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I need to install jiffy reefing on my 1984 Macgregor 25. Does anybody have specific recommendation on buying a reefing kit, like one from Harken or another manufacturer? Is it better to go with the kit versus buying components? I’d also like recommendations on the sealant to buy once I install fairleads or other items into the deck.

In addition, I recall seeing where one manufacturer recommends installing a device at the mast to contain the slugs so the reefing is more effective. Since I’m not able to weld one like Sumner, is this really necessary and is there another way to do it? I tried using the search to answer these questions but couldn’t find all I wanted.

Thanks in advance for your help.

You'll save money and have a better system if you research the parts you need, then apply your own special needs as well. You might need more faileads then a kit offers. Maybe the kits blocks aren't that great, too big, too small ect.
Just my 2 cents.
The thing that keeps the sail slugs from falling out when you lower the sail is a cheap article readily bought from West or similar place, if that's what you were indeed referring to.
Sealant could be anything, but I prefere life caulk. 5200 I hardly use any more.
Some sealants are not recommended on aluminum. Should say on the tube.
I either use never seize, lock tight or nothing at all if I'm working with holes in aluminum.

Ixneigh

arknoah wrote:I need to install jiffy reefing on my 1984 Macgregor 25. Does anybody have specific recommendation on buying a reefing kit, like one from Harken or another manufacturer? Is it better to go with the kit versus buying components? I’d also like recommendations on the sealant to buy once I install fairleads or other items into the deck.

In addition, I recall seeing where one manufacturer recommends installing a device at the mast to contain the slugs so the reefing is more effective. Since I’m not able to weld one like Sumner, is this really necessary and is there another way to do it? I tried using the search to answer these questions but couldn’t find all I wanted.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Hi,

Nobody has jumped in here yet with info specific to the Mac 25, so I'll offer some advice. If you want more specific advice, please post pictures of your boom and gooseneck and I'll do my best to help. Does your mainsail have slides or a boltrope?

I sail on San Francisco Bay, where winds range from 0 to 25 or 35 knots. I've been reefing and un-reefing for over 30 years, on many different boats with different gear.

Where do you sail? What's your budget for adding reefing?

There are two general approaches. You've got to pick one first and then we can work on the details.

Option 1: All reefing lines lead forward to the mast.

It's a relatively easy project to install the hardware for reefing with lines lead forward.

First you heave-to to get the boat quiet and level and self-steering, even in rough conditions. Then you go to the base of the mast to put in the reef while the boat takes care of itself.

Heaving to is an easy maneuver to learn. Sailors have been heaving to in order to reef for a long, long time -- because it works. Reeing this way works and it's not physically hard to do, especially with the small mainsail of a 26 footer.

For hardware, you will need one line, one block, and one horn cleat for the reef clew. You will need a hook at the gooseneck . And some low stretch line and a small SS ring That's it.

The picture below shows reefing gear for a double reefed mainsail with lines lead forward along the boom. Everything needed for reefing can be reached from a sitting position on the starboard side of the mast, while the boat is on starboard tack. The cleats on the boom are for the aft reefing lines. The gooseneck has a reefing horn attached for the front of the reef. The main halyard is held by a horn cleat on the mast.

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I realize that I haven't described the hardware needed on the aft end of the boom, and I'm running short on time. In brief, you tie the line around the boom, run it up and through the reef cringle, down to a cheek block at the outboard end of the boom, and then forward to the cleat on the boom.

Option 2: Run sail control lines aft to the cockpit.

This is a much bigger project than installing reefing lines at the mast. It's nice to have, but you really don't need to do it. It adds time to rigging too.

If you plan to run the reefing lines aft, you should also run all these other lines (if you have them) to the cockpit, so you're not scrambling back and forth. They also need to be accessible when you reef: main halyard, vang, topping lift, outhaul (so you can ease it when shake out the reef and haul the main back up)

If you're going to run lines aft to the cockpit, double line reefing is more reliable than single line, for a lot of reasons. The key is that you use separate lines for the front and back of the reef, because you're pulling the front of the sail in one direction, and the back of the sail in the other. It's mechanically simpler and more precise than using one line to pull the sail in two different directions. It's less friction so it takes less strength. It's less likely to damage the luff of the sail.

Fair winds,
Judy B

Hi,

I use a Harken single-line jiffy reefing kit and works like a charm; kit came with all I needed. For suggestions on the line going aft you may check my mod posted in this forum: http://macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?view=1450

The knob that stops the slugs from falling off the mast slot holds the reef about 8"from the gooseneck. The line that goes through the reefing point on the leech, really goes through a block tied from the grommet; this makes the sliding of the line and the reefing at the leech much smoother.

Good luck,
Albert
s/v Madelon (Mac 26S)

Installing a Main reefing system for a Trailer Sailer has to have all connections to the boom for fast removal of boom with sail. Many ramps are crouded and time to launch and pull out is priority. I launch and retrive in 12-15 min. with one other person, powerboats are waiting in line to launch and no side parking to setup.
I also am in SW Florida and 6 mo. a year is in high 80's or mid 90's , and you want to get in and out as quick as you can to enjoy AC in truck.
If I know the winds are going to exceed 15 knots I tuck in a reef at setup on the dock or heading out. I can always undo it when the wind calms down in nice condition.
Gent's never sail to windward in harsh winds!
Dave

Madelon wrote:Hi,

I use a Harken single-line jiffy reefing kit and works like a charm; kit came with all I needed. For suggestions on the line going aft you may check my mod posted in this forum: http://macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?view=1450

The knob that stops the slugs from falling off the mast slot holds the reef about 8"from the gooseneck. The line that goes through the reefing point on the leech, really goes through a block tied from the grommet; this makes the sliding of the line and the reefing at the leech much smoother.

Good luck,
Albert
s/v Madelon (Mac 26S)

DaveB wrote:.Gent's never sail to windward in harsh winds! Dave

Does that mean the rest of us have to .

I agree on the need for a fast setup in some situations. Our single line reefing cleats off on the mast and probably takes 30 seconds to rig after attaching the boom to the gooseneck.

The single reef line is on the boom and rigged at the back of the boom. You take the forward end of the reef line and thread it ...



...through the block on the mast. Up and through the block...



...at the reef point and...



.... then cleat it off on the mast. If you want a reef in then just pull the reef in and cleat it off or leave the reef out. You are done in about the same amount of time that it took to read that.

So far we have been blessed with launching at ramps with hardly anyone there, so not much pressure in that regards, But sill I think maybe 30 seconds more to rig with the single line reefing going to the mast and maybe not much more if you had to thread it through a couple more blocks back to the cockpit.

I know one thing and that is we like it in conjunction with the sailpack a lot, lot better than the original reefing. Our mod that was pretty easy and not that expensive is here...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... ng-22.html

I, like Albert like the small blocks at the reef points vs. just going through the grommets there. The blocks really cut down on the friction and make it much easier to pull the sail down tight in wind and just in general. They add $30 to $35 total to the install, but I feel are well worth it.

Hey is it getting cooler down there? Ruth got the boot off one foot today and the other one will be operated on in 2 weeks, so we hope we are still on schedule for getting down there late Jan,

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

If you're going to do a two-line reefing system, is there any reason you can't just take the forward line from one side of the boom, up through the eye, then down to a cheek block on the other side of the boom and back to a clam-cleat just like you do the line on the aft end of the boom? Is there something about that kind of setup that wouldn't work?

I had Sailrite quote exactly the same system. All lines led to the aft end of the boom. The quote was very reasonable. It's buried somewhere in my email. I never had time to install it. This was a slightly simpler design then the full system that Delevi installed a few years ago. Since I trailer I wanted something fairly simple. Also I have three reef points which increased the spagetti factor.

vizwhiz wrote:If you're going to do a two-line reefing system, is there any reason you can't just take the forward line from one side of the boom, up through the eye, then down to a cheek block on the other side of the boom and back to a clam-cleat just like you do the line on the aft end of the boom? Is there something about that kind of setup that wouldn't work?

I initially had the system you just described but I switched to a reefing hook that hooks directly to the cringle. Now I can use it as a cunningham/first reef, or, transplant it to the second or third reef cringle. Since I always hove to on a reef I go to the cabin top to reef the second cringle rather than having a dedicated line for each reef point thus eliminating the bird's nest of multiple lines. I also use a second cheek block to bring the line forward to the cleet so I can work the main halyard and the reefing line pulled/release in tandem.

I have not figured out how to do the second reef without using a second line

Bob

I'd like to make a quick comment on the end of the boom reefing. One reason I wanted to have a reefing system was that I wanted to get away from dealing with the end of the boom. That sucker can be all over the place when you are reefing. If you are at the mast or have lines led to the cockpit you can handle the topping lift, the main halyard and the reefing line from one place.

If you are at the back of the cockpit and might have the bimini in the way or even if it isn't you are trying to catch the boom and then work with the reefing line there. What do you do about the main halyard and the topping lift?

It doesn't seem much better than the original reefing system to me.

If you have two reef points and don't want multiple lines then I see 2 possible solutions.

When we had 2 reef points when we did reef it was usually later than we should of and we went right to the second one. If we still had 2 reef points and only wanted one line I just might put it on the second and use it to pull the sail down, but tie it off like I did before I had single line reefing if I wanted to go to the first reef ...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... ing-8.html

Then if you needed to go to the second reef you would have the reefing line ready to do it.

Another possibility would be to use airblocks....



.. like I'm using above, but don't tie them to the grommet like above. Tie a short line in a loop at the grommets and have a short loop around the block. Connect the two loops with a small carabiner. Either connect the block to the first or second reef if you only wanted to have one ready for the anticipated conditions for the day.

Or start with the blocks hooked to the first reef point. Have a short line with a carabiner or snap hook on the end of the boom where the first reef comes down to at the aft end and another short line with a hook at the mast end or on the mast or use the hook on the gooseneck. Then when needed take in the first reef with your single reef line. Next using the short lines on the boom with the hooks hook the loops at the reef point where the blocks are at this point. Then if it isn't too much of a reach unsnap the reefing blocks and move them up to the second reef loops so that you are ready to take in the second reef if needed using the same line and pull the sail back up with the main halyard. Not sure if this is clear or not,

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

Good ideas, all. Thanks.

I've purchased a reefing kit from Sailcare (Barton) and plan to install it soon. While I do have to purchase a few items, such as a new cleat and some bolts, it is a complete kit, relatively easy directions and doable even for someone who ain't extremely handy. For at least one of the items that is installed on the deck, the kit does not include screws because the thickness of decks can vary. Does anyone know the approximate thickness of the deck for a Mac 25? I'm talking about for an area of the deck adjacent to the mast, and also near the companion way for an additional cleat.

FYI, the kit is for single line reefing (I know, the double line reefing may be better, but...) and I intend to lead the line aft as all other lines on the boat have been led. I just need to purchase taps, and find a rivet gun to borrow (I refuse to buy one of those unless absolutely necessary) and get moving on it!

Finally got it done.

Thanks to all who gave suggestions about my reefing system.. I installed it yesterday .

The kit was manufactured by Barton, a British company, and except for the challenge of matching metric to English (thank goodness for my local TruValue and Lowes), I was able to pull it off, including installing an extra cleat which I’ll need to lead the reefing line to the cockpit. I don’t have a deck organizer yet, and should receive it next week. I do have the cleat lined up just fine for once I get the deck organizer; it didn’t make much sense not take care of them item yesterday.

Of course, I wanted to let the pieces that I installed on the deck take the full 24 hours to cure, but even without that, the wind was non-existent today on the river so I didn’t go out. But when I do, you can bet I’m going to reef the sail just because now, I can!

Now that I have this really neat cordless drill, I wonder what I should do next?

I have single reeding on my , with the line led to the aft end of the boom. I do end up with spaghetti in the cockpit when reefed but I just do a sheeps head with it and it goes away

The backstay on the can be used for this, as well as holding up hammocks, POB pole and a radar reflector....

vizwhiz wrote:If you're going to do a two-line reefing system, is there any reason you can't just take the forward line from one side of the boom, up through the eye, then down to a cheek block on the other side of the boom and back to a clam-cleat just like you do the line on the aft end of the boom? Is there something about that kind of setup that wouldn't work?

It wouldn't work if you install the reefing line exactly as you describe. The reefing line must pull the reef eye forward towards the mast as well as down towards the boom. The aft reefing line pulls aft and down The forward reefing line has to pull forward and down. Together, the two lines pull the reefed foot of the sail taut and flat, so it is depowered as much as possible.

But it will work with one small change to what you propose. You could attach a line on the mast, pass it though the reef cringle, and then back to mast to a cleat on the mast. A reefing line run like this can and does pull the sail foward and down, flattening the reefed foot.

There is a good reason that the front of the sail has to be pulled forward: it can and does rip the slides or bolt rope out of the luff (front) of the mainsail unless you get the luff secured up against the mast.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

Judy B

Thanks Judy...

As I was reading your post, I was thinking...the slides keep the sail up against the mast along it's whole length...so when reefed, the aft reef line will pull the foot tight against the slides just like the outhaul does against the slides on the foot when not reefed. So I wasn't sure I followed why you said it had to pull forward also.

Then as I got to the end at the end of your post, you say that it can rip the slides or bolt rope out of the front...but wouldn't it do that with or without being reefed?

I guess I don't understand why it would be okay to pull the reef cringle down to the hook and hook it there, nothing pulling forward on that, and the slides are still all that are holding the sail to the mast with the cringle hooked - but then it would not be okay to make a rope do the same thing...pull the cringle down to almost exactly the same point as the hook is, and turn the rope through a cheek block instead of hooking the cringle to the reefing hook? I guess I thought it would be okay because it was doing essentially the same thing to the mast as when you bring the cringle to the hook... Does that make sense?