to go high and dry.

I appreciate any and all comments,
Erik Striker

My OEM lights corroded after 3yrs of fresh water trailering and storing the boat indoors. I replace all my lights with LED lights. Zero maintenance and much brighter. Next is the wiring just incase it is as poor quality and the OEM lights. Also I'm going to use water proof shrinks at any of the joints.

FYI the lighted guide ons from Defender are a definite help with cross currents and or winds. I'm working on a couple of foam blocks that can be slipped over the guide ons which will pinch the hull to keep the stern centered until you are out of the water. The blocks are removed after your out of the water.

Just go to your local big truck dealer parts dept and get the 3" sealed stop and side marker units and the side markers and associated pig tails , Viola', waterproof.



If you buy a trailer unit and cut it in half then mount it sideways the bottom will be open to drain, you will have 1 shell for each side of the trailer and you can get away for about $20

I would really try to avoid lectrics and saltwater, no matter how waterproof the housing is suppsed to be. It's a bit of a pain, but I just run the wire straight over the boat and hang a trailer board off my rudders on top of the outboard. Try getting little rusty screws out!!
I've launched and recovered single handed quite often.. and I've only got one goalpost! and the trailer is on a very shallow slip, so I have to attach it to the car with a 20m rope! Launching I just unhitch and roll her out with a bit of handbrake if it gets too fast. Same rope on trailer to get it out after anchoring. It can be a bitch in a cross wind as it is very exposed, above f4 it's really not doable, so I sit on a hook and wait till the morning.
All good fun!

I hate to say this, but the lights on my 2005 trailer were rusted out when I bought it. The PO had installed a set of magnetic lights that have a separate wiring cable, like the ones that can be bought at auto parts stores. I'm sure it was a challenge to find a set with the proper length cable. Most are not that long. I haven't had the ambition to rewire the trailer, and these lights still work fine. When I launch & retrieve, I remove the magnetic mount lights and put them in the pickup bed.

Just to clarify. What lights are actually required on the trailer? Specifically side light requirements? I know my side lights don't work right now.

Thanks,
Jim

I finally gave up fighting the factory lights a couple years ago. In general I found most often the problem really wasn't the light fixture it self, but in almost every case was the ground connection. I never has corrosion problems inside the fixtures even though I often launched in salt water. It was the corrosion on the trailer at the ground connection that was the issue.

For around $50 I switched to a set of sealed LED lights that came with a full wiring harness that completely eliminates using the trailer frame as a ground. I've not had a single trailer light problem since. Granted I don't have side lights now, but I really don't care, the old ones on the fender bracket rarely worked with the abuse they took in their exposed position. It's quite rare for us to tow at night, I really just wanted stop and turn lights, the reflectors can do the rest. I found one issue with this change, the backup solenoid for my disc brakes relied on the trailer ground to complete it's circuit. Don't forget to address this when you go to a fully wired solution.

Duane,

Thats what I'm looking for, that exact set of lights. I don't want all those grounds either. Yes those little screws were about rusted away on mine. Would you happen to have the vendor for those lights? BTW I love your Allegre and site thanks.

My brother has been in NC with a boat for 10 + years and says the side marker lights aren't required. Hopefully someone else will chime who knows for sure.

thanks,
Erik

Trailer regs actually vary by state. You can see the regs at several web sites. Very few of us have the requisite 3 bulb 'extra wide' light on our boats and often people replace the wider, separate tail/stop lights with single units (myself included) which arent technically correct.

Im a but puzzled with your measurements SeaStriker. You need to check connections on the Ohm scale (resistance) with a DVM - and make sure the power is off on your lights or else you can damage your DVM. Its normal to read 0 Volts on the ground side of the lights.

I changed my trailer lights to LEDs. Less current means less loss in the connections. "I" squared "R" loss causes heat , which quickens the oxidation of the contacts. The filaments in the incondesant lamps suffer from road shock much more than the diodes in the LEDs , also, the lamps don't get as hot so less thermal shock. So far so good. I am changing all of my interior light also. The running lights come next.

Blue Skies