I plan on using plate aluminum for the backing plates...is this ok or should I use another type of material?
Best method for removing overhead liners
Best method for removing overhead liners
I plan on running most of my lines aft. I want to use backing plates on the equipment. If you have an
and installed backing plates, what is the best way to temporarily (re)move the overhead liners. There aren't many liner fasteners and I am worried about liners bending-cracking etc.
I plan on using plate aluminum for the backing plates...is this ok or should I use another type of material?
I plan on using plate aluminum for the backing plates...is this ok or should I use another type of material?
- kmclemore
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Well, I don't know much about the liners on
's, but for backing plates I'd use stainless... it's stronger so you can use thinner pieces than you could with aluminium and still have the same strength and load spreading properties. Plus you're not mixing your metals... stainless hardware + stainless equipment + stainless backing plates = no bivalent corrosion issues.
(edit) Oh, and don't forget to round the edges of any backing plates you make - usually a 1/4" rounding is OK, with 3/8 to 1/2" for larger plates. This will help to prevent stress-cracking at the corners. Where possible, also make the plate larger than the equipment contact area on the other side of the 'glass - this will help to further spread the load.
(edit) Oh, and don't forget to round the edges of any backing plates you make - usually a 1/4" rounding is OK, with 3/8 to 1/2" for larger plates. This will help to prevent stress-cracking at the corners. Where possible, also make the plate larger than the equipment contact area on the other side of the 'glass - this will help to further spread the load.
I'm not sure the backing plates are necessary, although I agree they are not bad either. Check this out at BWY:
http://www.bwyachts.com/web%20catalog%2 ... ft_kit.htm
Talk to them and see how they install the kits.
http://www.bwyachts.com/web%20catalog%2 ... ft_kit.htm
Talk to them and see how they install the kits.
- Chip Hindes
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I don't think it's even possible t to remove the liner without destroying it. Besides, it's totally not necessary.
Almost all the factory hardware, plus everything installed by the dealer were backed with SS fender washers. I've added a number of deck organizers, clutches, etcetera, and used the same. They're not quite as hefty as full backing plates, but I've never had one pull out or even show signs of looseness.
Here's how to do it.
First, get hole saws which match all the standard liner plug sizes.
When you choose the on deck location for the part, try to make sure it is away from important stuff, and hits a flat spot on the inside liner. Mark the locations, then drill a single hole through both deck and inside liner with an extra long, small diameter drill. This serves two purposes. If you try to use a hole saw in the liner with a pilot hole that is larger than the hole saw pilot drill, the hole saw will wander and make a mess. Second, if you don't like where it comes through inside, repair will be relatively easy. Hasn't happened to me yet, but I'm sure it will someday.
Then go inside and check the location. If it's OK, go back outside and repeat with the small diameter drill for the rest of the holes. Then go back inside, and using the small diameter hole as pilot, use the smallest size hole saw which will pass the correct size fender washer to core out the liner. Finally, go back outside and drill the mounting holes with the correct size drill.
Put a generous dollop of PL5200 on the mounting location. Install the harware with fasteners. Go inside and add the fender washer and a nylok nut to each fastener, and tighten. Obviously you need a helper for this part. Then simply pop in a new liner plug.
Another tip. I got tired of paying exorbitant West Marine prices for SS fasteners, so I bought a box 100 of each common size screw, bolt, fender washer and nylok nut from an industrial supply house. I buy the screws, bolts etcetera, the longest size I think I'll need. It's pretty easy to cut them shorter with a hacksaw or Dremel. Cutting them longer is tougher. I still occasionally need to buy the oddball fastener from WM, but overall I've saved a ton of money, and I almost never need to stop in the middle of a job to run out and buy fasteners.
Almost all the factory hardware, plus everything installed by the dealer were backed with SS fender washers. I've added a number of deck organizers, clutches, etcetera, and used the same. They're not quite as hefty as full backing plates, but I've never had one pull out or even show signs of looseness.
Here's how to do it.
First, get hole saws which match all the standard liner plug sizes.
When you choose the on deck location for the part, try to make sure it is away from important stuff, and hits a flat spot on the inside liner. Mark the locations, then drill a single hole through both deck and inside liner with an extra long, small diameter drill. This serves two purposes. If you try to use a hole saw in the liner with a pilot hole that is larger than the hole saw pilot drill, the hole saw will wander and make a mess. Second, if you don't like where it comes through inside, repair will be relatively easy. Hasn't happened to me yet, but I'm sure it will someday.
Then go inside and check the location. If it's OK, go back outside and repeat with the small diameter drill for the rest of the holes. Then go back inside, and using the small diameter hole as pilot, use the smallest size hole saw which will pass the correct size fender washer to core out the liner. Finally, go back outside and drill the mounting holes with the correct size drill.
Put a generous dollop of PL5200 on the mounting location. Install the harware with fasteners. Go inside and add the fender washer and a nylok nut to each fastener, and tighten. Obviously you need a helper for this part. Then simply pop in a new liner plug.
Another tip. I got tired of paying exorbitant West Marine prices for SS fasteners, so I bought a box 100 of each common size screw, bolt, fender washer and nylok nut from an industrial supply house. I buy the screws, bolts etcetera, the longest size I think I'll need. It's pretty easy to cut them shorter with a hacksaw or Dremel. Cutting them longer is tougher. I still occasionally need to buy the oddball fastener from WM, but overall I've saved a ton of money, and I almost never need to stop in the middle of a job to run out and buy fasteners.
- Duane Dunn, Allegro
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Unless I'm missing something, the M headliner is just like the X headliner (except tan instead of white). It is glassed to the upper deck before the deck and hull are joined. There is no way to remove it. It sandwiches the structural foam in place on the late model boats.
You need to use the plastic plugs just like the factory uses. Finding the tan plugs might be harder than finding the white ones. Make sure your planned mounting place has some space between the headliner and the deck structure. Not everywhere has space for washers, nuts, and plugs.
Just use stainless fender washers to back up whatever you attach.
You need to use the plastic plugs just like the factory uses. Finding the tan plugs might be harder than finding the white ones. Make sure your planned mounting place has some space between the headliner and the deck structure. Not everywhere has space for washers, nuts, and plugs.
Just use stainless fender washers to back up whatever you attach.
- richandlori
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- craiglaforce
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- Chip Hindes
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My local Lowe's doesn't carry the right size plugs.
Most of the plugs in the liner are either 7/8" or 1 1/2". The 7/8" they have in black, but not white, and the largest they have are 1".
One of the employees did a search and according to him this isn't a fluke. He was unable to had find part numbers for the white plugs in the correct sizes.
Most of the plugs in the liner are either 7/8" or 1 1/2". The 7/8" they have in black, but not white, and the largest they have are 1".
One of the employees did a search and according to him this isn't a fluke. He was unable to had find part numbers for the white plugs in the correct sizes.
