MacGregorSailors.com

I am in the process of attempting to buy a new tandem axle trailer. I thought aluminum would not have any rust problems, but apparently that is not the case. So an all-steel trailer is now again a possibility.

I have read in this forum warnings about upgrading the standard Mac trailer. There is a saying "Don't throw good money after bad." Hence, the search for a new trailer, instead of upgrading, has started.

My problem is one of geography. The Loadrite model that others have bought and are happy with, is manufactured in eastern US, a terribly long way from home for me. The northern state of Washington, and the province of British Columbia is within reach. I have made yearly trips to this NW area with my single axle. Has anyone has purchased a new trailer for their Mac in this NW area?

Phil M

If such a thing existed, a welded all-aluminum would be the best bet presuming you want the lowest possible decay rate and light weight. If the axles were a coated SS that are U-Bolted on with some sort of non-conductive barrier gasket such as a rubber pad, you'd get a long-lasting surface. I don't know if they make aluminum draw-bars however--I rather doubt it.

Your next best bet would be a steel trailer that is hot-dip galvanized SS after it's been put together. Galvanizing does three very important things to SS: It creates a steel-zinc surface alloy that is actually harder than both metals, which is why it resists chipping unlike other coatings, it stops oxidizing as soon as there's a zinc-oxide layer on the exterior unlike steel where rust promotes further rust, and it provides a less noble surface metal that will take all the galvanic corrosion until it's completely worn off.

The problem even with an all-steel trailer is that all fasteners are SS--but keep in mind that marine-grade SS is more noble than lower grade structural steel and so you will get a low rate of SS to SS galvanic corrosion. This (and typical rust) is likely what happens to the original Mac trailers.

Galvanized bolts do exist and are cheap. If all the aluminum-steel joinery on the trailer was replaced with galvanized bolts, you'd get much longer life out of the stock trailer because the bolts would take the corrosion rather than the frame. Of course you'd have to inspect every season and replace bolts at the first sign of significant corrosion because you're essentially treating structural members as zincs. But you'd at least have a method that could keep corrosion at bay indefinitely. Then you could just have the draw bar galvanized and plan on replacing the axle every five years and you'd be set.

Frankly, having lived for four years aboard a ship that had a stainless steel hull and an aluminum superstructure, I think you're best bet is to clean, prevent, inspect, and prepare to replace. I honestly don't think the corrosion problem with boat trailers will be solved until someone comes up with the skills and bills to build a carbon-fiber frame. If the Navy hasn't figured out how to prevent galvanic corrosion and rust, I think we stand little chance of doing it here.

Might want to check with Sandy in Spanaway. He runs an ad on this website that you can look at here:

http://macgregorsailors.com/cgi-bin/pho ... AdNum=1935

~Rich

There you go

Rick

Phil M wrote:....I have read in this forum warnings about upgrading the standard Mac trailer. There is a saying "Don't throw good money after bad." Hence, the search for a new trailer, instead of upgrading, has started.....

I'm not sure I buy the above statement. If you have to hire all of the upgrades then I'd look new. If you have a welder and/or a friend that does then I'd consider using the old one as a base unless it is really shot.

One key to keeping the rust down is staying out of salt water. Where you live that should be doable and if you are only going to the coast a few times then it is still doable. In fresh water I think the key is a good paint and I don't mean rustoleum over the old paint. We had our trailer media blasted for under $300 down to bare metal and then used a good epoxy paint, 2 coats, on the bare metal and an acrylic enamel paint over the epoxy. If you buy a new steel trailer I doubt they will have an epoxy primer on it. If you can ask for that I sure would.

While the trailer is down to bare metal now is the time to add things like bunk supports, centerboard supports and anything else you want to really have a custom trailer that will suit your needs. We considered buying a new trailer, but I'd already had done so much to the original one that we liked that it didn't make much sense buying a new one that didn't have those features and would all have to be added to it also, so I started with the original one...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... index.html

Now we have a good trailer that I'll take anywhere and it has many more features than wouldn't be on a manufactured trailer. Once more, I think the key to making a trailer last is a good epoxy primer and as others have said maintenance over time. Summit Racing has good pricing on the paint and ships,

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

Hamin' X wrote:Might want to check with Sandy in Spanaway. He runs an ad on this website that you can look at here:

http://macgregorsailors.com/cgi-bin/pho ... AdNum=1935

~Rich

Okay, thanks.
Can I assume you own one and you are happy with it? Or, has anyone purchased one of these trailers?

Phil M

I do not own one, so cannot comment one way, or the other on them. Quite happy with my factory trailer.

~Rich

Sumner wrote:
...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... index.html

Now we have a good trailer that I'll take anywhere and it has many more features than wouldn't be on a manufactured trailer. Once more, I think the key to making a trailer last is a good epoxy primer and as others have said maintenance over time. Summit Racing has good pricing on the paint and ships,

Sum

I have very little rust on my original trailer, but I also noticed your shop space and shop tools (especially the welder) and shop know-how. Your finished trailer looks nothing like mine. So, how much do you charge per trailer?

Phil M

Phil M wrote:.... Your finished trailer looks nothing like mine. So, how much do you charge per trailer?

Phil M

Not much , the only problem is I'm probably booked to the end of this lifetime with my own junk .

I have a lot of tools and a couple welders now as I learned a long time ago that in the long run buying them and stumbling through learning to use them was cheaper and more convenient than taking the work to someone else. I don't think there has ever been a tool that I regretted buying. I built a lot of stuff with a used $75 arc welder. I'll bet one could still find one of those that cheap or maybe about free as everyone wants a mig or tig now. Thousands of things have been built with cheap 200 amp AC arc welders and a trailer project is a good one to use one on.

Go for it, winter isn't quite here yet and I lived in Wyoming for about 30 years without a garage, so I know all about that. If you aren't sure about your welding tack it together and pull it down to a welder for the finish welds. That would be cheap as that is the quick part of the fab work,

Sum

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Our MacGregor S Pages

Mac-Venture Links

I just bought a trailer from Sandy in Spanaway. He is a dealer for Venture trailers. It is a great trailer. He is fast too. My Mac trailer broke in half and he had a new one ready for me in less than a week

I mentioned the Navy and corrosion in an earlier reply. This is sad:

http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2011/07 ... _ppc_wired

Brand new ship falling to pieces because nobody in the design process thought about galvanic corrosion.

You might try http://www.ezloader.com. The have dealers all over North America. I've used one of their trailers for a smaller sailboat and found it perfectly satisfactory. I see they also make trailers for the EU market in case you want to ship your rig overseas. Good luck.

One way to prevent galvanic corrosion is to apply paint or place a barrier (polypropylene tape 1.7 mils minimum thickness) where the two different metals meet.



Scott