Mast rake and backstay adjuster

[ualpow]

I want to make my backstay adjustable so I was thinking of cutting it and crimping an eye on the end. Then using my original mainsheet attached to the original backstay strap for the adjuster and getting a new mainsheet possibly with a ratchet block???? Any advice on this? Has anyone used a ratchet block on their mainsheet?
I was also thinking about putting an eye strap on the port side and a block on the lower end of the shortened backstay. Then running the adjuster line through the block to the port side strap.That would give me a backstay adjuster that pulls the mast straight instead of of to starboard. Any advice on this mainsheet/backstay adj?

When I make my new forestay, should I shorten it to reduce mast rake? And if so, is there a certain length to shorten it?

[bscott]

I cut 4' off my backstay and use a 4:1 Garhauer tackle. Your stock main sheet will work--check to see if you can change cam cleat locations to give you the best way to cleat the sheet. If you go with a split BS, be careful because the port stay will hit the helm seat when lifted. If you go split you have to cut an inspection hole to access the new mounting tang's thru bolts.

The ratchet main sheet works great if you hand hold the sheet--I've used Harkens on my race boats--pricey and probably overkill for the

Bob

[Ivan Awfulitch]

Here's an easy way to go about it from Blue Water. Complete kit allows you to add a block tensioner with a new backstay.
http://bwyachts.com/web%20catalog%20312 ... sioner.htm

[ualpow]

Looking through my spare parts bucket I found 2 fiddle blocks although neither has a cam and cleat on it. All I need is a fiddle with a cam and cleat and I'm in business. I have the tools, sleeves and thimbles to shorten the backstay. Just have to make sure it doesn't interfere with my bimini. What does everyone do to contain all these lines I have in the cockpit? Bags?

[DaveB]

The Johnson quick release lever does the same, you don't need a adjustable backstay like you mentioned.
One can do a Y connection to center back stay. This is done by useing a yoke 5 ft. up the backstay.
This will probably require 2 Johnson's quick realease on both attachments and a Port shroud plate on Port side on a X and to do that you will need to drill in side for mounting bolts and plastic cover plates. This area has a seperate interior fiberglass plate that will limit access.
I would't recommend it as if Roger thought a split Backstay , he would have built it.
Anyone installing a outboard motor mount on a MacX on Port side will come accross this problem.
The best system is to have the Johnsen at the head stay, this will require a shorter headstay but will pin your headstay with proper tension, will also allow better view by raiseing headsail height.
The Johnson lever does best for cost if on the backstay, if you are changeing your headstay go with the Johnson Lever with a 5/32 headstay.
The tension on the 5/32 compared to the 1/8 stock is so close ,but wear and streach is big diffrence on the headstay with roller furler.
The less wire bend, better windward performance. That only comes with less streach in 5/32 wire.
Tuneing rigging is much the same just headstay 5/32 over stock 1/8 will give you much more .
Here is another problem, lets assume you are going down wind with 15-18 knots winds doing 6.1-6.4 Knots . The wind now clocked up to 20 knots gusting to 26 knots. You are now doing 6.6 knots at surfing at 7.1.
Boat needs that Backstay to balance the boat.

Dave

Here's an easy way to go about it from Blue Water. Complete kit allows you to add a block tensioner with a new backstay.
http://bwyachts.com/web%20catalog%20312 ... sioner.htm

[ualpow]

I finally got a friend to help this injured guy raise the mast with the new rigging. I never checked the mast angle since buying my last year. I only checked the safety of the turnbuckles and and general look over the standing rigging. This winter I made new upper and lower shrouds and had riggingonly make a new forestay. Well we raised the mast with the shrouds at the furthest out hole. To get it close I put a level on the mast bracket and on the deck next to the mast bracket and lowered the trailer jack to get it level. Then I put the angle indicator on the front of the mast and adjusted the turnbuckle to it's shortest. The mast is raked back 3-4 degrees and the shrouds are pretty tight. (waiting for cable tensiometer from work to tension the rig.) The shrouds and forestay are the same length as the ones I took off but the adjusters were 2-3 holes down before. I wonder how much rake I had before I did this? I did notice the the upper shroud straps were not facing straight down, I tightened them angled a little back but didn't have time to raise the mast back up and try again. Given the approx 2.5" length of the straps, it wouldn't take much of an angle to lose 1/8-1/4 inch of shroud length. Of course the first time I sailed they would probably straighten out and I would lose my rig tension.
I am going to leave the rake at the 3-4 degrees until I get it in the water and see how it sails. I can then compare the rake on the trailer with the real world condition in the water with full ballast. If a few degrees can make a difference it seems it would be a constant battle to get it right depending on crew quantity/weight/location, beer quantity etc. I can always remove the swageless eye at the top, cut the forestay and reassemble it if I need less rake.

[ronacarme]

Several years ago i removed the stock perforated plate adjuster unit from the backstay and directly substituted a simple open body turnbuckle, which I usually run loose and only occasionally tighten to add a bit of mast bend to flatten the main a bit. The backstay on our X is not involved in holding up the mast so the turnbuckle is not much stressed.
Ron

[ualpow]

UPDATE: Had two friends meet me at the boat for adjusting rig tension today. I ended up buying the loos pt-1 (gyroplanes, dlanderson, divecoz let me know if you want to use it). We raised the mast with shrouds at the end of their adjustment. Brought the upper and lower shrouds to "just tight" and adjusted forestay turnbuckle to get a mast angle of 93 degrees from the deck next to the mast crutch. (will check again once its in the water and loaded for my average sail day)
Unpinned the forestay and adjusted the rig (with my diy c-clamp vise grip adjuster, a very easy tool to make thanks to this forum) a few times to get a reading of 31 or 360lbs on the uppers, 30 or 335lbs on the lowers and 20 or 220lbs on the forestay. This works out to 13% of MBS on the uppers, 12% MBS on the lowers and 12.4% MBS on the forestay according to the riggingonly 316 wire chart. The mast is plumb left to right but I didn't measure the bend. I still have some adjustment left in the forestay turnbuckle so I can bring the rig tension up a little if I need to.
I know I will have to sail her and tweak the tension to get it just right but does anyone see anything wrong with my results?
Oh, this was done without the CDI furler installed if it matters.

[K9Kampers]

If you're ever without a Loos gauge, there is another way to measure stay tension...

[ualpow]

That is too funny! That is the picture I sent to my two coworkers. I told them this is what I ordered. One of them said that's the device for relieving tension...

[Divecoz]

Though I Really Like K-9's Version of a loos.. The wife would get about 85% in the divorce.. so which Loos unit are you OTHER guys using.. ( model Number)

[DaveB]

Johnson backstay adjuster, West Marine Model 246175 (but like the previous post version ) Part 15-212 , $32.
Dave

Though I Really Like K-9's Version of a loos.. The wife would get about 85% in the divorce.. so which Loos unit are you OTHER guys using.. ( model Number)

[RJG 26S]

My adjuster is certainly less interesting than K9Kampers'

I measured 10 times and cut once and ground smooth the metal strip attached to the stay so that it was the right length for a turnbuckle.



Bob

[DaveB]

This works much better.

http://www.downwindmarine.com/Johnson-Q ... 90707.html
Dave

My adjuster is certainly less interesting than K9Kampers'

I measured 10 times and cut once and ground smooth the metal strip attached to the stay so that it was the right length for a turnbuckle.



Bob

[Sumner]

This works much better.

http://www.downwindmarine.com/Johnson-Q ... 90707.html
Dave
.

We went a little higher to the ....



....14-210..

http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00032.htm

.... since we had gone up to the 5/32'n forestay and all 5/16" pins and such. A little over-kill, but it has all worked great. It is a little longer than the 2 on the page you posted a link for and that could be a problem if one wasn't moving their forestay up the mast, but as you mentioned Ruth and I like the forward vision under the sail now.

Our mod is here...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... ng-24.html

Sum

Our MacGregor 26-S

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links