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Does anyone know how many tubes of 5200 I need to install the rubrail on a 26X? I was thinking 6.
Thanks
Brian

Is 5200 the correct adhesive for a rubber rubrail?

I have an explanation in the archives here somewhere, but I used 3/4 of a tube of Liquid Nails, from HDepot, less than $2.00 for a big tube. It has held up for 4 years or so. In my opinion, what I did was sufficient. I made sure the top-deck to hull joint was tight, dry, and waterproof. ( I painted the joint with gelcoat) Then I stretched the rub rail, after it was warm, all the way around, with dabs of Liquid Nails every 6 inches or so and a good size dab under the two white 'caps' at the stern. I levered two by fours against the two white caps and let it sit for two days. (No screws needed) It is tight as a drum and looks fine. My theory, which hold true for my boat, is that the rub rail is NOT for waterproofing, It is only for "rubbing" against docks and other boats and protecting the hull joint. {Bill at the Macgregor factory disagrees and waterproofs with some type of caulk the entire upper joint a the point it touches the upper hull} I think this breeds problems, if the upper joint develops a leak, as it will eventually, and water sits and festers inside the rubrail. With my method, as I wash the boat, the water slides down the rub rail and out the bottom of the rail, keeping the rub rail from collecting water. Anyway, I am a contrarian and an engineer and tend to overthink everything and do what engineers do, and that is do it cheaper, quicker and better as we are lazy folks.

I think what Opie said is just fine - - - - but be prepared that replacing the rub rail is a long, hard, frustrating job

Rick

Brian,
Look at this .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4Ib9j47 ... 4DBDDF81AA

Do the Spot with 3m 5200 fast cure every 2 ft.(5200 comes in 24 hr and 7 day cure)

Dave

BNG wrote:Does anyone know how many tubes of 5200 I need to install the rubrail on a 26X? I was thinking 6.
Thanks
Brian

Hey! I know 'Captain Mark'.... His X is in the marina here in Saint Cloud. Been sailing and puttering around on the lake with him a few times.

Last time we went out with both our boats we had just left anchor and he decided to cool off...He killed his engine and dove off the back... Too bad he forgot to grab a line first as the current quickly swept his boat away from him and there was no way he was ever going to catch-- even if he did know how to swim

Anyway, it took me a bit to realize he was in trouble and I threw my into reverse and steered toward him while he yelled about not being able to tread water too long. Nearly broke his ribs as a didn't slow down enough before I turned of the Suzuki and he slammed right into the starboard stern, just outside the rudder and grasping it's line for dear life. He didn't think it too funny when I said I was claiming salvage rights on that nice stuck in the reeds over there....

I like Mark; he's funny. Now I know he'll have to come in here and laugh about my screw ups

~K

I used 4200 when replacing the rub rail on our X. Took about 2 caulk gun tubes. I used a bit more as I sealed along the entire seam after cleaning and prep work were done. Before you start, when you order the new rub rail (you'll need 50 ft, available from Bluewater Yachts) make sure that you order two new fiberglass caps for the back. This way, you don't have to worry about getting the existing ones off without breaking. I chipped mine in the process, but didn't realize they sold them when I ordered the rail. Make sure you install it on a warm, sunny day, preferably in the sun as it'll make it a lot easier. We ran a continuous bead along the top of the seam, then pulled the rubber up and over sealing it completely. All I can say is that we always had water in all the side bilges before the replacement, and they've stayed dry since (and last summer was the wettest summer/year on record with 18 inches of rain from June-August alone). A search of the forums will give you much more information, and I have posted detailed step-by-step directions.

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... nt#p149006

This looks like its going to be one of those fun jobs. I like the idea of not caulking the top edge. May look better.

I was able to save my two caps. Just finished a two-day job of scraping all the old crap off. What a PITA. Just waiting for the warm day now to stretch and re-install. Thanks to everyone for the guidance and videos.

What adhesive are you planning to use. are you going to run a bead of caulk on the top seam/edge?

I'm going with the 5200 the whole length. I had a 6" rip on the starboard side and after that happened, my leaks got worse. When I yanked off the whole rail, they got worse again. If I didn't see it for myself, I wouldn't believe that so much water could come in from the rub rail. I was convinced it was all coming from an old ballast plug under sail and heeled over, so I replaced that with a vent tube to the head over the winter, but my bilge actually started filling up over the winter with a full tarp over it. The tarp had a few holes, but the water found its way to the rub and into the bilge.

One question just in the blind:
My rubrail is still looking good, almost no scratches on it . As I have water in the bilge too I´m thinking about just sealing the gap between the rubrail and deck from above with some kind of sealant. I´m wondering if anybody has done this before, which result?

Rainer

Don't even consider useing calking at the rubrail, chances are your chainplates need silicon or other fastners. Hull to deck is originally put togeather with 3m5200 and thru bolt every 6 inches.
If you do have a deck to hull leak it was because manifacture didn't seal it properly of you had a hard bump at the pileing and broke the seal.
Dave

2BonC wrote:One question just in the blind:
My rubrail is still looking good, almost no scratches on it . As I have water in the bilge too I´m thinking about just sealing the gap between the rubrail and deck from above with some kind of sealant. I´m wondering if anybody has done this before, which result?

Rainer

DaveB wrote:If you do have a deck to hull leak it was because manifacture didn't seal it properly of you had a hard bump at the pileing and broke the seal.
Dave

Dave, thank You for the answer. I´m aware of all (?) the sources for bilgewater and did something against them.
As I´m not sure that I always have avoided bumps a leak between deck and hull might be the source of my bilgewater. Wouldn´t accurately sealing the rub rail against the deck cure this, can this make anything worse?
accurately
rainer

My favorite leak to track down was through the mast light connector. I switched it out to one with a threaded cap.